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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
  
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Did you remove the 3 wires from back of radio ? That was part of the 0000 loom ?
CCF .. Don't touch the amp setting .. Just adjust these
Faultmate Bluetooth settings
in infotainment change these setting
Voice Control - fitted with voice control ( hosted via the multi-media module )
Microphone - fitted with a microphone
Cellular Telephone - cellular telephone docking station , with bluetooth
Bluetooth - bluetooth enabled ( should already be like this )
Multi Media Module (HLDF) Manufacturer Mode - landrover mode G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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 1st May 2014 8:55 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
  
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| three pins still in connector but conductors cut |
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Regarding the 3 pins from the 0000 loom, yes, I did cut the 3 associated conductors so that the loom is not attached at all to the connector shell any longer.
The 3 pins, each with about a 6 inch length of conductor are however still attached to the connector body.
I could not figure out how to remove the pins from the connector. I presumed that one inserts from the red coloured end, a narrow thin shaft into each of the adjacent perimeter openings associated with the pins, (not the wiring end). I attempted to remove the pins, but I could not get any of the three pins to release. I did presume cutting each of the conductors of the 3 non connected pins would be electrically the same as removing the pins from the connector shell.
Regarding the Faultmate CCF setting, I see that of the list above, I have the Multi Media Module (HLDF) Manufacturer Mode wrong. I will change it to Land Rover mode. I would not have figured that out myself.
Your post is much appreciated; also please let me know if it is OK for the 3 pins to remain within the connector. If not, I will find an appropriate pin removal tool. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 1st May 2014 1:48 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| Pin extraction tool for AMP connectors |
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It would appear that the black plastic male connector that feeds into the rear of the "radio" with the red pin locking end is an AMP product.
If turns out that similar connectors are on the 0000 loom and I see the letters AMP moulded into a couple of the connectors, plus the number 5034 stamped into the black plastic of the male connector with the red locking end and 4405 stamped into a female black body with red flat interior pin holder/lock.
I would like to purchase a pin extractor, (square hollow pins on the male; flat pins on the female connectors sections) but I really do not know what AMP calls these connectors, and hence cannot figure out what extractor I need.
By fooling around with a pin extractor I do have, I was able to remove a couple of the square pins from the male body and see U5 stamped on each pin. The reason I want the pin extraction tool is that while I was able to remove a couple of the pins, I am not certain how I did it.
One time, I removed the pin by inserting a flat generic extractor in the wiring end and another time, from the opposite end. I think the proper way is via the end where the red locking piece inserts and not from the wire end, hence the proper tool would be of real value.
I have cut the three conductors that feed into the radio plug from the 0000 cable but the pins and about 6 inches of conductor are still in the male radio plug and I think I should remove the pins rather than leaving them in along with the 6" pigtails.
I did modify the CCF this morning as above but still have no radio audio; Bluetooth works good, but radio, not.
I will continue to study the CCF as I think there is an obscure setting elsewhere that is blocking the radio audio. The audio is there as I hear it for a few seconds at engine start and then the phone connected default takes over - it is kind of like I am pushing the phone button on the right bottom of the radio just after engine start so the radio plays for a few seconds and then the phone display takes over. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 2nd May 2014 12:13 am |
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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
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Have you changed the amp setting back to what ever it was ?
You can leave the 3 pins as long as the wires are taped up and don't touch each other or ground G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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| 2nd May 2014 12:45 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| Amplifier setting is AUD4 |
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Prior to any CCF changes that I have made, the amplifier setting has always been AUD4 which shows as 29%. I have left it that way.
I did wonder about it however as AUD2C shows as 52% so I wondered what was so special about my setup.
At any rate, the CCF shows AUD4 right now but I can change that if you think it to be worth trying.
On a related matter perhaps, I did also wonder about the Rear Seat Entertainment DVD Player Fitment.
I have the Rosen factory DVD player hanging from the roof however the CCF shows DVD player not fitted. This setting is 99% so maybe it is normal or does not matter.
Also for Rear Seat Entertainment Interface Module Fitment, that shows Interface module not fitted and is again 99%. As to if I actually have that module, I do not know.
I have the 4 headphone sockets fitted in the rear as well and they show as 27% if that means anything.
I am puzzled at the moment and yes, I taped over the ends of the three conductors. I made certain there were not any stray ground shield conductors touching the centre conductor of that coax; I pealed the ground shield back prior to the black 3M electrical tape. Thanks for the clarification. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 2nd May 2014 1:21 am |
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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
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The Rosen unit is not a factory got as such .. So ignore the RSE stuff
I would write back the original CCF ( if you kept a copy ) then see what works or what dosent .
Alternatively try a hard reset G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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| 2nd May 2014 9:36 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| Yes, have the original CCF. |
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I will try the hard reset first and yes, I have the original CCF on file so I can work back from that.
The hard reset is an interesting tool. I recall the time my alternator was replaced, the radio audio quit and a hard reset restored it. There was no apparent reason why an alternator replacement would kill the audio but it did.
I will ignore the Rosen thing; that is a bit of a relief as that eliminates a variable.
I will update the thread when I get the radio audio going again; at least I have the Bluetooth working so that is progress. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 2nd May 2014 12:07 pm |
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spb
Member Since: 07 May 2010
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 201
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I've been messing around with items on the most bus for a few days, and one of the symptoms of issues with the fibre loop is no audio.
For example, I was fitting a TMC module which I added into the loop with the kind help of a cable from Wiggs.... forgot to reconnect the power cable to the D4 bluetooth module I have fitted and got no audio.... as well as no BT obviously 
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| 2nd May 2014 5:49 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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Initially, I figured maybe I did not have power to the D4 module or that it was intermittent or something.
As such, I took 12VDC from the accessory plug and applied that to the D4 module; also I confirmed that I had the + and - to the correct pins but nothing changed.
Odder yet, the Bluetooth working very well, in fact too well, as the system seems to have defaulted to the phone mode. As such, I figure the problem is software settings rather than hardware.
I know the radio still works as right at initial startup of the engine after all has gone to sleep, radio sounds come out of the speakers and the frequency shows on the radio display as all should but only for a few seconds and then the phone mode appears, just as if I had pushed that button on the bottom right of the radio.
I figure it is some setting that I have in the CCF file so I am making changes in the CCF one by one so to speak.
I appreciate your support as I think I have something simple set wrong but I cannot figure out what it is.
I assume in your CCF the NAV shows as Land Rover mode; mine was set at Denso Mode so per Wiggs, I changed to LR mode but that has not seemed to make any difference. I have the HSE version with the high end audio amp and the like. My CCF amp setting is AUD4 whatever that means and I have not changed it.
Any further thoughts you may have would be appreciated. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 2nd May 2014 6:23 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| C2115-10 yellow wire is MUTE on IHU but radio now good. |
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I now can now make the radio play music etc, so I like to think I am making progress, but of course I am still puzzled and have another question.
As I could not get the radio to play, I rehooked up the 0000 harness, (well part of it), and the radio audio functioned again as normal plus the D4 Bluetooth continued to work well.
Re the 0000 harness, the parts I reconnected were the second mike, the XVD500021 rectangular module, the ignition 12VDC to the lighter socket and the three conductors going into the back of the IHU (radio) connector, C2115. Then one at a time, I removed pieces, one at a time, to see what was needed and what not.
Hookup of the second mike connector was not required. This indicated that Voice Recognition and Voice Dialling are now going thru the primary mike which is as it should be.
The ignition 12VDC power is required however.
The XVD500021 rectangular module is also still required.
Of the three conductors feeding into the rear of the radio, only one of them is required; the yellow coloured conductor leading into C2115-10. By looking at the wiring diagram for the 0000 kit, it calls up pin C2115-10 in the back of the radio as MUTE. (This makes sense, if anything does.) The other end of the MUTE conductor connects to the XVD500021, and at that end, the pin is marked as C3098-2 and also labelled MUTE.
What appears to be happening is ignition power from the cigarette socket wiring feeds to the XVD500021 and then thru to pin C2115-10, the MUTE input on the radio. It would appear that continuous power is required on the C2115-10 radio pin to keep the music coming out of the vehicle speakers.
To confirm, I attached two voltmeters, one on the cigarette lighter ignition source and the other on the yellow conductor going into pin C2115-10. The ignition source showed about 12.2 VDC as expected, but the C2115-10 showed about 2 volts less, 10.2 VDC. It therefore seems that the circuitry within XVD500021 is soaking up 2 volts or so.
In summary, as a work around, that 2 volt difference seems to preclude me from just running ignition power directly to pin C2115-10 as I do not know the limits of the MUTE pin circuitry within the radio. I do not know if the radio mute pin circuitry can take 12 to 14 volts and the usual voltage spikes plus the mute function on many radios is often to take the pin to ground. Since the pin seems to want volts, it may be that the XVD500021 circuity protects the radio mute input - I doubt it but....
Of note, when I made a hands free Bluetooth phone call, (or a call came in), the radio audio would self mute but the voltage on the pin remained in the 10 volt range.
Hence the big question is why does my radio need power to the MUTE pin whereas on I presume all other Land Rover radios, the MUTE input need not be connected, let alone powered?
My only guess is that my radio must need a software update to tell it it ignore a lack of power on the MUTE pin.
If so, (and that is the real question), as I have the Nanocom Evolution, I wonder what software download that might be, or is there some button clicking/knob twisting procedure on the radio head to change defaults? 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 3rd May 2014 11:13 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| Page 14 and 18 of radio diagnostic display regarding MUTE |
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I got to looking thru all 18 pages that can show on the radio head display. I found two references to what could be the answer to how to alter the way the unit defaults re the MUTE function.
Once the diagnostic display is showing, I regard Page 1 as where the display shows SW112T and DATE 04.05
(There is a previous screen that shows the radio head part number as VUX500330, but I do not count it here.) Rotating the right knob brings up:
Page 4, which shows something call HLD and then NNV503271 that looks a bit familiar.
Page 14 is of real interest however. Line item 3 on that page shows HU Audio N
Page 18 of also of interest. Line item 4 shows Mute
I figure that one of both of those line items relate to how the radio audio defaults.
I do not however know how to access either of the items and am afraid to play around. I figure that re the page 14 item, that one holds down button 4 on the keypad for some length of time and then rotates the right knob to change the N to something else. Since I am unclear as to a cancel procedure or even what I will find, I am hesitant to experiment.
The same applies to page 18 item 4 - what will display and what do I do with the choices?
The goal of this is that by changing something, it will alter the operation of pin 10 on connector C2115 so that the pin need not see any power to it and that the radio audio will continue to play with pin 10 un powered. This is I believe how the majority of the installed head units operate and for some reason, my head unit is set differently. I am trying to get it like all the others. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 7th May 2014 5:46 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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I appreciated the offer however I think I have all the CCF settings correct as my new Wiggs D4 Bluetooth module is now installed and working very well; also my radio audio is working as it should.
And yes, I did pull all the 0000 harness and connections out - took me closer to all day so I regard you as good.
Once all the the 0000 stuff was removed, while the Bluetooth continued to work well, there was no radio station audio. I tracked the problem down to being that the #10 pin on the C2115 connector required voltage on it.
I then discovered that pin 10 is the radio audio mute; note that I call it "radio audio", as with no voltage on the pin, the Bluetooth works fine and the phone call comes out of the speakers as it should.
Also when voltage is on the pin and a phone call comes in, or I initiate a call, the radio audio self mutes as it should but I note the voltage still remains constant on the #10 pin. In other words, on my radio head, pin 10 has to have ignition power to it all the time.
I think there is an internal setting in the radio head that needs to be changed. Most Alpine radios have a "switch" related to the mode of operation of the MUTE circuit, and since our radio head was manufactured by Alpine, I figure a software switch is hidden there somewhere.
As such, I went thru the radio diagnostic screen and per the post above, discovered two possible places, page 14 and page 18 which might be the settings to change.
If one or both are it however, I do not know what to do so I hoped someone on the board might know what the settings mean and how to change one or either if that is the key to getting my pin 10 to be like all the other LR heads - no voltage required on it and no wire connected to it.
Then I can truly get rid of the last vestige of the 0000 setup.
Again, thanks for the reply. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 8th May 2014 1:24 am |
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chrisc754
Member Since: 22 Apr 2014
Location: Hungerford
Posts: 4
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I have the original D3 Bluetooth in MY06. Auto pairs each time but no contacts or call register etc on screen.
I'm definitely interested in a swap for either an updated D3 module or, if cost is not prohibitive, a D4 module.
Wiggs, your exchange website says you are on hols until the 19th. grateful for any info/costs you can PM me on your return. 
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| 12th May 2014 12:40 pm |
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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
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Will pm you G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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| 12th May 2014 2:34 pm |
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