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Oli1m
Member Since: 03 Jul 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 63
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Barnie,
Thanks for you comment. I only added two tubes as it was the recomended amount to add to it, it is the first time i have used it anyway.
Am i correct in thinking that the ATF and engine coolant run in the same rad, but after time they can leak and merge. The oil that came out did not show signs of water contamination.
Have you any other hints, that would be of any use?
Thanks again!
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28th Feb 2013 1:36 pm |
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Oli1m
Member Since: 03 Jul 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 63
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I can see that you have a separate rad for your ATF, does it have any other advantages i.e. for towing?
How much does something like this cost if you don’t mine? Also would you do this before changing the TC or gear box?
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28th Feb 2013 1:39 pm |
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Barn1e
D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
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Oli1m wrote:
How much does something like this cost if you don’t mine? Also would you do this before changing the TC or gear box?
PM on the way. The ATF and coolant share the same rad. You can see where the ATF tubes enter top right of rad, near to the FBH. I dont think you will see any water in the ATF. The best way to check is have it tested for glycol (which is the antifreeze in the water). Auto transmission specialists should be able to do the test.
There are various threads on the benefits and disadvantages of a separate ATF. Some would recommend a rad change, others the separate ATF. I cant say that I have seen any downside. 2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
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28th Feb 2013 5:26 pm |
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KOOS BEST
Member Since: 14 Feb 2010
Location: Mtunzini
Posts: 122
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Barn1e wrote:Oli1m wrote:Dr. Tranny as done the job! put two tubes in with the ATF last night and has not slipped since!
You should think about the underlying cause. Quite a few threads about radiator coolant leaking into the ATF. The fix is either a new radiator or separate ATF cooler.
You may find the problem returns as it is water contamination of the plates in the TC that causes the problem. The additive displaces the water that causes the slippage. If the water contamination continues, slippage will return and you may do damage to the plates that more additive cannot correct. I would not add more additive to solve the problem - 1 tube should be enough. adding more may compromise the ATF.
What you got to remember , it's not ALWAYS coolant contamination.
The problem is the clutches in the T/C get's a glaze which causes the slipping. Dr Tranny has successfully fixed the problem with numerous D3's here in Africa.
It has ethers which removes the glaze and that's why the slipping seizes.
I have quite experience on this now. My own gearbox had a terrible shudder , I was quoted by the dealers and ZF that I need a new T/C .
Than I discovered Dr Tranny, but also discarded the Shell 1375.4 oil, and filled my box wit Fuchs atf and 2 x tubes of Dr tranny. It's now 45 000km later smooth as new, towing a trailer touring Africa for a fraction of the cost, no shudder.
Have helped numerous other D3 owners with no problems.
Also 1 x tube DR Tranny added to the Transfer Box stops the knocking sound from the chain when turning sharp to right going up hill.Some D3's suffers from this.
It's an amazing product, it works wonders here in Africa .
The magic red vienna give it a try , 2 x tubes in Gearbox and 1 x in Transfer box
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1st Mar 2013 6:40 am |
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Cam-Tech-Craig
Member Since: 24 Feb 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 419
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Barn1e wrote:Oli1m wrote:
How much does something like this cost if you don’t mine? Also would you do this before changing the TC or gear box?
PM on the way. The ATF and coolant share the same rad. You can see where the ATF tubes enter top right of rad, near to the FBH. I dont think you will see any water in the ATF. The best way to check is have it tested for glycol (which is the antifreeze in the water). Auto transmission specialists should be able to do the test.
There are various threads on the benefits and disadvantages of a separate ATF. Some would recommend a rad change, others the separate ATF. I cant say that I have seen any downside.
Barnie, would you mind sending me those details too please as i have a similar issue i need to address and want to look into cooler replacement costs...
Thank you... Craig 15.5MY XS in Corris Grey with Black & Almond leather
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1st Mar 2013 7:33 am |
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Stu
Member Since: 08 Feb 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2423
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Double flush is in effective in my opinion. I had the same symptoms, did a double flush myself and the problem went away. For about 7-10k miles. Then it came back, had a mega flush done on it by<snip> and it's be fine since, that was about 30,000 miles ago.
This post has been edited by the site administration team D3 HSE MY05 Auto
Expo Rack, Club MTR, LR Spots, A Bar, Light Guards, GNVP Sump Guard, GNVP Ladder, Cup Holders, RLD A Bar brackets. Disco3Club stickers, Aux power on Mod
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1st Mar 2013 10:55 am |
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Oli1m
Member Since: 03 Jul 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 63
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Stu,
That what i did the first time like you was fine for about 5k but then started slipping again, so tried a different approach being dr tranny and oil change.
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1st Mar 2013 11:33 am |
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littleb
Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: Tienen
Posts: 45
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Hi guys,
What is the meaning of ATF .
Thx EGR,s blanked
BAS Remap
Samco intercooler hoses
sold the old DEF 110
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8th Mar 2013 7:06 am |
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maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
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Automatic Transmission Fluid.
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8th Mar 2013 7:35 am |
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kash4747
Member Since: 29 Dec 2012
Location: london
Posts: 3
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Hi all
Been reading all the posts about gearbox shuuder under load as my disco suffering the same symptoms as many members living in SE London i was intrested to here about a compay in Dartford Kent that done the recommended mega flush booked in at a cost of £250 inc VAT for the next day. That was 6 weeks ago no problems since well worth it.So if your having problems i recommend the mega flus @ Dartford Trasmissions
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18th Mar 2013 9:23 pm |
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TdV6Pete
Member Since: 10 Aug 2012
Location: Rutland
Posts: 415
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My rev's bounce up and down when doing a constant speed. Even worse with cruise control on. Also every now and again it judders but i squeeze the throttle and it stops. I just put this down to being an auto as never driven one far before, but do i need to doubleflush or dr tranny it to stop this?
Thanks,
Pete 2inch Lift, 33inch Cooper STTs, Wheel Spacers, Hidden Champion 9000lbs Winch with recovery points, Full Underbody Protection including Rear Bumper Guard, Rock Sliders, Snorkel, 4x4 screen enabled and Sat Nav on the move (thanks to Bodsy), Discreet LED roof lights, LED work light, BAS Re-map and EGR's blanked, V8 Brake upgrade with Grooved, Drilled and Slotted Brakes, Halo Fog Lamps, Roof Rack, 240V Inverter, CB radio and finally a Swing away wheel carrier with Hi-Lift mount...
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18th Mar 2013 9:48 pm |
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maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
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How many miles ?? Had mine 'mega flushed' (double flush is no good as doesn't change enough of the fluid) then added one tube of Dr. T recently to help with the TC slip.
Good as new and smooth as a babies behind
Contact Gordon at 4-Tech. He's based in Wisbech so not that far from you.
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18th Mar 2013 10:50 pm |
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kash4747
Member Since: 29 Dec 2012
Location: london
Posts: 3
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Had no problems with revs bouncing up and down just shudder under load tickling the accelerator helped but the mega flush got it sorted disco has 91000 on it at mo
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18th Mar 2013 11:14 pm |
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TdV6Pete
Member Since: 10 Aug 2012
Location: Rutland
Posts: 415
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125,000 miles. Do you simply top up g'box with the good doctor? 2inch Lift, 33inch Cooper STTs, Wheel Spacers, Hidden Champion 9000lbs Winch with recovery points, Full Underbody Protection including Rear Bumper Guard, Rock Sliders, Snorkel, 4x4 screen enabled and Sat Nav on the move (thanks to Bodsy), Discreet LED roof lights, LED work light, BAS Re-map and EGR's blanked, V8 Brake upgrade with Grooved, Drilled and Slotted Brakes, Halo Fog Lamps, Roof Rack, 240V Inverter, CB radio and finally a Swing away wheel carrier with Hi-Lift mount...
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18th Mar 2013 11:14 pm |
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Barn1e
D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
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Bouncing revs is a sign of slipping IMHO, can occur when not under load. Judder becomes apparent when under load. If you have the slipping, do have the ATF checked for water contamination via a glycol test. Otherwise you may flush the oil, only for the problem to return. Water contamination most likely from leaky radiator which is shared by coolant and ATF.
Even after a flush, you may need the Dr Tranny to restore the friction material that will have been damaged. Catch it early and you can reverse the damage. Add it via the top hose that enters the Rad or ATF cooler if you fit a separate one. Plenty of views on here of merits of new rad or separate cooler. 2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
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19th Mar 2013 3:13 pm |
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