Member Since: 10 Apr 2011
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 82
Help!!! I can't get into my boot!!
Hi guys just wondering what I can do about my boot! I finished a 2 hour journey today and couldn't get into the boot. Despite locking and unlocking the car using the fob and central locking button on the centre consol it won't budge. There doesn't appear to be making any noise when the the central locking is activated. Does this ring any bells with people? Any ideas to get it opening again? Any advice greatly appreciated! Cheers guys
lots of info on here for this common problem ...start here
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic79746.h...2BtailgateCheers Ian
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MY13 FL2 HSE lux - just gone
MY10 D4 XS
MY07 D3 SE
Massey Ferguson 400 FIS AGTV - Arctic Cat by any other name...
Citroen C3 Picasso for SWMBO so we can remember what fuel economy is!!
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4th Jun 2012 8:07 pm
disconewbie79
Member Since: 10 Apr 2011
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 82
Thanks for the quick reply! Managed to get into the boot by pressing both lock and unlock at the same time. The tailgate switch is definately faulty as it works sometimes but. It others. Pulled the rubber seal out and sure enough there was water in there but now can't get rubber seal back on. Now to contact duck worth parts.....once again thanks for the help
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5th Jun 2012 3:45 pm
disconewbie79
Member Since: 10 Apr 2011
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 82
Just wanted to report that I have changed over the module. And it was a doddle even for me so anyone could do it! Brilliant price from duckworths £25 I think and 25 mins to change!! Thanks for all of the advice and help
23rd Jun 2012 3:28 pm
Olddiver
Member Since: 21 Aug 2012
Location: Beckton, London
Posts: 31
CAN'T OPEN MY TAILGATE?
Hello. Went to open the tailgate after unlocking and......nothing. Tried dashboard button, still no entry. To shorten the story I bashed the number plate lamp housing and......bingo in I went. Pulled off the rubber cover to find the metal strip, which, when pressed, bends and presses on a micro switch was badly corroded. It's a really crappy design and I can't see that a repair would be succesful. I've photographed the offending part but don't know how to put the pictures on here.
I have a suggestion. If this is the problem with your tailgate and a replacement is the only option, cut and short out the two thin black wires attached to the switch thereby activating the unlocking system.
The replacement part is CXB000456PVJ, with the VAT was £65.38 and after removing the trim the exchange was really easy.
If someone can advise me how to get the pic's on here I'd be greartful[/i]
7th Sep 2012 3:37 pm
lurk
Member Since: 01 Jun 2010
Location: Underneath my D3 usually
Posts: 130
Am trying to find out how to get to the lower tailgate wire linkage assembly behind the trim with the boot top & bottom shut & locked - How do you release the top part of the tailgate if the button pushing etc doesn't work ?
So far Ive removed the flab which covers the drop gate to boot - but can't shift the trim over the lower tailgate to see at the workings ????
Please help its cold out in my boot !
LurkWhy do I have 2 big hands when my D3 maintenance requires small hands and at least three of them ?
19th Dec 2012 11:44 am
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
lurk pm sent
19th Dec 2012 11:46 am
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
Lurk
you should be all sorted now
a little help and support on the phone works wonders
19th Dec 2012 12:13 pm
Olddiver
Member Since: 21 Aug 2012
Location: Beckton, London
Posts: 31
Hi, in my case it turned out to be a corroded micro switch in the number plate lamp housing but this was only discovered after struggling to strip off all trim panels on the upper and lower tailgates. I think that this switch could be checked without all the dismantling by simply pulling/forcing off the rubber cover where your fingers go to operate the opening mechanism manually. What I found was that over the years water had penetrated into the void causing corrosion. The switch is actually of very poor quality. When the rubber cover is off you can muck about with the bendy metal and/or simply short out the switch. If this is not the cause of the problem you can now prize out the grey plastic switch assembly and refit the rubber cover then push the assembly back into the lamp housing.This is the electrical option although I read on this site that mechanical failure is more prevelant.
The number plate lamp housing from the box is CXB 000456PUJ
Good luck
19th Dec 2012 12:18 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
you can check upper switch by pressing the 2 buttons on the dash and gently getting someone to open the upper tail gate if it opens then its the micro switch if it doesn't then its the lower latch
you can check upper switch by pressing the 2 buttons on the dash and gently getting someone to open the upper tail gate if it opens then its the micro switch if it doesn't then its the lower latch
...and then programme the Landrover button to operate the mechanisim if it is the handle unit micro switch
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19th Dec 2012 2:57 pm
Groverxv
Member Since: 15 Nov 2008
Location: London
Posts: 8
Tips - having done both the broken actuator and the microswi
The tips and pointers in this thread and others, are bang on and a couple of things I learnt while fixing the broken actuator cable-end in my D305 HSE - use wide flat paint scrapers to lever out the interior trim on the lower tailgate, and start in the middle of the passenger seat side. It was a little easier to pull a little of the carpert off which in turn exposes the hard plastic panel edges, and you can then lever the whole trim out. Use a couple of tennis balls to wedge the still-attached interior trim panel so you can reach in to the tailgate itself with your arm and hand. There is no alternative to cutting and therefore ruining the waterproof membrane that covers the access holes on the tailgate frame. The tailgate frame shape makes the arm and hand work a bit tricky and there are some sharp metal edges to be aware of too.
The plastic cover for the actuator box doesn't come off completely, but you can push it out of the way with your fingers, then reach in with long-nosed pliers and pull hard on the broken end of the cable, et voila - the top tailgate opens and you can fix the whole thing. Per several tips on here, I looped a length of bicycle brake cable through the actuator piston (you'll know it when you see it) and then clamped it hard using standard electrical connector block.
Good luck - it's about 2 hours work with a socket set, paint scrapers, screwdrivers and a crescent wrench.
15th Jan 2013 9:50 am
Discotres
Member Since: 25 Jan 2010
Location: London
Posts: 8491
NOT FIT FOR PURPOSE, END OF Should have had a recall, this happened to me, luxury car? OK people, in a couple of years you will have to get a scraper, do this, do that to get into your boot, are LR having a laugh?
Where is the smart engineer who designed that piece of junk, promoted now I guess I saw the inside of my old one, it was obvious what would happen to it in such a vulnerable position, at least the plastic flap in the new handle should last a little longer
15th Jan 2013 10:35 am
espo
Member Since: 04 Dec 2012
Location: Skien
Posts: 19
I`ve got 2005 D3, bought in nov 2012. There`s no problems with my tailgate, but would it be wise to do some preventive work on this? Both the electrical connector and the mechanical parts? At least check for moisture and corrossion? I`ve got two dogs and a dog cage in the back and a dog/luggage guard in addition, so it could be a bit of a struggle to get in to it from the inside if it gets stucked!
I have a 6 month warranty from the dealer, so at least I guess I will wait until thats gone.
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Should have had a recall, this happened to me, luxury car? OK people, in a couple of years you will have to get a scraper, do this, do that to get into your boot, are LR having a laugh?
engineer who designed that piece of junk, promoted now I guess 
