Member Since: 27 Dec 2014
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 18
I wanted to add my thanks to Bodsy and also mention a couple of differences on an MY14 that may be worth including in the next revision.
Today I replaced rear pads and rotors and adjusted the EPB (shoes retained).
The caliper bolts needed a 17mm spanner rather than 15mm to hold the nut.
Not an issue just for interest more than anything.
I found the EPB adjustment quite fiddly, getting the screwdriver to turn the adjuster cog was a bit tricky and I couldn't seem to get it consistently.
This probably improves with practice.
I used two jacks to lift the rear axle, having only 2t capacity jacks.
This allowed hub rotation as required and saved a bit of jacking time too.
Member Since: 02 May 2007
Location: UK then Italy
Posts: 41
EPB Adjusting Wheel and 4mm Hex Key locating notches
Today I used Bodsey's excellent Brake Bible to adjust the EPB shoes. First off, it is a brilliant document - concise and easy to follow; thank you Bodsey!
I struggled to locate the adjustment wheel and hex bolt that are both hidden behind the disc, even using a small torch to help my poor eyesight . I found the hex bolt and not wanting to 'lose' the position as I turned the disc to find the adjusting wheel I went to mark the rear dust shield and found it was already notched. I then looked for and found a corresponding notch to mark the location of the adjustment wheel.
I marked them and took photos but had problems re-sizing the pictures.
Hope this might be useful.[/img]
18th Jul 2017 11:31 am
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
That's a nice little touch with the markings on the stone guard. Bodsys Brake Bible
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18th Jul 2017 8:21 pm
Ed Snow
Member Since: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Norwich
Posts: 55
just done my rear discs and pads thanks to this and thanks to some good prices from site sponsor Duckworth parts.
Just thought I'd share the following info for others:
I have an October 12 built MY13, I also needed the 17mm spanner to hold the calliper inner bolt. (And yes I had to grind the spanner slight thinner to get into the gap.)
Also found Torque bit T50 for the disc retaining screws to be to tight/not really fitting properly but T45 did the job just fine, maybe I was being a bit cautious not wanting to hit it in and get it stuck.
My stone guards also have notch marks to help with line up so perhaps everyone does if they look closely?? (Notches appear to pre-fabricated as part of the original guard rather than added later)
Cheers Bodsys
Good luck to all others having a go.
4th Aug 2017 10:00 pm
Maxarn58
Member Since: 24 Dec 2011
Location: Sollentuna, north of Stockholm
Posts: 225
Just used the trusty bible, adjusted ny EPB.
This should be added to the list of great litterature..
Rgds UffeRRS MY2006 HST
As a rule, I always resist temptations,
unless they are irresistible!!
20th Aug 2017 1:45 pm
James W
Member Since: 27 Mar 2008
Location: Riyadh, KSA
Posts: 3079
LRD414 wrote:
The hub nut is 36mm rather than 32mm and this required a quick trip to the tool shop to pick up a deep 36mm socket.
I'm doing my rear discs and pads this bank holiday weekend, can anyone confirm two things, please?
1. On a 2010 D4, is the hub nut 36mm not 32mm (as above)
2. Is the EPB service mode procedure the same for a D4 as it is a D3 (in the 'bible')
I'm assuming the 17mm sized bolt for inner calipers too (not 15mm) as previously mentioned.
Many thanks!D4 XS, gone, much loved, never forgotten
2018 FFRR SDV8 Autobiography - Gone to someone with less sense and more time to enjoy it
2016 Toyota Hilux Invincible - Liberating experience
22nd Aug 2017 11:23 am
James W
Member Since: 27 Mar 2008
Location: Riyadh, KSA
Posts: 3079
Anyone? D4 XS, gone, much loved, never forgotten
2018 FFRR SDV8 Autobiography - Gone to someone with less sense and more time to enjoy it
2016 Toyota Hilux Invincible - Liberating experience
Don't know but I hope to find time to do the same job!
23rd Aug 2017 8:10 am
James W
Member Since: 27 Mar 2008
Location: Riyadh, KSA
Posts: 3079
James W wrote:
LRD414 wrote:
The hub nut is 36mm rather than 32mm and this required a quick trip to the tool shop to pick up a deep 36mm socket.
I'm doing my rear discs and pads this bank holiday weekend, can anyone confirm two things, please?
1. On a 2010 D4, is the hub nut 36mm not 32mm (as above)
2. Is the EPB service mode procedure the same for a D4 as it is a D3 (in the 'bible')
I'm assuming the 17mm sized bolt for inner calipers too (not 15mm) as previously mentioned.
Many thanks!
So I bought a 36mm Deep socket anyway but it wasn't required 32mm did the job fine. Oh - edit: And the inner calliper bolt is a 15mm, but you need a thin spanner. I had to try three before I found one that would fit in. Funnily enough it was a cheap Chinese one out of a bike tool set, it just happened to be thin enough.
Everything else as described, great help to have the guide. My biggest tip is don't be tempted to skip the EPB bedding in process, even if you haven't changed the shoes, just the disc.
On the first 'emergency stop' of the ten required, the EPB barely stopped the vehicle. By about the eighth pass, it was locking both rear wheels resulting in an impressive black number eleven down the road. Without bedding in, the effectiveness of the EPB in an emergency would have been totally insufficient.
Find somewhere straight, clear, quiet and with good visibility to do this process.
JamesD4 XS, gone, much loved, never forgotten
2018 FFRR SDV8 Autobiography - Gone to someone with less sense and more time to enjoy it
2016 Toyota Hilux Invincible - Liberating experience
Finally got round to this job on my D4 at the weekend. My rear calliper slider inner nut was 17mm. Didn't seem to be any width restrictions as my halfords advanced 17mm spanner fitter with no issue. Hub nut was 32mm.
11th Sep 2017 8:05 am
Mikeyb
Member Since: 08 Nov 2016
Location: Maldon, Essex
Posts: 516
sorry for a really silly question - how do you open it? The links take me to the gallery but double clicking on the icons only gives me blank white page.Not such a Disco Newbie now!
IID BT
24th Sep 2017 10:30 am
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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24th Sep 2017 12:52 pm
Johno247
Member Since: 23 Dec 2018
Location: Horley
Posts: 56
Changed my Rear Discs and Pads!!
I just wanted to say a big thank you to Bodsy for the guide to replace the rear discs and pads on my pride and joy. It's an excellent guide.
I had a few issues trying to get the brake discs off as it appeared that they had become welded to the hub. It took about 10 minutes on each to free them even with the knurled ratchet wound all the way off. Persistence paid off in the end, that and the fact that I needed to complete the job as I have to drive it tomorrow for work! The bedding in process also worked a treat
One thing I'll have to buy though is a decent trolley jack. I bought a small one and it didn't extend enough to raise the car off the ground!! I had to revert to the scissor jack that came with the car. Also the Land Rover wheel nut tool that came with the car snapped when I was undoing the nuts on the last wheel. Luckily my wife was near Halfords so I had her pick me up a 22mm socket so I could finish the job off... 4.30pm on a Bank Holiday Monday but luckily they didn't close till 6pm... Phew !
All in all a very productive day. £77.00 all in for the discs and pads plus a bit of copper grease. Euro Car Parts were having a 50% off weekend!! Boom!! 8)
6th May 2019 7:08 pm
NitroBN
Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: England
Posts: 8
Its a very in depth guide with better pictures than modern Haynes bog roll, plenty of tips even if your a somewhat experienced diyer.
I cant for the life of me see the adjusting ratchet requiring a flat screwdriver, unless your referring to the star or knurled adjuster wheel ?
Recently developed a squeal whilst driving, sounded like offside rear.
My offside EPB Shoes were both bare metal with some shoe crumbs floating around the drum of the old rotor, my offside caliper's piston was also not at its peak failing to noticably return on brake depress and new rear pads fitted during annual service last Feb at a local LR specialist were showing a distinct difference in wear to the nearside.
A written off RRS L320 donated the following via fleecebay.
V8 rear Rotors and pads, recently refurbed and coated calipers with carriers with to the rear. Serviceable EPB shoes. Have to say the calipers, carriers and rotors were in almost as new condition and this particular seller seems to be at a level others could find hard to reach, fitted ready for adjustment, torquing and bleeding.
Brembo 4 pots to the front recently refurbed with 500 miles or so on pads and rotors, to go on tomorrow weather permitting.
Sorry AF, the refurbed Brembos to the front swayed me away from your V8 D3 upgrade kits but I don't doubt you will get rotor and pad sales in the future along with other parts that may be required from your quality selection.
Little suggestion for the bible, the tools etc required table at the top, the brake fluid dot 4 mentioned theres room there to be a little more specific, ie Synthetic Dot 4 class 6 spec ISO 4295
I am hoping Brembo Dot 4 LV which is suposedly a synthetic class 6 dot 4 low viscosity to ISO 4295 will meet the requirements as I have plenty of it. Not easy to find what land rover LRES22BF03 requirements are.
22nd Dec 2019 5:31 pm
ellzeez
Member Since: 24 Oct 2021
Location: Perth, WA
Posts: 5
Did my front rotors and pads a couple days ago and my rear rotors, pads and park brake shoes today. It took the better part of the whole day to do the rears. I managed to strip one of the T50 bolts so there was a little unplanned angle grinder action to make a slot then bust it with a flathead and hammer.
I’m not sure if this is the ‘proper’ way but I found I had to install the secondary shoe with the PB cable, pin and clip and one side of the return spring, then put the spreader plate in and then attach the return spring to the primary shoe and lever it against the top bulkhead thing to get enough leverage against the spring (it is TIGHT) and then position the primary shoe normally to install the pin and clip. Then install the other spring and the adjuster.
I was a little overwhelmed by the force required to separate the shoes against the return spring so maybe add your technique to that section Bodsy, as I thought I was doing something wrong (and maybe I was). But like I tell my kids, sometimes things just need a little elbow grease.
Adjustment seemed to go well and bedding in procedure worked a treat. Bit worrying pulling the park brake at 40kph the first time I must say.
The EPB doesn’t take as much time to set now. I’m glad that’s over!
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32mm did the job fine. Oh - edit: And the inner calliper bolt is a 15mm, but you need a thin spanner. I had to try three before I found one that would fit in. Funnily enough it was a cheap Chinese one out of a bike tool set, it just happened to be thin enough.
!
