Member Since: 20 Jun 2008
Location: Lancs
Posts: 765
Is the relay a latching or momentary action as from the comments made in previous posts suggest that a momentary non latching relay action is required to operate the heater
Sending a text to turn the output on and then one to turn it off should operate the heater the way this GSM unit appears to be working and would confirm that a momentary output is required
If a momentary output is required the output delay time needs to be set as unit default is on until off command received"Never keep up with the Joneses. Drag'em down to your level. It's cheaper".
I just ring mine to get it going and let the timer turn it off after 40 mins running time, beats having to ring it twice... but it does not cost anything to use as it hangs up as soon as it gets the signal.
Flack
6th Jan 2009 9:07 pm
UNG
Member Since: 20 Jun 2008
Location: Lancs
Posts: 765
I would assume the output from yours is momentary and therefore it only closes for a second or two this is what Duncan needs his unit to do it just a bit of programming 8)"Never keep up with the Joneses. Drag'em down to your level. It's cheaper".
6th Jan 2009 9:17 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
The switch on the timer goes -ve on activation, hence only one additional wire is needed, as long as the COM terminal is -ve and a momentary (N/O) contact onto the timer is made it should work - it worked OK with the remote control and 15+ other remotes / GSM modules i've fitted
6th Jan 2009 11:10 pm
GLYNNE
Member Since: 06 Oct 2006
Location: KENT
Posts: 4695
What another good :idea
Click image to enlarge
fuel can in there
6th Jan 2009 11:19 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
Is that to top up the FBH?
Personally, I like an Optima to be in there 8)
6th Jan 2009 11:21 pm
Howard2
Member Since: 11 Aug 2007
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 19
HI Ten4 is spot on, the timer only needs one wire soldered onto the pcb, if I recall the main area on the pcb is earth or negative.
6th Jan 2009 11:23 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Nothing wrong with the wiring TFC did... the remote has worked fine for 12 months. Thats why i cant work out why the GSM wont work. going to test the relays are actually switching the circuit this morning as BCB suggested. I really hope its not the board Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
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7th Jan 2009 9:27 am
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Ok, this is getting wierder by the minute.
ive tested the relay output terminals and they seem ok.
I have 3 terminals.
NC : no wires attached
COM : two black wires attached
NO : one white wire attached
In the open position, if i place a jumper wire temporarily between NO and COM the timer lights up and the FBH starts
If I do it again it stops , so wiring is OK.
I then tested the continuity between COM and NO.
the MM read 1 to start.
I sent a TEXT message to activate the relay and Relay clicked, the MM read 001 and 5 seconds later the relaty clicked and the MM read 1. so the relays are working, but the timer didnt light up or the FBH start.
Car was shut down with doors closed when i tried this. I am guessing there is something really simple that i'm missing
Left a telephone message with TFC to see if he can make Friday to look at it and wire up wndscreen. but i would like to get this little problem sorted myself.Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
7th Jan 2009 11:34 am
UNG
Member Since: 20 Jun 2008
Location: Lancs
Posts: 765
Duncan have you tried firing the FBH on channel 2 if I am understanding your tests correctly ( I assume you are using an autoranging multimeter ) it should work on channel 1 but trying channel 2 may uncover a fault on channel 1, I have seen a fault similar to this where the unit tested ok but there was a dry solder joint on the board which caused the problem "on load" also on some pcb connectors it is easy to snap the pins to the pcb if the connectors are overtightened
HTH"Never keep up with the Joneses. Drag'em down to your level. It's cheaper".
7th Jan 2009 1:19 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Thanks, I'll try CH2 and see what happens Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
You mentioned that you get 5~6V when the relay is triggered. I think that's the issue here as it should be 12V or thereabouts? Check the voltage on channel 2 and post back I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
7th Jan 2009 3:11 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
I dont think its the voltage as it was the same voltage on the rf remote. Remember, TFC's setup is slightly different to the general instructions created by StapldmDuncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
humour me.... What voltage comes out when you short across com and NO? If the voltage is 12v or thereabouts and this works while the lower voltage from the relay doesn't, I'd say that's your problem. And your relay should output the same voltage it is fed.I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
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What another good :idea 
