wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
  
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Welcome  It may have its own timer , but the webasto heater needs a w-bus signal to operate it ...hence the need for the webasto oval timer !!! G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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 2nd Jan 2009 2:09 pm |
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ajpepe72
Member Since: 02 Jan 2009
Location: bristol uk
Posts: 2
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Ah, I stand corrected then, The one I have must be different then, as I can make my heater run by just supplying 12v to pin1 on the plug going into the heater. I have a universal maplins remote at the moment which when operated sends 12v to my heater and fires it up, but no timer, so i have to press remote again to switch it off again before driving. Hence my search for timing options.
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| 2nd Jan 2009 2:23 pm |
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DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
 
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My GSM unit arrived today
so at about 16:00 when it was starting to get dark and even colder than is has been all day, i decided to go outside  and replace my RF Remote with the GSM one.
it works in the house using a 12v supply etc and ive set up all the config but its doesnt work in the car 
Ive wired it up exactly as the RF remote. I even drew a little diagram to make sure
I have a
RED wire that goes to the +VE (power in)
BLACK wire that goes to the -VE (Power in)
BLACK wire that goes to the COM
BLACK jumper wire between COM and -VE
WHITE wire that goes to the "NO"
Had a quick chat with TFC who helped me check a few things, but still not working 
If I disconnect the WHITE wire and momentarily touch the COM terminal the Timer lights up (flame shown) if I touch the COM again the Timer switches off.
But it doesnt work when i send a text. I hear the relay click and get a confirmation TEXT back to say the relay has opened. The Relay is set to open for about 5 seconds then close which it does (i can hear the second click)
any suggestions ??
If I cant get it working tomorrow then i may need to take a trip to TFC, and get the Heated Front Windscreen wired up to Relay 2, and maybe the alarm sounder to one of the inputs
 Why are easy jobs such a hassle... Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
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| 6th Jan 2009 6:33 pm |
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anthony604266
Member Since: 12 May 2008
Location: Exeter
Posts: 109
 
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Sorry DiscoDunc I dont know but I am interested in getting my Heated screen to work off my 2nd relay is there a how to post for this ? You can never have too many toys...
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| 6th Jan 2009 6:36 pm |
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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
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Which GSM unit did you get ? G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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| 6th Jan 2009 6:42 pm |
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DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
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I dont know. I was going to ask TFC to do it. I guess it just needs a connection from the GSM Relay to another relay to run the Windscreen. If I knew where to connect it to I would have a go, but I dont  Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
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| 6th Jan 2009 6:44 pm |
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DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
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I got the one from rfsolutions. Quite expensive but it has 2 control outputs and 2 digital inputs. all communication is by TEXT and it can provide confirmation TEXTs when various inputs or outputs are activated, including power up after a power loss.
it would be great if i could get the  thing to work. But thats down to me i fear, not the product
I thought i would wire up the Alarm to one of the inputs so if the alarm goes off it will send me a text to say "Someone is nicking your car...... and there is nothing you can do about it  " Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
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| 6th Jan 2009 6:48 pm |
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countrywide
Member Since: 16 Sep 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 6019
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Why is the common linked to the -ve with a link. If it just emulates a closed contact on the flame switch, all you need are the two wires from the timer flame switch PCB connected to the common and normally open contact on the relay in the GSM. If the timer switch is not normally grounded then it could cause a fault.
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| 6th Jan 2009 6:52 pm |
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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
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Dont have any knowledge of that one im afraid ...unless you have a link to a wiring diagram G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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| 6th Jan 2009 6:56 pm |
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DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
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These are the instructions here : http://www.rfsolutions.co.uk/acatalog/DS250-5.pdf Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
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| 6th Jan 2009 7:09 pm |
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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
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As countrywide said ..get rid of the link wire then connect to the common and N/O contacts G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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| 6th Jan 2009 7:19 pm |
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DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
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but the link wire must be there for a reason, TFC wired it something to do with positive earth, I did understand it when he explained, but the cold weather has cleansed my brain (Ive forgotten what he said  ) Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
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| 6th Jan 2009 7:27 pm |
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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
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Back to the original problem then
DiscoDunc wrote:Help please...
I am trying to connect up an LED to indicate when the FBH is working.
I have 4 wires going to/from the Timer.
2 of them are live (12v) all the time (red and yellow) and 1 is live (white) when the timer is activated. But its only reading 6v. Is this correct or do i need to solder another wire to the timer (which i'm not keen on doing ) for a 12v feed. I could just go and buy a 6v LED if this is the correct way of doing it ?
The final wire is the -ve (black). (I think), However, if i connect the LED to the black wire and the other end to the 6v white wire when the timer is deactivated.... the FBH starts 
I understood that there should be a 12v live wire when the remote is activated.
And
DiscoDunc wrote:
The Red, Black and Yellow wires are soldered to 3 of the 4 pins on the circuit board plug, the 4th wirem, white in my case is soldered to the circuit board on the pad nearest the plug. there is only one wire soldered to a pad.
Ive tested again since posting and even when I have no flame symbol on the timer, i still get 6v on the white wire. Now I'm really confused
if i put an LED across the white and black wires, the FBH fires up. WTF ??
Got me confused last time !!! G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
Last edited by wiggs on 6th Jan 2009 7:42 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 6th Jan 2009 7:41 pm |
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bobbycrispbox
Member Since: 15 May 2006
Location: Where women glow and men plunder
Posts: 2580
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10 told me about this too - I think the gist of it was that you don't need to make two connections on to the webasto pcb, you can do it just with one and pulls the voltage down on it to simulate a button press. In this context, Dunc's description makes sense. And with it working when the white wire is briefly grounded (touching it on the COM terminal) it suggests to me that either
a) the relay on the new board isn't working or
b) its terminals have been mislabeled
Dunc - do you have a multimeter? You just need to check for continuity between NO and COM when the relay is activated.
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| 6th Jan 2009 7:41 pm |
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DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
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I'll try that tomorrow. If I connect the +ve of the MM to the White wire and the -ve to the ground(ie chassis) the MM reads about 5-6v. when the relay is activated, the MM reads 0v
Its all greek to me Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
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| 6th Jan 2009 8:23 pm |
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