Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
Explored a small ford just west of Wellington, Somerset
25th Aug 2016 8:10 pm
Danish
Member Since: 13 Jul 2016
Location: Manchester
Posts: 134
Fitted the red/green buttons to the steering wheel.
Released the air bag but left it plugged in and popped it on top.
Cut the hole in the right side after making a template of the left side.
Cut hole with a sharp knife too small at first then slowly slowly catchy monkey and done.
Will have to disconnect the battery though tomorrow to push the airbag back in as it keeps catching the horns !
Last edited by Danish on 25th Aug 2016 10:15 pm. Edited 1 time in total
25th Aug 2016 8:25 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
Re: Slept in it!
Mike40 wrote:
Hang a cloth over the top tailgate lock to stop it locking closed. There is no interior release and it is the best way out for a night time pee...!!! 8)
If you hold in both the lock and unlock button on the dash at the same time it'll pop the upper tailgate open.
25th Aug 2016 8:59 pm
Azzybee
Member Since: 04 Jul 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 287
Thanks tayaste.
Appreciate the info.
I'll look for it now, didn't realise there was a forum shop.
Thanks again.
26th Aug 2016 12:02 am
Azzybee
Member Since: 04 Jul 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 287
Can't find the split pin and washer to use tayaste. Any chance of a link please?
Appreciate it.
26th Aug 2016 12:17 am
Landy_andy
Member Since: 05 May 2013
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 676
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
26th Aug 2016 8:08 am
Azzybee
Member Since: 04 Jul 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 287
Thank you landy_andy and tayaste.
Just bought it
26th Aug 2016 3:52 pm
Dan the Man
Member Since: 20 Mar 2014
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 215
Replaced the warn winch solenoid with an Albright one...
I went out to play at the weekend and used the winch a few times rescuing a few stuck vehicles...
The next day, being thorough, I unwound the winch rope to clean it & wind it neatly back onto the drum. However, there was no life in the winch and I had 25m of plasma rope laid out in front of the G4.
My first suspicion was that the winch had got water in through the drain hole and was going to need a rewind. Fortunately, using a battery & set of jump leads I proved that the winch was working just fine – but it wasn't getting power ( just the dreaded “clicking”).
I decided it was time to bite the bullet & replace the original solenoid with an Albright one which I'd purchased a couple of months ago, but hasn't managed to get access to the original…..
Last month, I had the intercooler replaced, and to do this, the garage (Disco Mikey) had removed the sump guard – something I'd been completely unable to do during previous attempts. This made it a much simpler job, which I'd previously found to be impossible, even with the front bumper removed. Once the sump guard is off, you can get at the solenoid from below & remove it. OK, it did require an angle grinder to cut through the mounting bolts, but once unbolted, off came the old solenoid.
On inspecting the cables between the old solenoid & the winch, it became apparent that where they passed through the solenoid aluminium casing, there was no rubber gromit protecting the cables, and consequently, the aluminium plate had worn through the cable insulation, shorting the winch cable to ground.
It had proved to be an intermittent fault but one which could easily occur on other G4s I believe. Although I suspected the original solenoid to be the culprit, subsequent testing of it had proved it to be working correctly – despite having a generous counting of mud & the connections showing signs of corrosion.
It has ultimately proved to be a blessing in disguise, as I now have a fully optional winch operated by an Albright solenoid.....
This was me testing the wiring before fixing the solenoid in place.
Also came across this product, now liberally applied to all electrical contacts...
Hope the above info proves helpful to anyone experiencing winch issues, or is considering replacing the original warn solenoid.1981 Unimog U1300L (ex German Army vehicle
Previous:
Discovery 3 G4 Challenge
Golf R DSG
BMW 535d M Sport Touring
2010 D4 HSE in Nara Bronze
26th Aug 2016 4:38 pm
.olli.
Member Since: 17 Dec 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 83
I changed my tail gate latch for the stronger "newer" design as preventive maintenance. it turned out I caught it just in time, it was already starting to break at the weak point! See pic
Many thanks to Disco_Mikey for his guide, I followed it to the letter it went flawlessly, job done well within an hour including a cup of tea!
27th Aug 2016 6:46 pm
Azzybee
Member Since: 04 Jul 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 287
Hi .olli.
Could you send me the link to the disko Mikey guide and a link to buy the latch please. Would like to do this myself.
Thanks.
27th Aug 2016 7:00 pm
.olli.
Member Since: 17 Dec 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 83
Sorry i don't have a link for the latch, i bought mine on the forum a while ago...
I hope this helps
28th Aug 2016 8:26 am
.olli.
Member Since: 17 Dec 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 83
It's part number LR017470
Make sure you get the new design, with the curved cable end bit, as opposed to the original one which is a right angle and prone to breaking.
This thread illustrates the difference:
Member Since: 23 Dec 2013
Location: under the car
Posts: 404
changed the upper front wishbones at 32°c rather than drinking beer and BBQing.
What a job to get the bolt out sitting behind the air bags. Well, after 10 years it was time to rtackle the job.
In 2 weeks the lower front wishbones will follow as part of the overhaul job.Achim
own garage certified LR tech
Disco 2 TD5 MY 2001 - gone but still driven by another owner
Defender 110 TD5 driving me bananas with all faults
Disco 3 TDV 6 HSE MY 2005 gone @280.000 km
Disco 4 SDV 6 HSE MY 2012
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