Member Since: 16 Oct 2010
Location: Vaaltriangle
Posts: 36
Hi (Neigbour) Namlandy
Start by checking all the airline connections with a water and sunlight dischwashing liquid solution. Use a spray bottle the garderners use to spray house plants with water or the like.
Start at the compressor - see the forum on how to remove the compressor cover - and spray all the connectors. in front off the compressor is the cross link valve that may be the culpritt. Also check the connections on top off each air bellow(schock).
I picked up bubbles forming from the soapy solution on the compressor. Removed and cleaned the air connectors and problem solved.
A bit off work can save you lots of money that the dealer would love to take.
Groete
Gertcurrent: Disco 3 TDV6 SE, fitted: 265/65/17 BFG, NL Dual Battery, Onboard compressor, frontrunner towbar.
old: Defender 110 2.8i
24th Jan 2011 6:21 pm
Namlandy
Member Since: 14 Sep 2008
Location: Namibia
Posts: 57
Hi Gert, hope to do it this weekend. Already done some work on my Disco myself, dealers not up to parr. Blanked my EGR valves, running better than new. Build myself a set off lifting conectors for higher off road driving, so ja, I think I will find this problem. Hope to find a complete pipe and valve layout.
Thanx for tips, hope you have a boat, seems to me there is a lot off rain comming your way.
Regards
24th Jan 2011 10:44 pm
Rabby
Member Since: 13 Feb 2011
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 16
Hi,
New to this forum after recently purchasing a 2007 D3 XS. The air suspension seems to work fine but the compressor makes an awful racket when operational. The compressor protective cover was repalced by the dealer after it was found to be cracked (previous owner used it as a jacking point - a common problem I understand) but the noise continues and the dealer is quibbling over replacing the compressor itself). Any clues/suggestions?
Thanks,
Rabby
13th Feb 2011 5:06 pm
caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
If they only replaced the cover and didn't replace the bracket then that is what they should check first. If not they need to replace the compressor as it may have been damaged.“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
14th Feb 2011 1:27 am
D3fella
Member Since: 07 Aug 2010
Location: Essex
Posts: 42
Air suspension compressor
I too have the "suspension compressor fault" amber light up with normal height selected only.
Is there an easy DIY way of resetting things to see if the problem goes away/reoccurs without me having to take it to my local butcher, err sorry LR dealer & pay them stupid amounts to bull5h1t me into thinking theres a major problem that they can charge me for when really there isn't?
All help is gratefully received.
26th Feb 2011 2:06 pm
DannyUbertek
Member Since: 20 Feb 2011
Location: Kent
Posts: 311
I paid x for compressor fitted
Hi getting a new comp today fitted by giggle pin 280 for comp and an hour to fit at 30 plus vat, not bad I thought!
Initially car suspect light came on in December then went away until monday 7 march after working fine one a long drive suddenly went on frosty day, turned off ignition and reset put car into off road mode then it would not come down, took to dealer in ton bridge they replaced relay and front dropped to access but rear still sky dragsters style woo. Stated either comp fault or wiring fault 110 per hour hour! Then had some weird messages, red light don't go above 30 ignored that 70 on motorway, then on the 4x4 display 3 wheels were down and the front rhs was up really far although completely flat!
Took to giggle pin said comp faulty as not venting...
See how we get on today!!!
DanSpent tooo much club: Air compresser, parking ecu,D4 front D4 rear, tow bar, D4 arches, stormers 20" with General grabbers, new engine, new turbo, new front lower arms, new rear upper arms, new track rod ends, new anti roll bar bushes, Bas remap 2nd stage, K&N filter, clear indicators, door handle covers, nav update, wheel protector, new winch for spare wheel, 20" stormer spare, new plastic tube on top of engine, new fuel flap assembly, new mats, sill protectors,
11th Mar 2011 7:38 am
NC
Member Since: 11 Mar 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 7
Hello All
I am an engineer and I am currently investigating the failures associated with these compressors. First of all I am not linked to JLR or to the manufacturer of these compressors.
I am working for a company who has an interest in improving the reliability of the EAS system, including and starting with the compressor.
If anybody can provide failed compressors, or currently has an issue with the suspension system fitted to a vehicle then please let me know.
In return for helping us we will provide support to fix the problem, possibly for free including parts and labour (depends on the nature of the problem and what we can learn from it).
The aim is to provide Disco 3 users with a better product. Once an improved version is available we will looking to issue some compressors free of charge to a limited number of users for trial purposes. The units will be thoroughly tested at this stage and will have very minimal risk of failing once installed.
Please let me know if you are interested.
Thanks
Nick
11th Mar 2011 11:19 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
14th Mar 2011 11:40 am
NC
Member Since: 11 Mar 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 7
Hi Bodsy
I am based in the Midlands. We have our main engineering centre and test facilities on site, but we are able to send engineers out to vehicles if requried.
Thanks
Nick
14th Mar 2011 11:56 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Midlands meet is tonight, just off J2 of M54, I'm sure we'd be interested to hear about what you've got in mind Bodsys Brake Bible
I am an engineer and I am currently investigating the failures associated with these compressors. First of all I am not linked to JLR or to the manufacturer of these compressors.
I am working for a company who has an interest in improving the reliability of the EAS system, including and starting with the compressor.
If anybody can provide failed compressors, or currently has an issue with the suspension system fitted to a vehicle then please let me know. Thanks Nick
Per below, (and in the jpg's my gallery), is a picture related to the failure of my compressor. The picture below shows a broken connecting rod arm, however I think the problem was the single screw that ties the con rod to the eccentric undid itself and then the rod jammed and broke. The net result was silence anyway and no air.
My feeling was that bolt should be designed not to undo itself and I rather expect this is a rather common failure mode. I do not believe there was any bearing failure either, but that is the question - why did the bolt let go?
I could mail you the broken con rod bits, (or the whole compressor), if you wished to examine it. The screw part at the top of the picture is interesting in that while the picture does not show it, the treads are all worn off for about half the length of the stud and hence the screw backed out. The screw is not broken, just the con rod, and I believe that breakage was a result, not the cause.
I have long since installed a new compressor as per the usual routine. It is nice to think that someone is concerned, as to me, it seems that Land Rover or someone in Japan wins with every failure, hence the less reliable, the better.
Click image to enlarge
2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
26th Mar 2011 4:39 am
Namlandy
Member Since: 14 Sep 2008
Location: Namibia
Posts: 57
Hi all, is it posible to use a ARB compressor and run new air lines with a valve to each air bag, you can then pump them one at the time to a hight you need. With all this you can remove all this valves and pipes that cause problems. I can not take this Disco that lower over 2 days any more. I am looking for a long term solution.
Hi all, is it possible to use a ARB compressor and run new air lines with a valve to each air bag, you can then pump them one at the time to a hight you need. With all this you can remove all this valves and pipes that cause problems. I can not take this Disco that lower over 2 days any more. I am looking for a long term solution.
Yes, what you want to do is possible however you really do not need the air compressor; also the compressor is often only part of the problem.
In theory, you tee into each 6mm air line between the individual front air springs and the front block valve and the same at the rear. You then run lengths of 6 mm air line from each tee to an appropriate location, perhaps two lines into the engine compartment and two to somewhere near the rear spare. Each line is terminated with a Schrader valve and you fill each of the four air springs to appropriate heights from a portable air source, preferably oil free and dry air. Actually you could use nitrogen but I would recommend against that. The front air springs run between 8 and 10 bar; the rear less, 5 to 8 bar.
You should also pull fuses F35P, F26E, and F3E to effectively kill all the air suspension electronics and that is where the not so good starts. Doing that you loose a lot of the advantages of air suspension so there is some thought that one may as well just convert to coil springs and be done with it. You may also have the air suspension trouble light illuminated all the time on the dash, but at least you will be mobile.
Per the link below, a vendor in Australia has already worked out something like what I describe above. His solution sort of assumes that the system still works and the kit is more of a get out of the Outback kind of thing rather than 7/24/365. Also, the air system can eventually be made reliable, but it takes time and you still have to have some sort of solution for when it does quit which is what the kit is all about.
http://www.greenovalexperience.com/eas_inflation_kit.html2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
29th Apr 2011 12:00 am
Namlandy
Member Since: 14 Sep 2008
Location: Namibia
Posts: 57
Thanx bbyer, Maybe the cheaper way to go is the pipes, but long term I would go for shocks and coils. Do you maybe know what is the livespan on the airbags? I do not want to go threw all this and then I need to replace airbags.
Nobody seems to complain much about the life of the air springs. They will sometimes develop small leaks but for the most part, do not explode so to speak.
The shocks go first, and then there are some that say the oil from the shocks soaked into the rubber of the air spring so while the air spring is still OK, once you get the shock out, you may as well replace the whole assembly.
Given where you are, well getting any part is probably a big deal and I gather most South African 3's have the coil springs so ...2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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