EDIT
IMPORTANT The correct thread for the Voss fittings in the valve blocks is 1/8 BSP 9.7mm 28 TPI M10 x1
will fit.
Push fit fittings are available from the usual suppliers in this size.
After asking on the forum for info about the gallery pressure for an occasional pressure rising too slowly fault, I did not get much input.
So I decided to write up my findings and cure.
There is a lot of reluctance to approach the air circuit but under all the hype and technical bulletins it is very simple.
It consists of airbags on each corner, valve block front and back centre valve block called reservoir block and a compressor also incorporating an exhaust valve. Joined by 6mm nylon air lines.
We can find leaks by removing lines from the blocks and pressurising them with a simple rig consisting of a pressure gauge and couplings.
I made the rig using an oil gauge oil gauge adapter and shrader valve for an alloy wheel.
Cut the mushroom head off the valve and it fits in the adapter.
The threads on the couplings are 1/8 BSP compatible, same as the oil gauge adapter.
The adapter is intended to replace the oil pressure switch to install a guage, the pressure switch screws in the side.
To test the components we need to remove the appropriate line from the reservoir block by unscrewing the Voss connector, the block comes off the chassis by pushing up to release the mounting grommets from the bracket.
Lubricate round the pipe first with WD40 etc.
The voss connector will screw into the block but will not tighten down on the olive, this is not a problem for test as the olive is tight on the pipe and tapered, the O ring seal is in the body so will not leak.
For example remove the line feeding the front suspension, expect air release, although its probably empty, which is why we are here, use safety glasses.
Screw the voss connector into the gauge block and pressurise with tyre inflator or compressor to 4 or 5 bar, read the gauge pressure and leave for a period.
If the pressure drops you have found the leak.
The air bags can be tested by removing the appropriate line from front or back valve block.
The compressor and exhaust valve by removing the compressor line at the reservoir block and pressurising the compressor.
find leaks with soap and water.
Repairs can be carried out with push fit 6mm connectors and airline available from flybay or the famous rain forest.
An alternative jig is to use a cheap tyre inflator and appropriate couplings.
The 6mm airline will make a good seal to the type clip if it is wound tightly with about 6 layers of electrical tape, wind it from the tape roll it must be tight and flat.
Pressurise as above and leave to find leaks if the pressure drops
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
If you remove a voss connector carefully open the split olive with a screwdriver, don't open it more than required to ease it off or it will crack.
If you replace any voss with EDIT 6mm x M10 x 1 push fit connectors or use straight couplers to repair test for leaks, carefilly use PTFE plumbing tape.
some new fittings leak under pressure.
My leak was the line to the front valve block chaffed behind the nearside wheel arch liner.
If you chase this line, no need to remove the whole liner remove the front and outer clips to the centre
nearside and bend it down.
To access the front valve block remove the front third clips on the offside and bend the liner up.
Happy leak hunting, I hope this helps members find air leaks, there is no magic in the air circuit.
Regards
Bob
27th Aug 2020 10:38 am
DWDG
Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Bedford
Posts: 101
Suspension hissing air - front near side.
Hi All,
Hope everyone is keeping well. My 2007 HSE has finally got an issue. It's leaking air and the amber suspension light comes on. I've put it in high mode and switched off the engine. Hissing air from inside near side front wheel arch but can't identify (with sprayed washing up liquid) where the leak is coming from. It is definitely localised to that area. I also think that the wheel alignment maybe slightly out on that side. I also noted that the compressor is running a fair amount of the time. I checked the compressor a few months ago and it was clean and tidy.
I would also add that I feel the suspension is slightly softer than usual with a bit more roll, and when you swerve violently at around 15 mph side to side the traction light comes on - a bit of a lower speed than I'd perhaps expect.
What are thoughts on what to check and can I still drive it (tow a caravan)? Its booked in for the 11th May at local independent to look at it. No other issues at all.
The fault code that comes up is C1130-66 RML - Ride Level Control Module - intermittent.
So my questions are:
Does anybody know exactly what this is?
If not, it is likely to be releasing air in error - faulty circuit or switch;
Or is it a faulty pipe connection, valve or mechanical part2007 Discovery 3 HSE Lugano Teal
2011 BMW 520d Touring Sophisticato Grey
2000 Porsche Boxster 2.7 Arena Red
2002 Porsche 911 3.6 C4 Cabriolet Artic Silver - sold last year
1987 Porsche 944S Black - sold last year
2006 Discovery 3 HSE Buckingham Blue - sold last year
2012 Ford Grand CMax Panther Black (wife’s) wish we’d sold that instead!
28th Apr 2021 12:47 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14135
Hi
It sounds like it could be leaking from the top of the airbag or the airbag itself
When mine was leaking it would only leak in off road height , enclosed a pic after I tested it off the disco , ended up replacing both front struts
Maybe the excessive roll and warning light is the strut is leaking too much for it to get up to full pressure ??
If u have a garden pump style sprayer , try and spray round the middle of the strut in different heights and on top with some soapy water as u can spray a good distance
I used one that had a long nozzle so was able to get right onto the voss connector , never know that might just need nipping up
Plus hope u don’t mind me saying , plse put an axle stand under the chassis if ur reaching inside the wheelarch , not wishing to try and teach u how to suck eggs but I did that and the suspension suddenly started to move and managed to get my arm out quickly
Hope that helps a little
28th Apr 2021 5:57 pm
DWDG
Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Bedford
Posts: 101
Great advice, many thanks. Douglas2007 Discovery 3 HSE Lugano Teal
2011 BMW 520d Touring Sophisticato Grey
2000 Porsche Boxster 2.7 Arena Red
2002 Porsche 911 3.6 C4 Cabriolet Artic Silver - sold last year
1987 Porsche 944S Black - sold last year
2006 Discovery 3 HSE Buckingham Blue - sold last year
2012 Ford Grand CMax Panther Black (wife’s) wish we’d sold that instead!
28th Apr 2021 6:31 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14135
Ur so welcome and glad it helped
Plse let us know how things go , fingers crossed is just a simple leak
Hi Sorry for the late response. been away working.
If you have a hissing leak behind the NS wheel arch it is most likely the tube from the centre valve block to the front.
It travels along the NS then over the wheel arch liner, mine frayed against a bracket supporting the turbo at the rear end of the liner.
See my post
Partly repeated above by someone for how to find and fix air leaks.
Regards
Bob
7th May 2021 6:11 pm
justmark
Member Since: 08 Jun 2021
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 34
Suspension compressor exhaust valve venting
Hi All,
First post so hope I am correct in posting here, pls excuse if I get it wrong.
Long story, started to get issues with the suspension (like many others), Fault code was C1A1364, so a few months back I purchased a full overhaul kit from X8R along with compressor exhaust valve LR020590.
Removed compressor (top bolt was trying), rebuilt compressor and air receiver and fitted new end cap to it, replaced the exhaust valve and reassembled everything. All good no faults and car drove as would be expected. I have towed 500 miles and covered a further 500 miles. Now recently on start up the compressor seems to open the exhaust valve and vent off air quite a pop, it does this a few times when first setting off, then nothing more. No bongs, no lights no fault codes.
Anyone have this issue?
Cheers
update, feel like a numpty, stripped off the compressor housing this morning and found that the exhaust pipe from the compressor to the silencer and come off https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/images/smiles/icon_whistle.gif, reattached it firmly this time and problem seems to be solved!
Alway best to double check your work!https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif
8th Jun 2021 4:52 pm
Andyk41
Member Since: 09 Sep 2011
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 98
Morning
My 06 D3 is being a little strange - had the yellow suspension light and normal ride height only for about a month and then it seemed to go away and all was well. Had its MOT 2 weeks ago and needed a new rear driver side upper arm which was done and now the suspension light is back on and the whole system seems very confused!!!! Start up and the height switch shows access height and no faults, move the switch to select normal height and get a message HDC Fault...... and then the suspension light pings but the compressor runs. Rear goes up and front doesn't really move and it is also on occasion saying its in extended mode and once clear of the obstacle reset the height however the actual vehicle height has not changed so like my Disco I am very confused.06 S, sticker, colour coded boot handle and sill guards added within 2 hours of getting it!!!
18th Nov 2021 11:42 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14135
Hi
Indeed understand suspension can sometimes be trying
As u had the upper rear arm replaced did u get 4 wheel alignment done , as that’s req when u replace the rear upper arms and front lower arms
Here’s a link for u, the Hunter systems are very good
After you’ve had that done see if u have any more errors , if so will then req access to a code reader , also good idea when getting the codes read is to ensure ur steering wheel angle sensor is calibrated, ie with the wheels dead straight should read zero as that can also throw errors
Hope that helps a little and plse let us know how u get on
18th Nov 2021 9:04 pm
Andyk41
Member Since: 09 Sep 2011
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 98
Thats great thanks, I have had the compressor off and serviced it along with the centre block which has helped remedy the seeming confusion that the system has had in terms of what height it is in but I am still getting the warning light pop on. Am going to service the front and rear blocks as well and then see what happens. I did get codes done as my neighbours son brought his reader home from work and I got -
C1A13 - pressure doe not decreasing when venting gallery
C1A36 - Exhaust Valve
C1131 - Air Supply.
I have checked the reservoir tank for leaks and that seems fine.
Thanks for your help.06 S, sticker, colour coded boot handle and sill guards added within 2 hours of getting it!!!
19th Nov 2021 9:58 am
Doughboy
Member Since: 04 Aug 2020
Location: Tamworth
Posts: 93
Hi Andy, did you get anymore done.
I am having a very similar issue.
Mine is fine from the off, but as soon as I drop passenger off and drive off, I get the sus light fault. I'm deducing that the self levelling is trying to vent excess air now to compensate for the passenger weight allowing a rise in the height.
I get the same fault...venting gallery... So I'm pretty hopeful on it being a pressure relief valve issue..
Again, its only doing this all since a wishbone top rear replacement earlier in the year...
Rich
24th Nov 2021 11:51 am
Andyk41
Member Since: 09 Sep 2011
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 98
Think the compressor is dying
So i have had intermittent yellow suspension lights on and special programs off HDC Fault for a month or so and also the normal height only warning and now the suspension is on the floor and won't raise up at all. I get the suspension warning light on every time I start up the disco but it will let me select normal height and the compressor runs for thirty seconds to a minute and then bong the yellow light turns red and the compressor cuts out.
I am thinking that it could be time for a new compressor - the AMK that is currently on has done c90k miles and I did service it with a new exhaust valve solenoid in the summer and when I looked in it this time the desiccant in the dryer is pretty damp.06 S, sticker, colour coded boot handle and sill guards added within 2 hours of getting it!!!
10th Apr 2022 7:51 am
Doughboy
Member Since: 04 Aug 2020
Location: Tamworth
Posts: 93
Had mine off Friday, rebuilt, back on and seems fixed fingers crossed. Points I noted..
1)Top bolt missing! - so it has been off before..
2)Sprayed wd40 on coloured grommet to remove pipe.. Bubbling like anything, glad I've got the replacement cap...so prone to leaking advice is accurate.
3)top filter sat at an angle and slightly dislodged - about a teaspoon of sand/dust sat on top and a few small beads.. Looks like the white particle filters are totally blocked.
4)definitely remember to put the top plastic cover back on car before lifting the compressor and bracket back into place 😂
All in all, it was really interesting stripping the compressor and rebuilding. Hopefully the residues of dust in the system don't become problematic.
At least with nice new chassis clips and bolts, it will come off quick again.. Which is going to happen soon and I want to treat the chassis and sill area there when it gets warmer.
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