And hard wire it, so you can manually change between the inputs.
That will require the schematics for the screen etc.
Should be possible to do.
Again, just thinking out of the box. This mod, will as i can see it, not interfere with other systems. But still, its a LR
21st Sep 2014 11:09 pm
RicoF
Member Since: 13 May 2013
Location: Malta
Posts: 89
Well I am not that technical, there are a couple of pics on the forum showing the internals of nav screen so you might be able to identify the IC without dismantling yours, however this might be a stupid question... would you trigger the +5V then?
22nd Sep 2014 8:20 am
RicoF
Member Since: 13 May 2013
Location: Malta
Posts: 89
This is too small I guess (taken from this thread)
22nd Sep 2014 8:37 am
John Andre Ognheim
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Bergen
Posts: 111
To get the 5 volt is the easiest part.
I just 5 volt as an example....
In case we could pin point the video swithc ( if there is one)
and find the data sheet for it. Then it would be possible.
Just have to use a trigger switch, like the one used on the GVIF module.
The challenge, is to get the schematic for this screen.
If i got time, I will open it up, and take som good pics, and check it out.
I know there`s some nerds out there love to investigate stuff like this... he he....
22nd Sep 2014 10:45 am
fripsy
Member Since: 21 Oct 2010
Location: Grasse
Posts: 21
John, exactly what I was thinking when I got my D3...
Due to a lack of free time I didn't look into this any further, and the fact that I didn't want to brick the module...
Without having the module in front of me and just looking at the picture, I would say that the switching is done by the 3 silver transistors just under the inputs, could be mosfets, but like you said, the picture is too small...
If these are indeed mosfets, we could create a simple board that would drive these mosfets on various other signals coming from different sources (rear/front camera, dvd, ...)
This should be possible... perhaps... maybe...The beginning of wisdom is silence. The second step is listening.
24th Sep 2014 8:07 am
John Andre Ognheim
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Bergen
Posts: 111
Hi
Think we are on to something there......
If i get some spare time when back home, I will open it, take some better pics, and look into it.
I`m not an electronic specialist. its nearly 16 years, since i worked with similar stuff.
But it shouldnt be impossible though.
John
24th Sep 2014 11:36 am
fripsy
Member Since: 21 Oct 2010
Location: Grasse
Posts: 21
Well... it isn't gonna be that simple...
I just realised that there has to be another switch, cause the 3 inputs are extra inputs...
Perhaps it is possible to connect some sort of interface directly to the lcd, as can be done for the touch-part of the screen, done by the all-round wizard Wiggs, see this thread: http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic21001.html
On second thought, connecting something directly to the lcd is not realistic as it would need an interface and a switch for that flatcable...The beginning of wisdom is silence. The second step is listening.
24th Sep 2014 12:14 pm
Daedalus
Member Since: 21 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 16
Dead Satnav
Uh oh
I turned my (lack of) capability to this modification; including the brightness fix, this weekend and now have a dead Sat nav.
I have found it quite difficult to follow the instructions given so far. I understand where Points 1 and 2 are, on the PCB, and I thought I understood the directions for the switches, but am not clear. Are there 2 switches in total - one for the RR to D3 switch + one for the brightness switch when in RR mode - or have I got that mixed up? And, if have got that right, then why use switches with 6 poles? This is why I wonder if I got confused.
Is there someone out there who can make all this clear for an idiot like me?
Second point - while trying to get this right I suspect that I may have fried the CI that is referred to as Point 2 in this thread by not being able to get a solder fix on it and then quite possibly over-heating the IC to get the solder to stick. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement IC from? Then I can practice my soldering by soldering it back in again!
Thanks in advance
28th Sep 2014 3:36 pm
fripsy
Member Since: 21 Oct 2010
Location: Grasse
Posts: 21
Hi Daedalus,
you need a 6 pole switch, because to put the screen in RRmode, the wire on the plug needs to be detached and for the brightness fix the diode needs to be connected at the same time.
If this is your switch:
1 4
connector pin 4 ------o o
wire to be connected to point 4 ------o 2 5 o----------------- point 1
o o----------------- diode (side to be connected to point 1)
3 6
You connect one end from the wire comming from the plug to pole 1, the other end on pole 2.
For the brightness fix, use poles 5 and 6.
This way, when you flip the switch, the connection to the plug will be interupted and the diode will be connected, and visa versa.
I personally didn't mount a switch, my screen is in RR mode all the time.
As for the IC, I don't have the possibility to open my dash for now, perhaps another member can help you out here.
Cheers.The beginning of wisdom is silence. The second step is listening.
29th Sep 2014 8:29 am
Daedalus
Member Since: 21 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 16
Hi Flipsy
Brilliant - thank you - this is very clear.
I see now, from your description, that I made the mistake of assuming that 2 separate switches were required for the function of switching modes and switching brightness levels. In fact it is a single switch that performs both the mode switch and the brightness change simultaneously. Thank you. I am going to have a go at this today and see whether or not my satnav may live again. I ordered a second hand replacement just in case I really have fried this one!
Many thanks for your patience and advice. I'll let you know how I get on
29th Sep 2014 11:16 am
Daedalus
Member Since: 21 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 16
of course I meant to address you as Fripsy, only my fingers got in the way - apologies!
29th Sep 2014 11:17 am
fripsy
Member Since: 21 Oct 2010
Location: Grasse
Posts: 21
No ploblem !
Glad I could help.The beginning of wisdom is silence. The second step is listening.
29th Sep 2014 11:17 am
eenomc
Member Since: 07 Oct 2013
Location: Moray
Posts: 173
Re: Dead Satnav
I think its unlikely you've used enough heat to brick an IC, normally the damage would be very easy to see; discolouration, change in surface texture etc. Have you had a good look for any solder spatter that may have shorted out other leads? I've just sold my sat nav display, if I'd looked at this thread sooner I could have noted the part number for the IC. Actually, it went off to London so it could possibly be you... If you manage to get a part number, drop me a pm and I'll see if my electronics broker friend in Singapore can get a 'sample'
29th Sep 2014 7:01 pm
Daedalus
Member Since: 21 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 16
Ah ha - yes Iain - and many thanks for sending it off so promptly! Perhaps, if your advice here turns out to be right, then I'll be a satnav up. Not such a bad situation to be in.
I must admit that the top of the IC does now look 'sweaty' and that's why I concluded it to be cooked
Out of interest what did you upgrade to?
29th Sep 2014 7:26 pm
eenomc
Member Since: 07 Oct 2013
Location: Moray
Posts: 173
I've gone to the garmin 1490, with 2014 maps. The standard sat Nav was fine here but we travel to Donegal, Roscommon and Dublin a lot with the caravan and were caught out recently on a tiny road it took us down in Donegal. A grounded caravan with its wheels off the ground really doesn't want to move even in low range!
If you've got a change in texture it maybe is heat damaged, hopefully you can get the part number. Sure the least we can do is get the pin out to allow you to test.
Next time try some solder paste on the IC first, heat then add your wire 'tinned' already. If you're worried about too much heat use an additional heat sink (negative locking tweezers may be suitable).
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