Hardware
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: Hiding under the M60
Posts: 13050
  
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not claiming any expertise here but the notion that 5w/30 is "petrol engine" oil doesn't consider that the tdv6 revs much higher than "proper" truck diesel engines ever do, obviously not to the dizzy heights of small short-stroke petrol cars (and nowhere near motorcycle engines !!) but about double what the big engines do. .
Dean
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2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer  ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
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 15th Jul 2017 9:29 am |
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hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482
 
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Thats the point, people are using the correct oil and doing early oil changes, and still getting spun bearings.
Maybe 5/30 is fine for the first 150,000 miles then something a bit thicker ?
I have to say, i wonder how many people are now the original owner, and therefore know the history of their vehicle well.
Andi.
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| 15th Jul 2017 9:56 am |
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jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 769
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Most of the wear takes place in the first few seconds of start up, while the engine oil circulates and builds pressure, fully synthetic oils have an additive for just that reason. There are several write ups of the big end bearings spinning in the con rods due to pickup the the bearings, when that happens the bearing shell blocks the oil gallery and engine failure will follow very soon after.
Mobile 1 oil was my choice as the turbos on the truck engines at work spin in the region of 170 000 rpm, the rev per minute are not an issue, it is the oils life at high millage of use and the initial startup phase protection.
As above change at you peril. Im happy with my choice.
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| 15th Jul 2017 9:57 am |
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miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
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Hi everyone
I have a 2006 TDV6 HSE auto with 123,000 miles on clock full service history from LR dealers up to before I brought it back in April, the garage I bought it from stamped the service book as being serviced but i have my doubts as the oil is absolutely black, ( done 2500 miles sinced picked up) so will be doing an oil change as soon as possible, just a few questions before I start:
1/ Seen a post where Castrol GTX stop start was used what are your thoughts on this oil(I know this is a huge subject on its own)
2/Also seen that someone suggested not to remove oil filter until refilled with oil to prevent oil draining from oil pump & to ensure good oil pressure on start up.
Will be getting new sump plug from LR dealer, what is best type of oil filter to use?
I'm a fairly compitent diy mechanic so feel confident doing the job.
Any help or suggestions much appreciated.
This is a great site with so much great information.
Tom
Tom
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| 28th Jul 2017 7:59 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10770
 
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It's quiet normal for these diesels to have black oil straight after service. So it may well have been done.
Have a look at other indicators. E.g. Air filter.
Fuel filters (below drivers seat) should be changed every 2 years.
with point 2. It will keep some dirty oil in the system so it depends what you want.
Mahle is the oem filter I believe
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| 28th Jul 2017 8:16 pm |
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miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
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Hi Pete
Thanks for the quick response, your point about the oil is a good one I will check air filter in the morning & see if it is new, if I need to change oil I will get filter you suggest.
As these engines seem to be super sensetive to oil pressure I would rather leave a little dirty oil in than have no oil pressure on start up after oil change
Once again thanks.
Tom
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| 28th Jul 2017 8:56 pm |
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hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482
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To be honest, if you are going to the dealer anyway for sump plug, just pick up an oil filter while you'r there.
Make sure you fit it properly 
Andi.
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| 29th Jul 2017 8:38 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10770
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Well I don't believe it.
I've fitted a fair few oil filters, but today I find mine crushed
I always fit the nipple into the bottom first and then put the cap on.
It was a bearchmac one.
What I think happens is when it gets to the end of the thread and the spring pulls it into the housing it pulls the nipple out.
I'm not sure how I prevent this?
Apart from learning what the thread feels like with out a filter.
And remove the filter to ensure it's not crushed and refit. But the last fit could be wrong.
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| 4th Aug 2017 6:32 pm |
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hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482
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May make no difference ? However, for what it costs, I always get a sump plug and an oil filter from the LR dealers.
Andi.
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| 4th Aug 2017 6:54 pm |
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BrettKaz
Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: Canberra
Posts: 209
 
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Pete K wrote:Well I don't believe it.
I've fitted a fair few oil filters, but today I find mine crushed
I always fit the nipple into the bottom first and then put the cap on.
It was a bearchmac one.
What I think happens is when it gets to the end of the thread and the spring pulls it into the housing it pulls the nipple out.
I'm not sure how I prevent this?
Apart from learning what the thread feels like with out a filter.
And remove the filter to ensure it's not crushed and refit. But the last fit could be wrong.
A couple of thoughts..
The bearchmac may be more paperery than the LR one which is very much like cardboard and may resist crushing and stand up to the spring better ... I'm with Andi ... the LR ones are pretty cheap not sure why you wouldn't use those.
I make sure I screw up by hand as much as possible including preseating the rubber ring as high as possible so you can't confuse the rubber resistance and the collapsing filter. I always do it at least twice so I can feel all the resistance points.
Having said all that it can still happen - manual says to pre fit the filter in the cap (I assume to ensure it can spin freely before seating it). Like you I can't bring myself to do it that way although I have tested it and been happy with the outcome. It's certainly a  but the good news is you got away with it ... no dead engine or turbo Btw did you notice any indicators of low oil pressure ... was the engine more 'tapperty' or anything?
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| 4th Aug 2017 8:03 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10770
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I wet the element paper with oil that time.
Symptom was that the oil light took a while to go out at startup.
Measured pressure was ok though
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| 4th Aug 2017 8:35 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10770
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Well I had a play with the crushed one.
Clearly they are designed to spin round and find the hole, as it did easily. So how on earth it wasn't in the hole!!!
Ordered a mahl one, but a britpart one arrived. Interesting this has a plastic structure through the middle to prevent you crushing them, so that's a cheap brand to consider for those wanting budget ones.
Anyway I decided to fit a cheap one I had. (save good one till oil change), and had to apply quite a force to get the nipple in. (despite lubing the O ring with oil  )
Of course you can't check your work as the canister retails the filter
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| 5th Aug 2017 8:26 pm |
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FakeTan
Member Since: 17 Aug 2017
Location: Cork
Posts: 39
  
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| Oil Change with Manual Pump |
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I pumped the oil with the Sealey TP6901 Manual Pump.
[https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-TP6901-Vacuum-Extractor-Manual/dp/B000WZJ6U8]
General YouTube video below outlining how to use oil pump
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRAUm7JU4no]
On 1st attempt, I only managed to extract about 2 and half Litres of oil.
There is an art involved in ensuring all the oil is removed. The tube that enters the engine via dipstick holder needs to be moved up and down from time to time in order to get all of the oil sucked out. As you progress with the pumping, you will need to move the tube further down into the engine.
As a general rule, you need to check that at least 5-6 L of oil have been extracted into the container. Otherwise, it means that you have not successfully removed all of the oil.
When you see bubbles in the tube of the pump then this means you have either removed all of the oil or the tube is not down far enough within the dipstick holder.
When you see the tube in solid black then this means the oil is pumping out. You will also feel strong pressure on pumping down manually. This indicates that oil is pumping out effectively.
It took me at least 30-40 minutes to extract all of the oil manually. This was my 2nd attempt and perhaps this may improve on further practice.
Oil Filter
In regards to the oil filter, I followed the instructions as suggested in this posting and it was perfect.
In order to check where to insert the new filter nipple correctly, I had to kneel on the bumper to see the "nipple holder" in the engine from above.
I carefully placed the nipple on the new filter into its nipple holder on the engine by hearing a click.
As stated in this posting, removing the old oil filter from the casing requires a bit of elbow grease. You could use pliers or vice grips on the nipple of the filter to remove it. Make sure that you do not damage the oil filter casing.
Make sure to remove the old rubber seal around the filter holder and replace it with the new rubber seal. Grease the new rubber seal with some oil.
I tightened the filter casing using a torque of 25 Newtons.
Filling New Oil
Mann Filter EUR15
I proceeded to refill the engine with the new oil. Castrol Magnetec 5w30 fully synthetic (Halfords 30 euroes 4 litres ) . It takes about 5.7 L be careful not to over fill.
Overall, I did the whole process in about an hour in a public car park space with no leak or mess. I am quite chuffed with my 1st oil change. Total cost 75 euro.
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| 17th Aug 2017 10:47 am |
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garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
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As you have a 2.7 why did you muck around with pumps and things - why not do what the rest of us do and that is remove the sump plug, drain all the oil and refill via the filler cap?
As far as the filter goes I just put the filter by itself in the correct spot with the nipple in the hole amd then I push on the cover and screw it down - all seals and thread oiled up.
Garry
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| 17th Aug 2017 11:10 am |
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FakeTan
Member Since: 17 Aug 2017
Location: Cork
Posts: 39
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It was more of a convenience really to use the pump than work down under (if you pardon the pun!).
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| 18th Aug 2017 11:09 am |
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