DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
  
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I dont think you'll get anything from D3matt. I havnt seen him for ages since he sold the D3 .. Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
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D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
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 12th Jul 2009 10:37 am |
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evo8
Member Since: 29 Jan 2008
Location: Zalesie
Posts: 289
 
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did it yesterday - good instructions. I needed also a 15mm spanner as 2 bolts use a 15mm nut - so just add this to the equipment needed 
13mm spanner or socket
15mm spanner
32mm spanner or socket 2013 D4 TDV6 S; Baltic Blue; IID Tool BT
2007 D3 TDV6 SE, Auto; club Faultmate MSV2
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| 21st Jul 2009 7:10 am |
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nigelc
Member Since: 16 Apr 2008
Location: leicestershire
Posts: 267
  
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Hi, need to do an intermediate oil change as mileage a bit high this year - no-one will convince me to leave semi-synthetic oil in an engine for 15,000 miles (if you think franchised dealers use full synthetic, dream on!)
Just wondered if its possible to fill the element with oil before fitting to avoid possible oil starvation when engine is restarted. I haven't changed oil for nearly 30 years but always used to fill up oil filter before attaching.
Also, on my 54 plate, understand only need 13mm socket and 32mm or filter housing (and torque wrench) Do you really need special LR tool?
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| 16th Mar 2010 12:49 pm |
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nigelc
Member Since: 16 Apr 2008
Location: leicestershire
Posts: 267
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nigelc wrote:Hi, need to do an intermediate oil change as mileage a bit high this year - no-one will convince me to leave semi-synthetic oil in an engine for 15,000 miles (if you think franchised dealers use full synthetic, dream on!)
Just wondered if its possible to fill the element with oil before fitting to avoid possible oil starvation when engine is restarted. I haven't changed oil for nearly 30 years but always used to fill up oil filter before attaching.
Also, on my 54 plate, understand only need 13mm socket and 32mm or filter housing (and torque wrench) Do you really need special LR tool?
Also, do I need 5 or 6 litres?
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| 16th Mar 2010 12:50 pm |
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nigelc
Member Since: 16 Apr 2008
Location: leicestershire
Posts: 267
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Had a look underneath this morning after jacking up to off road height - given possibility of suspension to drop itself to access height, definitely would not want 2.7 tons resting on my chest!
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| 18th Mar 2010 11:41 am |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Nigel,
I don't think you can fill it with oil as the plastic cup is upside down. so would leak out. The filter is at the top of the engine, but the oil pick up from teh bottom, so you shouldn't experience notceable wear on startup as long as it's not revved up.
Don't think you need the special LR tool, a screwdriver or a garden hand fork seem to be good alternatives judging by the posts before.
I'd get 6 litres personally, fill it with 5 and then after starting her up, & getting the oil circulating, check the level & top up as appropriate.  Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
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| 18th Mar 2010 11:54 am |
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nigelc
Member Since: 16 Apr 2008
Location: leicestershire
Posts: 267
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Gareth wrote:Yes, I suggest that a secure pair of axle stands would be ultimately safe. Even if they are only placed under the chassis with the car in off-road height to just catch it if it were to drop.
Where should the axle stands support the front chassis members?
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| 26th May 2010 9:01 pm |
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nigelc
Member Since: 16 Apr 2008
Location: leicestershire
Posts: 267
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Finally managed to get round to change oil, with help from some friends wither better facilities. Actually seems to run better and oil light goes out more quickly - I'm a convert to more frequent oil changes.
One problem is that used trolley jack under suspension arm to get clearance to put axle stand under chassis member. The axle stand gets in the way of the bottom plate, so ended up re-attaching it with trolley jack only - definitely not recommended. I don't see how I could do this at home without relying on the car jack, as would have to remove axle stand to get plate on. Said friend recommended cutting a hole in the plate to allow access to the drain plug - any downsides to this?
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| 11th Jun 2010 11:54 am |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Just place the axle stands a little further back. I did mine with Axle stands no problem.
As for cutting a hole, that's great, but you just know that you will end up with a load of oil caught up on the inside of the tray. Besides, you can clear out any mud etc that is caught under when you take the tray off. Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 11th Jun 2010 11:59 am |
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nigelc
Member Since: 16 Apr 2008
Location: leicestershire
Posts: 267
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Bodsy wrote:Just place the axle stands a little further back. I did mine with Axle stands no problem.
As for cutting a hole, that's great, but you just know that you will end up with a load of oil caught up on the inside of the tray. Besides, you can clear out any mud etc that is caught under when you take the tray off.
Good point!
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| 11th Jun 2010 12:01 pm |
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Phil1644
Member Since: 14 Nov 2009
Location: Probably still in work!
Posts: 303
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When I first got my D3 it had LR "service" history which basically meant that some mechanic had removed and replaced the sump guard once a year without bothering to grease the bolts holding the sumpguard in place and of course had overtightened them putting it back on. When I got it, I had to take it to my local garage and get their help to remove each bolt. I then replaced them using loads of grease to prevent them seizing etc, and only tighten them to a sensible amount. I have now done two oil changes without raising the car at all, there is enough room to drop & replace the sump guard and the oil without jacks or raising the suspension height.
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| 11th Jun 2010 6:05 pm |
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chalky
Member Since: 21 Aug 2008
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 3145
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Phil !
Confirm please that you can change oil without jacking up the vehicle and fidling about with trolley jacks ? Axle stands ? or ramps !
I,ll be honest ! this farting about is the only thing thats stopped me from changing mine in the interim ! and it is due now !
Cheers mate..............
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| 12th Jun 2010 7:16 am |
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Phil1644
Member Since: 14 Nov 2009
Location: Probably still in work!
Posts: 303
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Chalky, the only operation under the car is to drop the sump guard which is quite heavy, I support it with a couple of bricks and a wooden block whilst I undo all the bolts. On my D3 these are now well greased so come undone easily with my ratchet wrench. Once all the bolts are undone simply carefully remove the bricks and slide the sumpguard out the way. This exposes the sump plug (oil drain plug). Undo that making sure you have a large bowl or container ready, there's loads of oil!. Then change the filter as per the instructions earlier in this thread. When you undo the filter housing a little bit more oil will drop out the sump. I could then remove the filter from the housing without a special tool, just a good yank with pliers! Then refit a new sump plug, put your sump guard back in place, shove the bricks and wooden block between it and the floor to lift it back into position while you put all the bolts back in. Refill with oil & off you go. No jack or axle stand needed.
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| 12th Jun 2010 8:13 am |
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PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
 
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I've done mine without jacking the D3 up too....BUT...don't even think of doing it without putting at least some axles stands under the car - just in case.....
They don't even have to be supporting the weight of the D3, but need to be able to hold it if it drops, and they need to hold it high enough so that you don't get squashed. I usually try and position them so that there is around 5mm of clearance between the chassis and the top of the axle stands.
I would also fill with oil and check everything is ok with the engine running for 5 minutes before re-fitting the sump guard. Fitting the sump guard should be the last thing you do 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Buckingham Blue
2007 Golf GT DSG
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| 12th Jun 2010 8:22 am |
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chalky
Member Since: 21 Aug 2008
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 3145
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Just thought i'd pass on my apreciation to everyone who has commented the thread !
It really is that simple to change,
As advised i have daubed copperslip on all the bolts and re fitted, mine is a 57 plate and all the heads were 13mm and so was the sump plug ! i fitted a new sump plug as a precautionary measure and dropped the new Oil Filter in to the recess to locate the feed hole, popped the cover on and wound it down and then couldnt fing my torque wrench 
Cup of tea later and a phone call duley located the whereabouts of said implement and i'm awaiting its arrival now.
I used a tent hook puller to pull the element from the cover, worked a treat
Added my Mobil 1 ESP of the correct grade thanks to OILMAN i'll be on the phone shortly to order another bottle to go with the half i've now got sat on the shelf in the garage !
Thanks to all
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| 14th Jul 2010 5:07 pm |
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