Transmission fault appeared on display,engine stopped few seconds later. Recovered to LR Indy garage and notified that engine seized hard.
Will not know exact cause until engine removed for replacement and "Post Mortem" carried out.
Cambelts and oil pump replaced at 91K-main Dealer
Cambelts replaced at 150K
Oil & filter replaced religiously every 5-6K miles (Mannol fully synthetic). No oil loss between services.Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Another Gizmo..GAP BT. Let's see how it compares with JLR IDD/SSD v.163
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
22nd Feb 2021 11:45 am
Frapp
Member Since: 19 Dec 2008
Location: Norff Zummerzet
Posts: 1655
I have to change my original vote to.................................................
Yes D3 snapped crank @111000 milesMember of the carrot crank club
Embarrassingly in for the 2nd round, bought another two
D3 Jack Russell carrier
D4 Landmark for towing duties
27th Sep 2021 1:40 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5036
I feel for you, so what now?
Options are dwindling as "S" types dry up and LR prices are sky high.(assuming you can get hold of one) Recon market is not advised.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
27th Sep 2021 1:48 pm
Peakwayfarer
Member Since: 25 Apr 2016
Location: Uk
Posts: 434
[quote="Frapp"]I have to change my original vote to.................................................
Yes D3 snapped crank @111000 miles[/quote]
Not good news, but 90,000 more than on my D4!
27th Sep 2021 2:08 pm
Frapp
Member Since: 19 Dec 2008
Location: Norff Zummerzet
Posts: 1655
Frapp wrote:
I have to change my original vote to.................................................
Yes D3 snapped crank @111000 miles
Its all sorted and back on the road with an engine from "something" thats done 75000 milesMember of the carrot crank club
Embarrassingly in for the 2nd round, bought another two
D3 Jack Russell carrier
D4 Landmark for towing duties
Transmission fault appeared on display,engine stopped few seconds later. Recovered to LR Indy garage and notified that engine seized hard.
Will not know exact cause until engine removed for replacement and "Post Mortem" carried out.
Cambelts and oil pump replaced at 91K-main Dealer
Cambelts replaced at 150K
Oil & filter replaced religiously every 5-6K miles (Mannol fully synthetic). No oil loss between services.
After 6 months being mucked about by an Indie in North Wales who did nothing during that time, I got the car uplifted and taken to an Indie in Birmingham who sorted it out in a Month.
The oil pump .had not failed and the cambelt was intact, probable cause of failure was a spun Crank bearing and subsequent Conrod deciding to poke itself through the block, Replaced engine with one that had covered 87k guaranteed miles with full history which was stripped and given a full inspection. Oil pump replaced, cambelt replaced, water pump replaced, glow plugs replaced and injectors serviced. Torque converter replaced, All brake lines front to rear replaced whilst body was off together with ARB bushes. Mileage at time of breakdown in February approx 184K.
When car arrived at B'ham from N. Wales Indie, the new Exide battery which was fitted last October was replaced with a flat old battery that was probably fitted to a Mini, the Gearbox undertray was missing and also the front towbar which I bought last year from Watling towbars under the forum purchase deal has also been "lost" although the tow hitch was still in the rear side compartment.
A load of Cowboys who told me that their regular customers come first and they didn't really want my business anyway !!
The car is now back in France and running fine. A very expensive exercise but well worth it.
Can't get an undertray anywhere but will keep looking. Only one job to do-replace the LR detachable towbar lock knob-when I can get the seized roll pin out-it won't shift-looks like I will have to destroy the plastic release knob to get the pin out. I will do that after the new one arrivesRelocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Another Gizmo..GAP BT. Let's see how it compares with JLR IDD/SSD v.163
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
27th Sep 2021 8:23 pm
Kloui21
Member Since: 06 Jul 2021
Location: Nairobi
Posts: 3
D3 TDV6 \ D4 T\SDV6 - Crank Failure survey
wondering how many are still running their LR3s with the original oil pump! read somewhere it states that a few LR3 from a certain lot/years that have a better oil pump! am still on original oil pump tdv6 late 2008 model.
20th Mar 2023 9:00 am
KevinD3
Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 1272
@Rowlejohn
Which Birmingham Indie did you use? Always worth keeping a list of the local good ones
Also which undertrays are you missing? I’ve got a couple spare from swapping to shields so you may be able to collect on your way through next time you’re in Blighty2008 HSE Stornoway Grey
My Wife thinks the D3 is a hobby, The D3 thinks the wife is 💕
Hi Kevin
Jamesons 4x4, Summer Lane, Birmingham B19.
Been around years, LR mechanic then Service Manager for main dealer before starting up on his own back in the early 80's.
Has latest LR diagnostics and knows all Landies inside out, his forte though is Discoveries and Rangies from early models to the latest.
Has Mechanics working for him and about 3 or 4 lifts in the shop, has expertise for body removals. Very knowledgeable and helpful and his rates are favourable.Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Another Gizmo..GAP BT. Let's see how it compares with JLR IDD/SSD v.163
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
20th Mar 2023 5:50 pm
Steamyrotter
Member Since: 03 Jul 2017
Location: Somewhere near Somewhere else in Somerset
Posts: 117
My14 (63) D4 SDV6 122k miles
Fresh oil and new oil pump 200 miles prior.
Admittedly not stripped to prove it but all the signs there bar seized engine.
Hadn’t been to a dealer for at least 2 years before I had it, and I’ve done my own servicing since (3 years)
Apart from I had a garage do the timing belt for me in Dec 21 as I didn’t have anywhere dry I could do it!
So no chance of LR goodwill or warranty claim which I was aware of when I got it anyway.
(Unless they magically own up to it being a crup design.. But since they haven’t yet I’m pretty sure that will never change!)
Now I’m over the initial shock factor I’ll start on it soon and hopefully find it wasn’t related to the sump replacement!!
Just hoping it’s not damaged anything structural.
On plus side I can now change the rocker covers for new and flush the gearbox which I was planning to do later this year.
Now glad I didn’t struggle trying to do the former.If things were meant to be easy, then I will soon complicate them....
Please note...
Anything I say is only from my personal experience and knowledge..
I don't assume to know everything, and know there is a lot I don't know..
But then I could be talking .. O
16th May 2023 5:39 pm
SimonDJUK
Member Since: 07 Oct 2020
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 10
I've not investigated to confirm yet but based on the preceeding noise, failure mode and subsequently seized engine, I suspect my D3 snapped its crank on Tuesday afternoon at about 183K miles.
I'd fitted the correct replacement oil pump about 8K miles ago when I did the timing belt and the engine had shown improved oil pressure (based on time to extinguish oil pressure light on starting) since then. Engine was running the correct oil and either a genuine LR or Mahle filter (I forget which the last I fitted was but believe they're identical parts in different boxes anyway) with last change about 4K miles ago.
Engine suddenly developed a barely audible rattle whilst crusing at about 60mph with a light/neutral throttle opening. This increased to a severe rattle as I lifted off the throttle in reaction to and to try to better hear the noise. As I was in a place where it would have been extremely dangerous to immediately stop (successive multiple lane split/merge of dual carriageway and motorway slip roads) I had to keep going, during which time the rattle varied between severe when the engine was loaded by engine braking on the overrun or (very light and tentative!) acceleration to keep moving and much less severe when on a neutral throttle and no acceleration/engine braking loads applied. I was aiming to limp it to the safety of a layby beyond the roundabout I was approaching, but the engine died as I lifted off for the roundabout. Managed to coast through the roundabout and get fully off the carriageway onto the relative safety of the verge, if not quite as far as the layby I was hoping to reach.
Points to take away. No oil pressure light until the engine completely died or major noise or drama when it did. The steering is pretty darn heavy when you lose the power assistance, so worth having that in mind and being prepared to haul on the steering wheel a bit if you're ever unfortunate enough to encounter a dead engine coasting scenario which involves negotiating a roundabout or junction. Also, I was mindful to avoid pressing the brake pedal until I was certain about where I wanted to stop so there was still some vacuum in the servo to give the brakes some oomph when needed.
If it can be removed with the engine in the vehicle, I may drop the sump in order to inspect/marvel at the damage. Then, a decision to make on what to do with a very dead but otherwise rather nice D3 which I'm still oddly fond of despite it throwing this pretty serious tantrum.
8th Dec 2023 3:15 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5036
You can get it out by removing the front of the vehicle, but it might be worth trying to source another engine before you take that plunge. Your current block will very likely be warped and unusable from the energy released during the catastrophic crank failure.
You'll need to fit your own fuel pump and injectors and a few other bits from your old engine. If you do go for it fit all new belts, idlers, water pump, oil pump, and central block water outlet.
No matter what the vendor says!!! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
8th Dec 2023 6:34 pm
SimonDJUK
Member Since: 07 Oct 2020
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 10
Thanks PROFSR G, all good points. However, having spent this evening thinking it thorough and costing things up, I'm not sure it makes economic sense to re-engine.
The torque converter has a very minor shudder and the transmission itself must be pretty tired at over 180K miles, so I'd want to replace those if I were going to invest the time and money in replacing the motor. I was about to drop several hundred £££s on new suspension control arms/bushes all round, inner and outer track rod ends, etc as all are getting a bit sloppy. I also suspect the dampers are tired as I'm sure the body control has declined, but the air suspension tends to mask this to some degree. That little lot, plus all the ongoing niggles of increasingly brittle wiring looms, various minor but still annoying points of water ingress, random electric gremlins, failing door lock actuators, ageing diffs and transfer case, and even trivial stiff like a sagging headlining make me think that, sadly, it's time to call it a day and part it out. All the above peripheral stuff I can keep on top of, just not sure I want add an engine swap to a potentially short lived replacement to that usual upkeep.
It really does seem a shame to do this as I'd got the car to the point where literally every single thing worked (until the next parking sensor went a week later that is) and it went through its last MOT with no advisories. I also really do like it as a vehicle to the point of often electing to drive purely by preference over the much newer, much lower mileage, much faster, much more economical and vastly more dynamic hot hatch sitting on the drive beside it.
Mostly though, we have (had) the Disco as a tow car used to pull a horse trailer, and I simply can't take the risk of breaking down when I have the trailer and two horses in tow. The recovery options for trailers containing live animals are severely limited, tend to be slow as a result, and the risk the horses could be exposed to whilst awaiting recovery for an extended period and then transferring them to another vehicle is unacceptable to us. Of course anything can break down at any time, but in 33 years of driving I've never before had such a sudden and conclusive breakdown with no warning whatsoever. I also never thought the broken crank thing would happen to me as the occurrences are so relatively few, but it did, although thankfully without the horses in tow.
Given this experience, the same issue existing on the D4 and potentially also on the D5 (and those being out of budget anyway), much as I've loved my three years of Discovery ownership, I think I have to look elsewhere for now. The obvious option is a Toyota, either Hilux or Land Cruiser, any of the other Japanese pick ups, or to keep a little risk in the game, perhaps a Touareg. Not keen on any of the Jeep or Mercedes alternatives. It's either that or go backwards to the robust simplicity of either a D2 or Defender, as whilst battling against the corrosion may keep me busy, there's not much that will stop either on the spot.
Needs some thinking about. Definitely going to miss the Disco, but ultimately, it's a tool that I need to be able to trust, and my trust of it, its immediate kind, and JLR products in general had been somewhat dented.... although I am starting to consider looking into the reliability of the TDV8s in FFRRs, fool as I am!
9th Dec 2023 12:12 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5036
TDV8 is pretty much bomb proof but the early ones did have a tendency to gobble up turbos.
If it were me changing from my D3's I'd be going after the 4.4TDV8 yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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.. O
