Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4537
Had the dreaded upper tailgate cable failure in the week. I put off doing it till yesterday. DM's guide is perfect!
Although I broke the trim on the lower tailgate getting the carpet panel off, everything else went to plan. I made a replacement cable hook out of some 3mm steel rod, clamped on with a big choc block. Seems to be working fine! I'll buy a new water buffer and top trim, then all should be back to normal.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
Manual Release Cable Attached Directly to Lock
For long trips I have rear drawers and a cargo barrier, so the potential for an inoperable tailgate has been bothering me. So recently I decided to proactively install a manual release cable directly to the lock with assistance from a friend who had already been through the experience after his electric actuator died. His is MY10 and mine MY14 but it seemed an excellent opportunity to do it early with assistance from someone who'd been forced into being an expert.
Some of the steps are of course already well covered in this thread. But what I haven't seen elsewhere is the use of a bicycle cable for the manual release. Using a bike cable rather than just a wire trace allows the cable to be run through bends and be tucked away and still be easy to actuate from the 2nd row area. And attaching the manual release directly to the lock seems like the best option because you will still have manual operation regardless of what element fails (cable or electric actuator).
Here it is under the 3rd row seats but I might even move this to under the carpet. The pull handle tucks under the 2nd row floor mat, not shown here.
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In this photo you can see the factory cable that pulls towards bottom left of photo.
The manual cable is added to pull opposite direction, which is the same actuation because it is the other side of the pivot.
You can also see how the bike cable is attached.
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Complete actuator and lock removed from tailgate. More details on the task included in the pdf document.
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Close up view of the bracket attached to the lock that hold the manual cable.
Did this fix last night after changing both switch and more recently the actuator. just make sure you properly connect the wiring to the latch before reassembling and feeling smug otherwise its disassembly again because the car wont lock!
9th May 2022 8:38 am
Crackers
Member Since: 18 Sep 2013
Location: Camberley, Surrey
Posts: 163
Hi Guys - I was hoping to never have to revisit this thread after sorting out my tailgate latch back in September 2013, but alas, I need to pick your brains please!
The upper tailgate did that half-latch thing where it is caught by the lower tailgate catch but not fully closed. I gave it a nudge to close the last 5mm or so, which was fine, but then it then refused to open again. The upper tailgate release actuator operates when the upper tailgate switch is actuated. I tried centrally locking and unlocking, plus the dash button, but no joy.
I did a pretty solid repair when I mended the actuator cable end 9 years ago, so whilst surprised that this might have gone again, I dived back in through the rear panel to get it all apart. Last time I did this I easily pushed the outer cable grommet from the steel actuator housing and was able to pull the inner cable to release the catch. This time it does not want to shift despite reasonable force. This got me wondering as to whether the inner cable was still connected to the actuator (as mended by me) which would explain why I met with resistance trying to get the cable free from the housing....? (I think I spotted a bit of black plastic rolling around free in the actuator through one of the corner holes though, so something seems awry).
Next, I tried the coat hanger trick mentioned earlier in this thread. After a few attempts, I managed to get a pull on the cable and their was a hopeful 'click' from the tailgate catch. I went to the back of the vehicle to find that the upper tailgate had partially released. It was just like it was before I gave it a nudge closed at the start of this saga! I can't seem to get any further 'pull' using the coat hanger method and, as expected, the car won't centrally lock as it senses the tailgate isn't fully closed.
I'm left wondering if the issue is not with the the cable/actuator but with the catch fitted to the lower tailgate... It's almost as if its not opening fully. Maybe when it didn't close properly something got out of sync with the catch's rotating clasps?
I'm giving up until tomorrow but would welcome any ideas/suggestions you might have about what to try next - either with the actuator (which I may try to remove with the tailgates still closed...) or with the catch.
A couple of photos:
I find stuffing three tennis balls between tailgate and plastic trim helps maintain space to work in:
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The not quite open 'gap' I have managed to restore by pulling on the actuator cable using the coat hanger method:
17th Nov 2022 5:02 pm
Crackers
Member Since: 18 Sep 2013
Location: Camberley, Surrey
Posts: 163
Update:
I had to close the tailgate again in order to lock the vehicle, so was back to square one.
Just found five minutes to have another go with the coat hanger and on hooking and pulling the tailgate half unlocked again. Gave it another pull whilst pushing against the upper tailgate from inside the vehicle and 'hey-presto' - it's opened!
P*ssing with rain so I'll fix it tomorrow!
21st Nov 2022 4:03 pm
Crackers
Member Since: 18 Sep 2013
Location: Camberley, Surrey
Posts: 163
All sorted, hopefully to never fail again!
Here are a few pics to further help others who might come in need of this thread:
1) The bare lower tailgate and upper trim. Note the 4 catches that need to be unfasten by pulling the trim towards you (easiest with the tailgate horizontal)
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2) These catches
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3)That go into these slots
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4) The inside of the lower tailgate trim
5) My previous repair using a rivet failed where I'd bent the rivet to hook into the actuator (after 9 years!)
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6) The grommet that you can try to get out of the steel actuator housing, as described by others, in order to get hold of the cable to get the upper tailgate open. I couldn't get mine out and instead used the coat hanger method described by someone else in this thread, which worked well (in conjunction with a shove on the tailgate from inside!)
Click image to enlarge
7) The latch - easy to remove and refit from the lower tailgate. Remember to undo the electrical connector.
8) My fix, MkII. I filed a 4mm Allen key round to fit in the actuator hole and retaining clip. Rest of the key kept as a hex. Allen key cut to length and size of the 'hook' cut so as not to foul the actuator casing. Allen key and cable fitted into the brass bit from a large choc-block connector, lengths all checked to ensure hook fits in actuator and grommet in the frame with no undue slack or tension.
Back on the bench, screws tightened to clamp Allen key and cable in connector block, araldite applied to any voids at both ends with a cocktail stick and small tie wraps tightened around Allen key and cable at either end of the connecting block.
Click image to enlarge
9) Latch refitted and then cable connected to actuator and another small tie wrap tightened to ensure hook can't come out (not really needed, but what the heck!)
Latch actuation checked once actuator refitted (use a screw driver to close the latch) by operating the upper tailgate switch and before closing the upper tailgate! All good. Tailgate now operates as it should again and central locking tested. Trim panels and tailgate straps can all be refitted at leisure tomorrow!
22nd Nov 2022 5:21 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1676
On holiday in France buying loads of stuff to bring home one the car and the tailgate will not open ( either with handle or with key fob)..Will sort out when I get home but need advice on which parts I might ne
ed. My symptoms are as follows:
Using handle or key fob , mechanism sounds weak.
After trying to open , in some cases the car will not lock ,( beeping,), so I'm wondering if mechanism is staying unlocked?
Do you think it's the actuator ( my guess) or switch or something else?
Any advice gratefully received as I have a feeling I'm going to need the exact replacement part when I do get it open ( if I do manage to open it, otherwise I won't be able to close and lock it until I fix !
CheersGary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
8th Jun 2023 5:15 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1676
Just to say, for anyone else searching, I think I've found the answers I need in the following thread:
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/frigging-ta...g+tailgate
Between this thread and notes in that one I think I have 'how to' details too.
CheersGary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
9th Jun 2023 8:31 am
ABH
Member Since: 01 Oct 2013
Location: Fareham
Posts: 12
Thank you!
To everyone that's contributed to this thread, thank you! Didn't spot the actuator on the way out. It just packed up on our 2013, 107k D4. I levered the carpet off from the left hand side of the boot, looking at it from the inside and once in, used an Allen key to slide the actuator to the left. Managed to thoroughly shred the splash shield (EOT500013) getting the latch open and then the actuator out. replaced actuator with Amazon part https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0825JQZKZ. All back together now and works perfectly. Thanks all!MY13 D4 HSE Causeway Grey with Black Pack.
14th Jun 2023 7:22 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1676
Managed to get mine fixed using this thread and a few other hints on the other thread I linked above. We were in France when it went and got pulled over by security on the way back. Luckily I had an understanding security person who allowed me to open the doors and pull back the luggage cover (not easy from the inside) so he could take a look.
I couldn’t open the tailgate at all despite using the various techniques suggested here. I could hear the actuator trying, and after 3 attempts it would diminish to no noise at all ( ie not even trying to pull the latch) therefore I concluded the actuator was at fault but wasn’t sure about whether the latch cable end had broken off , which has been the issue mentioned for older cars in this thread. I purchased both parts from my local dealership as they were in stock and they agreed to take back anything I didn’t use.
I found my cable end was fine. See pic. Appears they have put a more robust end on the cable now. My car is a June 2015 , so not sure when this came in.
I only needed the new actuator (called a regulator by LR). Here is the part number detail on the package:
This regulator cost about £80 at the dealership. I wanted original, as I didn’t want further short term issues.
The latch part reference, which I didn’t need, is shown in the photo below. Latch cost about £115 at dealership. I took mine back and got a full refund.
The two parts of the job that took me the longest were getting the carpet levered out from under the trim from inside the car ( as my tailgate would not open). I was really worried about breaking the plastic trim, so gradually built up to using the force required to lever it up enough. My tip here is to remember you are levering the carpet panel out towards you ( inside the car) and not just trying to leaver it downwards. It has clips attaching it to the bottom tailgate so any force other than towards you will not unclip it. The plastic trim , therefore, has to be levered up enough to allow this. I used a trim removal tool and large screwdriver as suggested at start of this thread. The other part which took me a while was getting the clips off the bottom tailgate sides where the support cables attach. ( I can’t explain, you’ll have to try it yourself).
Straightforward job, thanks to the excellent information supplied by members of this forum, once you’ve got the nerve to lever out the top tailgate trim enough.
Thanks all who supplied info , and especially DM for sharing the overall technique in so much detail at the start of this thread.
CheersGary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
22nd Jun 2023 4:46 pm
SpiderBaby D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1412
My lad replaced his actuator at the weekend as it wasn't releasing the upper tailgate.
Whilst doing it he went "belt & braces" and added an emergency pull fabricated out of 3mm braided wire and wire clamps.
The cable exits the side of the trim via a 6mm grommet.
He tested it several times successfully without issues.
For the cost (less than £10 in parts - enough to do two so one for mine) and an extra 15 minutes it seemed a worthwhile job.I see no ships........
Wouldn't have chosen NOW to do it as I'd just started ripping the plumbing out under the bathroom sink ... but it is what it is .
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
It's showing 24 degrees on the dashboard and I own a black Discovery, so I'm baking in the boot.
This also means the carpet came away from the backing sheet too easily, but eventually I'm at the stage of pushing the cable out of the mechanism ... how hard do you have to push ? seems i'm about to break something.
The water-shedder has peeled away - due to the heat ? - but it still tore - and I can get my hand in the space around the cable, but still won't shift.
Just charging the endoscope so I can have a better look at what's going on.
Tried WD40 to see if it's just a tired actuator... no joy.
Did I mention it was hot ?.
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
18th Sep 2024 2:07 pm
Crackers
Member Since: 18 Sep 2013
Location: Camberley, Surrey
Posts: 163
1st time I had to do this a screw driver tip against the grommet dislodged it with a whack. Second time I had to repair it no amount of force would dislodge the grommet (see my post(s) above) so I used the coat hanger trick. After a bit of fishing around I managed to hook the wire inside the casing, pull up hard and pop the latch open.
Well ... had to call on International Rescue in the shape of ProfsG, and a bigger screwdriver, but it's done.
I'll create a printable version of DM's guide and add a few extra photos when I'm done.
Cable was/is secure so it's solenoid I need, but for now I can at least lock the bloody thing and get on with the plumbing!
Bigger screwdriver-
Click image to enlarge
.
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
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