Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2771
Turbo Actuator Rod and linkage access TDV6 D3
Whats the best/easiest way to get at it to see if it’s starting to seize up?
The Turbo appears to be coming in with a bit of a surge at times at the moment, and I’ve already checked both hoses and the Intercooler as best I can to detect any leaks or splits.
I want to see if the actuator rod is starting to seize up and get some lubrication on it, but need to know if it’s easier to start stripping bits out the way from the top or the bottom. Obviously I’m assuming you can do it without complete turbo removal.
I did see a post that said you can get to the rod with a screwdriver if you remove the battery and it’s tray, but I can’t see how that would work as the inner wheel arch appears to be under the battery tray.
Thanks
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
1st Jul 2012 7:31 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72968
Easiest way.
Click image to enlarge
Dealer tried freeing up mine & lubricating it, didn't work for more than a couple of months. Turbo changed but was before linkage kit was available.
1st Jul 2012 7:34 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2771
Mmmm, unfortunately my garage roof isn't high enough
I did read all about your Turbo changing experiances when I did a search earlier, hope I don't need to go that far as I'm hoping that getting a bit of lube to it before it siezes up will be a good thing.
Anyone have any less drastic solutions.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
1st Jul 2012 7:40 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72968
Hope it works for you but had a torrid 9 months with the car shutting down due to problems with turbo, MAP sensor & POS fuel filter. All good fun.
1st Jul 2012 7:46 pm
Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1788
Not easy Have you had a look at gecko frs' post above in here
It will give you an idea of the access which is V tight, I think a combination of wheel arch (removing shields) and battery tray combined with a large screwdriver you could free it and lubricate it from above which if successful would only last a short time due to the heat Eventually you'll have to replace the rod as the ball socket (I think its the lower one) usually siezes metal-to-metal so it would be a short time fix but hopefully identify it as the rod I think Disco_Mikey may have the secret of how to replace the rod 'in situ' but I just couldn't see it
I may be interested in finding out how to do that...... I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
2nd Jul 2012 7:34 am
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2771
Biffysun wrote:
Have you had a look at gecko frs' post above in here
It was Geckos posts that prompted me into asking really, when I saw how difficult it is to get the whole Turbo out.
Good write up by the way
I’m sure others on here have lubricated the rod with the turbo in place, but can’t find the posts now.
This really is a case of trying to do something about it before it is a real issue. If I could see it from the top I’d try dribbling some lubrication down a tube directed in the right place if nothing else.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
2nd Jul 2012 9:53 am
Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1788
getting a view of it is hard, the way the turbo sits, the rod linkage faces the engine and I'm sure there is a small heat shield covering it In conversation with DM a few months ago he hinted that 'removal' of that small shield was the secret (but don't quote me on that!) I had replaced mine by then as I didn't want to go through the pain and frustration ever again! If you do get as far as the linkage, it should be really loose and easily moved, on removal mine was solid, freed it with a shifter on the linkage and next morning solid again
2nd Jul 2012 10:46 am
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26754
I have it on very good authority that even if life depended on it, it would not be possible to change the arm and/or actuator without turbo removal.
2nd Jul 2012 1:09 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2771
Gareth wrote:
I have it on very good authority that even if life depended on it, it would not be possible to change the arm and/or actuator without turbo removal.
I can quite believe that, I just want to dribble some lubrication on it and maybe move it back and forth a little.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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Hope it works for you but had a torrid 9 months with the car shutting down due to problems with turbo, MAP sensor & POS fuel filter. All good fun. 
Have you had a look at gecko frs' post above in here
I think Disco_Mikey may have the secret of how to replace the rod 'in situ' but I just couldn't see it 
In conversation with DM a few months ago he hinted that 'removal' of that small shield was the secret (but don't quote me on that!) I had replaced mine by then as I didn't want to go through the pain and frustration ever again! 
If you do get as far as the linkage, it should be really loose and easily moved, on removal mine was solid, freed it with a shifter on the linkage and next morning solid again 
