Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2771
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Have done 5 actuator rods now, turbo in situ
The actuator can't be changed in place, and it is calibrated to each individual turbo...
Ah, but are you prepared to share how?
Thanks
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
2nd Jul 2012 9:14 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20795
There is not much to share. I tried to put a how-to together, but access is very limited, and the pictures are sh*t. Cant really see what is happening, and it wouldnt be worth showing how its done on the floor, as its nothing like doing it on the car...My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2771
Ah OK, but as the original question really, which way in, top or bottom?
I'd appreciate any guidance at all before I start stripping stuff out of the way.
Thanks
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
2nd Jul 2012 9:31 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20795
From the bottom, and side.
You need to remove the undertrays, part of the front subframe, and the diff mount bracket from below.
You need to break off the little heat shield around the actuator and arm, to allow access to them
From the side, you need to remove the heatshields, and on one car, it helped to remove the turbo oil feed pipe
Flexi-ratchet spanners, and long screwdrivers help, as does a 2nd pair of hands.
The bolt is in in bottom end, and is a ball-socket type fitting at the top. Just lever it off, and push it back onMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1788
Mikeys the man! where there's a will there's a way!
3rd Jul 2012 6:56 am
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2771
Many thanks indeed DM
I'll start stripping down until I can see if it's siezed at all, then if not too bad I've some really good anti sieze compound I use on the boat which I'll try in the first instance.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
3rd Jul 2012 9:16 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20795
If you remove the battery and tray, you can get a long magnet down onto the top end of the rod, and work it up and downMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
i find one of these bent to shape much better
8th Jul 2015 9:17 pm
HughMartin
Member Since: 30 Mar 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 751
I did mine from the top after removing the battery, battery tray and adjacent heat shield. I could just see the ball joint at the top of the actuator. A suitably shaped wire coat hanger allowed me to pull and push the actuator after I had sprayed WD40 over it using the red tube to direct it. Fault cured for over a year and then I sold the car.
PS. Geoff has beaten me to it with his post above.
8th Jul 2015 9:23 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20795
I find a length of copper brake pipe works best now, with a small 90 degree bend on the very end My D3 Build Thread
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where there's a will there's a way! 
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