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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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alternative to lifting links |
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Regards[/quote] I am interested in doing the same but worry about the extra work that the universals will have to do.[/quote]
I do not know if you are aware of the non mechanical, all electrical alternative out of Australia. This link is to a web site where one of the guys invented a box that inserts into the interior wiring in one of the foot wells and fools the height controller - gives you both more high and more low and seems to work.
http://www.llams.com.au/ 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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16th May 2011 4:08 pm |
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Namlandy
Member Since: 14 Sep 2008
Location: Namibia
Posts: 57
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Hi, I installed it more than a year ago and done a lot off offroading after that. If you have a look at your side shafts when it is in the normal hight, it seems to be not level but the wheel side higher than the diff side. If you do a 50mm lift it is a bit lower than the diff. Your ride will be a little bit harder than normal, to me for the better.
To get it to lift 50mm you need to cut the link 10mm. I cut mine after the first square after the rubber part. I then drill a 2.5mm hole in the link and tap it with 3mm. I cut threded rod and installed lock nuts on them. With this I can set and level my Disco 100%. Must say, this is the cheapest way to lift anny 4x4. It look better and offroad also better. I also build me pliers to remove normal links if I need to and that take me 5min.
I mail you some pictures if you need more info.
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16th May 2011 10:15 pm |
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discokirk
Member Since: 16 May 2011
Location: South Africa
Posts: 8
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Hi Namlandy,
Many thanks for your detailed reply. Yes it would be great to get your pictures - the more info the better. Did you re-do your wheel alignment after fitting the rods? I will PM you with my email address. 06 Disco TDV6 HSE
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17th May 2011 8:16 am |
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discokirk
Member Since: 16 May 2011
Location: South Africa
Posts: 8
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Re: alternative to lifting links |
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bbyer wrote:Regards I am interested in doing the same but worry about the extra work that the universals will have to do.[/quote]
I do not know if you are aware of the non mechanical, all electrical alternative out of Australia. This link is to a web site where one of the guys invented a box that inserts into the interior wiring in one of the foot wells and fools the height controller - gives you both more high and more low and seems to work.
http://www.llams.com.au/[/quote]
Hi Bbyer, Thanks for the info. I am not sure about adding more elcetronics. Here in Africa it is maybe not such a good idea. That is why Namlandy's approach of doing more via self-help is probably a better idea - if we break down in the wild here it can mean a flat bed trailer ride for thousands of miles if we can't fix the problem. 06 Disco TDV6 HSE
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17th May 2011 8:25 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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more electronics vs lifting links |
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discokirk wrote:bbyer wrote:Regards I am interested in doing the same but worry about the extra work that the universals will have to do. Thanks for the info. I am not sure about adding more electronics. Here in Africa it is maybe not such a good idea. That is why Namlandy's approach of doing more via self-help is probably a better idea - if we break down in the wild here it can mean a flat bed trailer ride for thousands of miles if we can't fix the problem.
The comment about "extra work" re the universals is I think, a valid one. I know that many who use the longer rods run them only in rough conditions and when they get back on real roads, remove the long rods and reinstall the standard rods. That is what makes the electronic version an interesting alternative. The normal rods stay on and a switch does the work.
The thousand mile flat bed truck recovery haul can be the same reality over here. About all I can say is that the local dealer has an arrangement with a particular hauler here who fortunately likes Land Rovers such that the cost of the recovery will most often be less than the scrap value of the LR3. That is supposed to make me feel better. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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17th May 2011 1:39 pm |
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timsamsara
Member Since: 15 Oct 2010
Location: Alcester, Warwickshire
Posts: 2
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NC wrote:Hello All
I am an engineer and I am currently investigating the failures associated with these compressors. First of all I am not linked to JLR or to the manufacturer of these compressors.
I am working for a company who has an interest in improving the reliability of the EAS system, including and starting with the compressor.
If anybody can provide failed compressors, or currently has an issue with the suspension system fitted to a vehicle then please let me know.
In return for helping us we will provide support to fix the problem, possibly for free including parts and labour (depends on the nature of the problem and what we can learn from it).
The aim is to provide Disco 3 users with a better product. Once an improved version is available we will looking to issue some compressors free of charge to a limited number of users for trial purposes. The units will be thoroughly tested at this stage and will have very minimal risk of failing once installed.
Please let me know if you are interested.
Thanks
Nick
Nick (or anyone that may have a contact for nick)
I am unable to pm you as i have not posted more than 3 times but i am very interested if you are still looking for subject D3s i only had mine replaced less than a year ago by my local LR dealer in Stratford upon avon and it has gone again.
Many thanks
Tim Mud glorious mud!
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17th May 2011 9:10 pm |
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Namlandy
Member Since: 14 Sep 2008
Location: Namibia
Posts: 57
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Hi all. I took a photo off the angle off the shafts, if you need to see what it will look like you can take it up to offroad hight and have look at them. I have seen some 4x4 with a angle that is 3 times more. I allso use mine on all gravel roads, only remove mine if i do tar roads alone. I also use 265/65/18 tyres, for that I needed the extra lift. Maybe it will be safe to get a opinion off a engineer to tell us what should be the save working angle for the shafts. I have been running mine for a long time now, also at high speeds, also done 2 more for my friends, all off them still happy.
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17th May 2011 10:20 pm |
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Disco3 Gert
Member Since: 16 Oct 2010
Location: Vaaltriangle
Posts: 36
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Hi Namlandy
Check this site for some "boer maak n plan" plans for the desiccant drier on your compressor...... http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?t=84067
Then on another note, I cant recall do you have a TDV6 or V8? and how does it fair in your parts of the world with respect to high sand dunes and what terrain response program do you use? I had some troubles climbing pretty high dunes a while back and it seems that sand mode did not do its job.....not leaving out the possibility of driver error......
Cheers
Gert current: Disco 3 TDV6 SE, fitted: 265/65/17 BFG, NL Dual Battery, Onboard compressor, frontrunner towbar.
old: Defender 110 2.8i
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23rd May 2011 11:46 am |
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Namlandy
Member Since: 14 Sep 2008
Location: Namibia
Posts: 57
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Hi Gert, I used silica gel cristals in the air drier, the ones we use on transformers, all I could get. Ja, I am here in Walvis with some high dunes, but I do not go there often, personly I do not like sand driving that much. I drive a TDV 6, the times I did go into the dunes it was going strong, just need to remember the traction controle, and to bring down the tyre press to around 1bar. I had it on the beach one day, to pull out a Jeep, had it in sand mode, no wheel spin, engine rev but nothing happened. Had it in lo range as well, thought I broke my car, unhook and it was ok again, hook from front and rock mode, lo range and pull Jeep out. The dune sand could be a nother thing, even the temp. and time off day can let u suffer. I prefer my Kunene and Caprivi trips.
Sorry for late reply, let me know if you come down here again.
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29th May 2011 10:48 pm |
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scolliss
Member Since: 05 Mar 2007
Location: Zurich, Switzerland
Posts: 260
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What is your esteemed opinions? |
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I have scoured the thread but no similar issues to mine.
Car parked for two weeks in access mode in underground garage. This is normal for past 5 years of cars life.
Going on holiday tomorrow (well, was), went to start car tonight, start ok, no error messages.
Flick switch to raise to normal hieght, switch light flashing, nothing happening and then red suspension warning light and "do not drive over 30mph" showing.
Did reset twice, including a little 300m drive but problem still there and exactly the same at each start up.
Do you guys think this is a compressor failure or know of something else to try?
Otherwise I will be limping to the garage in the morning instead of blasting off on my holiday. Life is what you make it.
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2nd Feb 2012 8:54 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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Just go for a bit of a drive. |
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Probably the starting battery is low and needs a charge; the low power circuits could inhibit the compressor running as it would the heated windscreen and heated seats - might try them and see if they work - probably not.
Also consider putting your 3 on a battery charger overnight as a short drive will not fully charge the battery but may be enough to get the compressor going. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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2nd Feb 2012 9:18 pm |
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scolliss
Member Since: 05 Mar 2007
Location: Zurich, Switzerland
Posts: 260
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Went for a drive in the hope...at least I tried. Limping to the garage in the morning now.
Battery before starting read 12.5v, it is only 3 month old anyway and the heated seats and all that worked fine. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Incidently (and off topic) the battery was replaced because I got all manner of warnings at startup for months and months. New battery and never a sniff at a warning message since until this one, which seems to be a genuine warning. Life is what you make it.
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2nd Feb 2012 10:30 pm |
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DaveyB2005
Member Since: 18 Dec 2011
Location: Dublin
Posts: 1
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Hi All, I'm new to the forum and wondering if any of you have had a similar problem to me and/or can offer solutions. I have a 2005 Disco 3 and yesterday while taking a bend on a rough road, at a speed suitable for the conditions, the yellow 'roll warning'/suspension light flashed briefly and did this a couple of more times on subsequent bends, unless I crawled around them. The handling was akin to driving on a flat tyre, but tyre pressure is ok. The only other time I have had a similar problem was when I actually did get a flat. Is this a sign that the air compressor is going, or could it just be a sensor/electrical problem. The suspension still lifts and drops without a problem when I tried it yesterday. The reason I think/hope it might just be an electrical problem is that recently the airbag warning light has occasionally stayed on when I start the engine and reading forums on this seems to suggest an electrical fault. Are repairs of either difficult and/or expensive? Sorry for the long-winded message, look forward to hearing your opinions.
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12th Feb 2012 11:55 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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Finding the fault can be expensive. |
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Repairs costs are reasonable if you know what to fix. It is finding the fault that is expensive. Hence the more troubleshooting you can do yourself, the cheaper the total cost is.
Two thoughts re finding the fault.
If you have the NAV display with the 4x4 info screen, switch to that and keep watching it as you drive. A defective wheel height sensor or the wiring going to it will show as either a "frozen" wheel or one one that hops about for no apparent reason. Given that you have a 2005, the problem is probably the wiring loom as it was on mine and that is of course harder to figure out.
It could also be the battery electrical as the air bag light is a hint. The best you can do is put your 3 on a battery trickle charger such as a CTEK. If you do that for a week or so every night, the battery should get charged back up and the problem may just disappear - that you would be so lucky as then you have to determine if it is an alternator problem or just a weak battery.
For additional material go into my gallery per the button below and look in the LR3 Miscellaneous album files as well as the Traxide Dual Battery album and the Air System albums. There is a fair bit of info re the alternator, regulator, and charging as well as air system files such as block diagrams and operational descriptions. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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12th Feb 2012 5:06 pm |
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santiD3
Member Since: 09 Jan 2011
Location: Navarra
Posts: 261
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Hi
A friend of my mine who have a disco 3, have had a problem with suspension: fail message in the screen a then "normal ride height only" error message 157
Does anybody have any idea???
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7th Apr 2012 11:48 pm |
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