Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Sofia
Posts: 9
Re: TDV6 timing belt - How To...
Disco_Mikey wrote:
No need to be scared by the high cost of timing belt replacement anymore! Or even just to see where your money goes when it gets done at a garage. With Disco 3's becoming older and higher mileage etc, more and more will need replacing soon. Some due to mileage, some due to age. It is quite an involved job however, and neither myself nor Disco3 accept any responsibility if you decide to tackle this job, and end up with a dead Disco...
The reccomended interval is 105k or 7yrs for both timing belts, and the aux drive belt is on the service schedule at 105k also...
If you need any more advice or help etc, drop me a PM
Rear belt first. Start by removing the engine cover, battery cover, battery, and the upper parts of the battery box
Click image to enlarge
Behind the battery, you will find a pair of ECU's. Remove all the connectors from the rear ECU, and the left hand (grey one) connector from the front ECU. Also, split the white connector that was attached to the battery box
Click image to enlarge
Bit tricky this, you need to remove the bottom and middle wiring looms from the body so you can get your hands down the back of the engine. To do this, queeze the small plastic clips (circled) inwards together and pull away from the body. It is a quite tricky but you can get away with doing one side at a time and keep gentle pressure on it to stop it from clipping back into place. Disconnect glow plug wiring and secure out of the way
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Move wiring across to other side of the engine bay. The coolant pipe that runs across the top of the engine needs to be moved also. Clamp the pipe on the n/s of the car, unbolt the pipe (2x 10mm bolts fitted from the rear of the engine) and secure it out of the way. You will spill a liitle coolant, but dont worry about it...
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
TBC...
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13th Nov 2018 2:43 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Not in English but some good views of engine components to give you an idea how it works
6th Mar 2019 8:20 pm
Canaussie
Member Since: 08 Mar 2012
Location: Queensland
Posts: 6
Well it’s about to get real, parts arrived today and gonna save me some coin. Will follow Mickey’s post and all the advice from members, cheers. Still not sure if I need to replace the seals, any advice?2012 2.7L D4 Orkney Grey
The D4 rear belt job is a bigger task than the D3, there is a lot more to come off and less room, you can follow DM's how to for so far doing the rear belt, but after that its a totally different beast with more pipes and brackets to come off.
The front is almost the same apart from less room and all the vac pipes.
Flack
14th Aug 2019 8:18 am
Canaussie
Member Since: 08 Mar 2012
Location: Queensland
Posts: 6
thanks Flack, still not sure about the seals, do they require replacement?2012 2.7L D4 Orkney Grey
Seals?, no seals to change if your doing the belts, as long as there are no leaks then leave well alone.. I have done a lot of D4 belts and never had to change any seal's.
Flack
14th Aug 2019 3:51 pm
Biffta
Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: Folkestone
Posts: 10
Hi, been looking at buying a 2008 (58) reg 2.7 Td V6 GS discovery 3 and I'm asking to find out if when having a cambelt change I need to change water pump or oil pump as when asking garage who are selling have service book with ten stamps upto 113,311 miles but know record or receipts of cambelt being done.
And also does the water pump run off cambelt or auxiliary belt?
Only asking as never had a Land Rover and if I decide to buy it would be the first thing I would do.
Regards
Biff ( Mark)
23rd Feb 2020 4:14 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
If it is not in the service books..... it’s seldom done...
The oil pump .... should be Checked ASAP... as it is a major breakdown reason if the old type (till end of ‘08 not strong enough) have a search on oil pump
also change the bolts from the tensioners.... they can break after re use
Edit: typo & url codeBest regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
Last edited by Motolab on 23rd Feb 2020 6:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total
23rd Feb 2020 5:04 pm
Biffta
Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: Folkestone
Posts: 10
Thanks for that mate, don't want to buy it and after warranty runs out car goes 💥
23rd Feb 2020 5:59 pm
Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 382
I'm going to do my timing in the next few days and I'm wondering if its worth doing the timing chains too? I can't seem to find any information on when these should be done.
I've currently got the body off and the front completely stripped (pic below) as I'm doing a lot of work to the vehicle, so access is no issue.
I personally change the oil every 5000 miles (currently 147,000) but cant say the same for the first (bought at) 107,000. Timing was last done at 85,000. My concern is more the little plastic sprung tensioners than the chains themselves. Also due to how my vehicle is used, it frequently idles for long periods of time, so at times when vehicle doesnt reach temp (usually when outside temp is 6-10c (too warm for FBH but too cold for full temp) there is a chance of reduced oil flow up there.
Cheers
24th Feb 2020 2:06 am
Fireburst
Member Since: 02 Nov 2017
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 195
If its a Discovery 4 you will require a HPFP timing tool, I bought mine from here:-
The rear belt is fiddly but if like me you are a DIY mechanic just take your time, one tip I used off here was to tie whatever tool you are using to your wrist, if you drop anything down the back of the engine it will probably never be seen again!
One other very useful tool is a good hose clip removal tool, I would have struggled without one.
Good luck
24th Feb 2020 7:57 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
chains have been known to brake on these, so change them and tensioners if you wish (as you are on 150K
It's not easy or cheap though
24th Feb 2020 7:40 pm
Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 382
I've got a bit longer to think about it. I've seen a few stories of them breaking whilst looking for interval information but most vehicles it's happened to seem to have a history of neglect, I'm not so sure mine has. I have invested in the proper locking kit so it does help with ROI on that little purchase.
24th Feb 2020 8:05 pm
mid-devon-disco-3
Member Since: 01 Apr 2018
Location: mid devon
Posts: 7
I do not like the idea of marking the crank shaft.. Why not just do it proper and remove the starter motor and insert the fly wheel pin ?
if that belt has stretched then all your doing is fitting a new belt back slightly out of timing.. For example
I turned my engine over and inserted both cam pins.. REMOVED starter and couldn't insert the pin. crank was out of timing due to stretched belt only half a tooth but more than enough.. Remove cam pins fit crank shaft pin and the adjust cams to suit.
That way you know the crank is perfectly timed and so are the cams. All you guys are doing is following a already stretched belt..
I bet half of the belts done with out pins wont time up exactly with pins...
Ive been in the trade 20 years and im still amazed at the use of tippex its just a home hack that needs to be banned lol
15th Mar 2020 8:37 am
Paddington
Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: Southampton
Posts: 280
morning all
I've now owned my discovery 3 for 7 years and have done many long trips in her with my family.
so this morning I started my cambelt change and to my horror I found this what I believe to be an old style oil pump.
please can anyone confirm this is the case.
I think in won't touch it just put it back together and get a new oil pump and do the belts and oil pump together what do you think ?
Previous cars
Discovery 200 tdi
Discovery 300 tdi
Discovery td5
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thanks Flack, still not sure about the seals, do they require replacement?
