Member Since: 30 Oct 2018
Location: Woodley
Posts: 143
yes that's the disaster waiting to happen, get rid of it asap.
16th Mar 2020 12:07 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
considering you have a 2006, I don't know why you are surprised its an old pump
Yes, that sounds best. Get a pump and do both together
16th Mar 2020 12:09 pm
Paddington
Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: Southampton
Posts: 280
Hi I’m surprised as i was told it had belts and oil pump changed before I got it and didn’t think they would put an old style pump on .
Thanks for confirming my fears so off to advance factors for a new pump
Previous cars
Discovery 200 tdi
Discovery 300 tdi
Discovery td5
16th Mar 2020 12:30 pm
Paddington
Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: Southampton
Posts: 280
so a quick trip to AF and the wallet a bit lighter picked up new oil pump crank bolt and 2 oil seals (spare just in case ) just need a few days off to fit
Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: Southampton
Posts: 280
well a busy day fitted new oil & water pumps & front cam belt and rollers. oil and filter change along with the coolant.
I was so pleased with myself when it fired up as this was the first time I've done one on these cars.
the only problem I had was the header tank coolant bleed screw was leaking after the coolant change so I've ordered a new one.
many thanks to disco_mikey for this how to, and everyones input as with out it I wouldn't of had a go.
so just the rear belt to do.
Member Since: 14 Jun 2018
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 53
Well with all this free time due to the Corona Virus situation. I thought that I'd tackle the front timing belt, new oil pump & water pump.
I was just laying the parts out, when I noticed the date stamp on my Gen LR 'dayco' timing belt says 15 09 1 ***
So this means that the belt is already 5 years old?!
With something so critical, I think that I'll buy another belt to be on the safe side.
Any thoughts on this?
I know that the actual belt change is 105k miles or 7 years (which ever comes first). But is this like a 'use by' date on the timing belt itself.
I work on Lorry's and some parts now come with a time restriction from opening the part - to fitting it now has to be completed in a certain time limit!
My second query is - the 2 idler wheels I have are Britparts. I've heard quite a bit of derogatory comments of the quality of their parts - should I use genuine or 'dayco' parts instead?
Surely Britpart parts have to be up to OEM standards?
Any advice would be gratefully recieved. Thanks
3rd Apr 2020 4:40 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
Use on critical places like timing belts and rollers, only OEM parts IMHO .. dayco that is...in this case...
OEM “standards” is in the real world not always what it promises.....or suggests ...
So IF a certain supplier IS the OEM supplier towards LR (like dayco, VDO, denso, etc.) you can buy it often for 2/3 or even half the price from some sources, compared to the same thing with a LR label on it, but other brands, made to OEM specs... beware! Everybody can say that... all the Chinese company’s are saying it...
I use them Not on my engines at least... it is not worth it if it breaks down...Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
3rd Apr 2020 4:59 pm
philyourpants
Member Since: 14 Jun 2018
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 53
Thanks Motolab.
What about the date stamp on the dayco timing belt?
Is this like a shelf-life, or just the date of manufacture?
I would have thought that the 7 year or 105k miles change interval would start from when I fit the new belt etc...EGR pipes blocked & refitted.
Butterfly valve removed.
Dash clock.
3 flash indicators.
Xenons with Cornering lights.
De-tangoed with Side marker lights.
Tinted windows.
'See me home' lights front & rear.
Cruise & Audio controls fitted.
Remote start FBH.
New belts & Oil pump upgrade.
Full length roof bars.
3rd Apr 2020 5:20 pm
matgriff
Member Since: 16 Sep 2019
Location: Newcastle Under Lyme, Staffs
Posts: 171
I would say that as long as the belt has been stored in a nice condition, not kinked or exposed to UV sunlight etc it will be fine.
I think the time limit on the belt change is based on it being fitted, tensioned and subject to all the heat/cool cycles & contamination associated with running the car, stopping/starting etc.
If it was 20 years out of date then obviously bin it, but I wouldn't worry too much..2005 TDV6 SE Auto
Cairns Blue
3rd Apr 2020 5:38 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
I have not a straight answer, but why not ask dayco themselfes?
There should be a certain shelf life before the “fitted” 7 years start counting...
Shelf life may be depending on the conditions it is stored in... temp, humidity, light (UV) , etc.
Personally feel comfortable with (if stored well) 2 years shelf life?
company’s like Dayco or conti are invited to prove me wrong 😉Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
3rd Apr 2020 5:46 pm
philyourpants
Member Since: 14 Jun 2018
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 53
matgriff wrote:
I would say that as long as the belt has been stored in a nice condition, not kinked or exposed to UV sunlight etc it will be fine.
I think the time limit on the belt change is based on it being fitted, tensioned and subject to all the heat/cool cycles & contamination associated with running the car, stopping/starting etc.
If it was 20 years out of date then obviously bin it, but I wouldn't worry too much..
Thanks matgriff - That makes a lot of sense.
I bought the belt & tensioner as a boxed genuine LR part off ebay.EGR pipes blocked & refitted.
Butterfly valve removed.
Dash clock.
3 flash indicators.
Xenons with Cornering lights.
De-tangoed with Side marker lights.
Tinted windows.
'See me home' lights front & rear.
Cruise & Audio controls fitted.
Remote start FBH.
New belts & Oil pump upgrade.
Full length roof bars.
3rd Apr 2020 6:57 pm
philyourpants
Member Since: 14 Jun 2018
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 53
Motolab wrote:
I have not a straight answer, but why not ask dayco themselfes?
There should be a certain shelf life before the “fitted” 7 years start counting...
Shelf life may be depending on the conditions it is stored in... temp, humidity, light (UV) , etc.
Personally feel comfortable with (if stored well) 2 years shelf life?
company’s like Dayco or conti are invited to prove me wrong 😉
I think I will contact drayco directly, if they are still working.
Thanks again MotolabEGR pipes blocked & refitted.
Butterfly valve removed.
Dash clock.
3 flash indicators.
Xenons with Cornering lights.
De-tangoed with Side marker lights.
Tinted windows.
'See me home' lights front & rear.
Cruise & Audio controls fitted.
Remote start FBH.
New belts & Oil pump upgrade.
Full length roof bars.
3rd Apr 2020 6:59 pm
philyourpants
Member Since: 14 Jun 2018
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 53
Click image to enlarge
Never heard anything from Dayco.
Bought all new, you can't be too careful. Better thank having a trashed engine.
These turned out to be a godsend!
Top Tip.
Not only do they make fan removal a doddle, but I discovered that you can also use them to hold the Crank to get the super tight Crank bolt undone.
Click image to enlarge
Also using the White plastic retainer in the Brand new Oil Pump helped me get the Crank Oil seal to the correct depth on the shaft.
Click image to enlarge
EGR pipes blocked & refitted.
Butterfly valve removed.
Dash clock.
3 flash indicators.
Xenons with Cornering lights.
De-tangoed with Side marker lights.
Tinted windows.
'See me home' lights front & rear.
Cruise & Audio controls fitted.
Remote start FBH.
New belts & Oil pump upgrade.
Full length roof bars.
11th Apr 2020 9:37 pm
philyourpants
Member Since: 14 Jun 2018
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 53
Well I finally finished, plucked up the courage to fire her up.
Seems to be running lovely.
No mis-fires or leaks (so far)!
And I enjoyed doing it tbh. And saved myself a few quid in the process.
I made 1 or 2 cock-ups. So I think it's worth sharing so you reading this aren't tempted to do the same! Don't take short cuts - it causes more work in the end! Remember - you could destroy your engine!
This is my account & neither me nor the site can be held responsible. It's not 'gospel' it's my own experience and is meant as a helpful guide.
1) Lock the Flywheel /Crank shaft! (As well as both Camshafts)
Especially if you are fitting a new Oil Pump as well.
The Starter Motor has to be moved out of the way to get to the appature for the Flywheel locking tool.
I didn't, and it came back to bite me!
The Starter Motor can be a cow to get off, as there is very little room to maneuver.
Move the Fuel Cooler out of the way - I took one fuel pipe off and did get it out the way. Makes it easy to move the Starter Motor clear to access the Timing hole.
2) As well as the Timing Pin lock kit, get a pair of these
Well worth the £30! Not only do they make getting the Viscous Fan off (Left hand thread).
One has a hole in it and will bolt on to the Crank pulley to make getting the extremely tight Crank pulley bolt off & back on (come to think) far easier. I really don't like the thought off 100nm (I think) then a further 90° on the cheap timing set!
3) Should have mentioned it earlier. The Fly-wheel locking tool (1 in the kit is for Automatics & 1 is for manual transmissions). Needs the circumference grinding down (it's well documents on here).
4) The Crank Shaft oil seals are quite delicate & can damage easily (you will only really be fitting a new one if your existing seal is leaking or you're replacing the oil pump). There is a special tool (£99!) Which I thought expensive just to use this once!
I found a socket slightly small (by a knats penis) and wound electrical tape making a very granule cone shape to slip the seal carefully on to the Crank (you can not use any kind of Lube, it has to go on dry)!
If you are fitting a new Oil pump at this time, the Plastic retainer as in photo helps with generally sliding down the Crank shaft. Then turn it round and again carefully use it to align the seal in the appature (it needs to be recessed by 1mm)!
Click image to enlarge
EGR pipes blocked & refitted.
Butterfly valve removed.
Dash clock.
3 flash indicators.
Xenons with Cornering lights.
De-tangoed with Side marker lights.
Tinted windows.
'See me home' lights front & rear.
Cruise & Audio controls fitted.
Remote start FBH.
New belts & Oil pump upgrade.
Full length roof bars.
14th Apr 2020 2:07 pm
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 48
Just changed front and rear belts and oil pump on my 2009 Disco 3.
This guide was a great help, thanks!
A few comments:
Definitely worth having the proper spanners for the fan removal, cheap on eBay.
1m breaker bar for crankshaft bolt was also a worthwhile investment. Note that the pulley does not need to be removed to change the belt if you do not change the oil pump.
Some of the bolts on the pulleys for the auxiliary drive belt are not hex heads - they are more like a torx key. A six-sided 10mm socket undid them, but I was a bit worried about damaging them. I would buy the correct tool for the next time.
Removing the diesel cooler takes just a few minutes and makes all the difference to getting the starter motor out.
Unbolting and withdrawing / rotating starter motor slightly improved the access to disconnect the electrical cables.
I managed to change the rear belt without removing all the electrical cables. Someone else mentioned this also. I think it was a bit easier on my car because it is LHD and the wiring layout is slightly different.
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