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darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2889
  
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As it was the 13th I have changed the Timing belt today, having changed the Aux belt a couple of weeks ago, and since reading about people who had experienced Water pump failure due to bolts shearing off I thought as it is coming apart, i will change the water pump. Purchased a new Pump from Rimmers up the road took off the whole "kit and kaboodle." All came apart, without drama
Put new water pump in (with existing bolts as had forgotten to buy new ones) left loose as was going to torque up at same time as belts etc
Getting dark so got floodlights out, looked for smaller torque wrench, not where it should be 
Then discovered my wifes' cousins ex boyfriend borrowed my 10 to 60nm Torque wrench, whilst I was abroad a few months ago, so Had Swimbo pick one up from Halfords 5 minutes before they closed, as she was out going to get shopping. Bit of panic sending picture of my trade card so i could get £20 off the price - all worked and she picked it up ok, so still good despite the thieving git that will never bring back my other one.
New cam belt on, with new idlers and got tensioner sorted (bl**dy stupid design) all torqued up and good, pins came out fine, although slightly tight turned over three times all good no major dramas (did panic with the compression though as was sure something was going to go wrong) pins still refitted ok so still all O.K.
Then moved on to torquing up the water pump to 10nm as per the manual first two OK third one sheared clean off 
Then spent 10 minutes to get the sheared bolt out fortunately as it was not tight at 10nm it was easy as i could rotate the broken part with the tip of a sharp centre punch hitting it off centre at an angle
So after this catastrophe ive packed up my tools put everything away and had some supper and a beer! Must stop buying shiny toys....
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 13th Jan 2018 10:13 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2344
  
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Wise to replace all 3 anyway, when doing that job.  D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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| 13th Jan 2018 11:29 pm |
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darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2889
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Had intended to buy some from Rimmers but got distracted by some cheap folding snow shovels  Must stop buying shiny toys....
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| 14th Jan 2018 1:43 am |
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Argybargy
Member Since: 23 Feb 2018
Location: Batumi
Posts: 2
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instead of timing pins why not just cut old timing belt along center line and take 50% (leaving entire existing belt all the way round but only half, see British car sos series) away then set new belt in place and push up to remaining old belt, once all cogs in line remove old push new all the way on and away we go
seems a SLET easier than pins etc and can't xxxx up
just a bush mechanic but bought my first new landy in 1976 @AUD $7,200 (same price then as xj jaguar) but got 400,000 kmh + and sold in 1998 at $5,000. at 19 years old thought shop prices prohibitive so bought workshop manual, followed instructions for every (new model x 2 & second hand x 2) after i have ever owned and never paid 1 cent for any service (no warranty) but well well ahead in 2018
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| 23rd Feb 2018 8:56 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
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With the locking pins being so cheap on ebay, silly not to use them.
Plus it would take longer, hunched over the slam panel, cutting all round that belt. Would take ages of messing around. Would not be fun
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| 24th Feb 2018 9:54 am |
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darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2889
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Not sure you could do it and take up the slack to set the tensioner correctly without a big issue later on IMO Must stop buying shiny toys....
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| 26th Feb 2018 11:31 am |
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mek
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 469
 
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I was about to ask this same question, having seen that episode recently. Has anyone done this? I can see this getting difficult with tensioner replacement but I wonder if procedurally i.e. order of work-wise there is a way to make this alternative technique work. The whole taking the starter out step puts me off this job.
While I am making this post... has anyone used the PowerfulUK bracket? Is it mickey mouse or does it work and mitigate the need to remove starter?
Thanks
Argybargy wrote:instead of timing pins why not just cut old timing belt along center line and take 50% (leaving entire existing belt all the way round but only half, see British car sos series) away then set new belt in place and push up to remaining old belt, once all cogs in line remove old push new all the way on and away we go
seems a SLET easier than pins etc and can't xxxx up
just a bush mechanic but bought my first new landy in 1976 @AUD $7,200 (same price then as xj jaguar) but got 400,000 kmh + and sold in 1998 at $5,000. at 19 years old thought shop prices prohibitive so bought workshop manual, followed instructions for every (new model x 2 & second hand x 2) after i have ever owned and never paid 1 cent for any service (no warranty) but well well ahead in 2018
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| 30th Apr 2018 3:06 pm |
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jorgenht
Member Since: 10 Jan 2018
Location: Bamble
Posts: 5
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Any chance this have been made in to a PDF? All the pictures are gone.
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| 12th Jul 2018 6:32 pm |
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gavin_f
Member Since: 13 Aug 2018
Location: Banbury
Posts: 4
 
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| Do I need to do the oil pump |
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I have just bought an early Disco 3. Think its 2004. Bit of an emergency purchase as my previous car died only 36 hours before we were due to tow a caravan to France....I now find the belt wasnt changed and milage is high at 148k.
I read that the oil pump can fail on the 2007-2008 models
I actually didn't see the year part and did purchase a pump to fit but see that this is quite painful as the crank pulley bolt is a swine
So my question is - with the early ones is there any point to change - did the casting issues affect that one
Also - if I do change the pump can the pins supplied to lock the crank for timing take the toque for the crank bolt. I see a reference to a toothed tool but its pretty pricey...
Many Thanks
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| 13th Aug 2018 3:25 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6308
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Yes change the oil pump and water pump while your there. The camshaft pins are meant for the cams not the crank, you need the locking tool that fits in the fly wheel after removing the starter motor. You can get them cheap on Ebay..
Flack
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| 13th Aug 2018 3:51 pm |
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gavin_f
Member Since: 13 Aug 2018
Location: Banbury
Posts: 4
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Thanks Flack
By pins I mean the kit of parts on Ebay - 2 camshaft pins and 2 "pins" that go in a hole when the starter is removed type depending on box. Are those locking pins man enough to handle the torqure of undoing the pulley bolt
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013LPBNEW/ref...TE_3p_dp_1
As opposed to something like this
https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/7059
This is for a disco 4. Cant find one for the 3 as yet. If this is needed and you know of a source can you suggest please.
I think the water pump was done a few months prior - I have that bit of service at least
BTW I think you put a document out some time ago but the link didnt work for me. Mind you I tried that before joining the forum
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| 13th Aug 2018 4:14 pm |
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gavin_f
Member Since: 13 Aug 2018
Location: Banbury
Posts: 4
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Thanks Flack - Yes the oil pump one.
Cheers
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| 13th Aug 2018 4:42 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
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one crank lock for manual cars, a different tool for automatic cars.
That is why there are 2.
This often needs filing down (if silver) to fit the hole!
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| 13th Aug 2018 4:57 pm |
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Wills105
Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Folkestone.
Posts: 36
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Thanks to this thread I have managed to change both belts, tensioners, idlers etc.
I have owned my Disco from new, I took it to the dealers for it's first service, I knew they had changed to oil because there were oily hand prints on the paintwork and passenger side leather seat, it has not been back since.
I have looked after the car myself using a Land Rover Service Sheet. This sheet shows the timing belt renewal at 105,000 miles, mentions nothing about 7 years.
On the positive, the car is now 9 years and 3 months old with 53,000 miles on the clock.....so I got away with that one.
I have little to add to the excellent posts already here. There was a factory TDC mark in black marker on the crank pulley, although I had the kit, I didn't lock the crank, just pinned the cams.
I marked all the pulleys with paint and referenced them on the block, as an extra I marked the old belt and the pulleys in a different colour then transferred the marks to the new belt using sticky tape,(didn't want to put paint on the new belt).
Wouldn't say it was an easy job for an overweight, short old bloke but I enjoyed it and saved a wad of cash too.
Thanks very much to all posters. 57 Golf Gti 2.0 Turbo.
95 Honda ST1100 Pan European.
1972 Honda CB750 K2.
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| 14th Oct 2018 7:05 pm |
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