Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
I see you have a 07 Disco. If your oil pump is the original fitted to the engine and does not have the upgraded version then there is a good chance you will be looking for a new engine in about 20,000 to 50,000km.
False economy not to have done the oil pump on a 07 engine.
My engine is an 07 and for the $1000 in labour cost for all belts and oil pump to be done - was money well spent. If you buy your oil pump from Ford, not LR, the $170 is well spent.
Garry
17th Aug 2017 12:55 am
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
I know the stories and the indy's I talked to, have never seen an oil pump failure and don't recommend ungrading oil pumps on the MY07 models.
17th Aug 2017 12:59 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14129
garrycol wrote:
I see you have a 07 Disco. If your oil pump is the original fitted to the engine and does not have the upgraded version then there is a good chance you will be looking for a new engine in about 20,000 to 50,000km.
False economy not to have done the oil pump on a 07 engine.
My engine is an 07 and for the $1000 in labour cost for all belts and oil pump to be done - was money well spent. If you buy your oil pump from Ford, not LR, the $170 is well spent.
Garry
couldn't agree more and like ur good self when i had my belts done i also had the oil cover , rear belt and water pump done at the same time, even though mines a 2005 was for peace of mind
didn't release at first when oil covers do fail the engine is normally toast ,
17th Aug 2017 1:10 am
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
Tripe wrote:
I know the stories and the indy's I talked to, have never seen an oil pump failure and don't recommend ungrading oil pumps on the MY07 models.
Well my Indie has not had any of his fail but has had to "fix" others work that has failed>
Did you try Justin Cooper a well respected LR Indy in Kingston - I am sure he would have recommended the oil pump change.
Any way it is your risk and your money. I hope nothing happens and for sure there is chance it will be OK but experience says the opposite.
17th Aug 2017 2:01 am
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
the online survey suggest 31 failures of the oil pump mount in the MY07+08 year, I believe over 1,000,000 discoveries were produced, making a rough guestimate, maybe 150,000? td v6 engines have the suspect oil pump in the 07/08 year
this suggest 149,969 have not failed.
I am comfortable in the odds that my existing oil pump mount won't fail.
17th Aug 2017 3:10 am
machsantos
Member Since: 18 Dec 2017
Location: Portugal
Posts: 5
Great job and... a doubt!!
Hi man, great tutorial you have made. Congratulations!
Can you help me with something?
I am rebuilding a similar engine. Only difference is that it's mounted on a Citroen C6 from 2006.
It pretty much the same thing.
I was setting timing belt and two doubts came to my mind!!
1 - Crankshaft sprocket has 2 grooves on the inside but the crankshaft seems to be perfectly clear, I mean, there's not any guide where those grooves enter. Does it works like this?
2 - The belt tensioner holds on the oil pump but there is not anything that holds the back part of the tensioner as you move it anticlockwise to set the correct tension. You hope it to align with the pin and it never happens. The all thing rotates together!!! Is there any holder to the tensioner?? How have you made it work correctly?
Thanks man, I appreciate your help.
18th Dec 2017 3:58 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
1. Yes. It works by being on tight
2. On the tensioner is a square cut out. And on the back is a raised square bit. I recommend you paint the raised square.
You put it on, use an allen key in the tensioner to allign your coloured square with the square cut out and then tighten it to the specified torque.
Turn the engine over by hand, and ensure the paint colour is still aligned with the window (approx)
18th Dec 2017 5:58 pm
machsantos
Member Since: 18 Dec 2017
Location: Portugal
Posts: 5
Thanks a lot for your reply.
In relation at question "2", yes, I understand there is a cut out on front part (black) and a raise behind (aluminium color), but what I want to know is if there is a raise somehow in the contact of the tensioner with the oil pump body that holds the tensioner. I can't find any and when I use the alan key, the all tensioner rotates and not only the front part... so, it never aligns with the raised bit you mentioned (as it should)!!
Resuming: shoudn't it be a bit on the oil pump to hold the tensioner, as it happens with most cars? For example, when you insert the tensioner of the fuel pump side it has an insertion to hold it.
18th Dec 2017 6:58 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
No nothing to hold it by pump.
18th Dec 2017 7:56 pm
machsantos
Member Since: 18 Dec 2017
Location: Portugal
Posts: 5
So you say, nothing to hold it like it happens with the other side tensioner?
It just rotates freely till it be tight?
It sounds like you have the tensioner bolt to tight to start with, what I always do is to make sure the bolt is loose enough to turn the front part to align with the rear part, but I also move the alignment right past the window ( ie : to tight ), I then release it so it moves back to the window until its aligned, I then torque the bolt to 25nm and 99 times out of a 100 after rotating the crank by hand it does not move from the set position.
Flack
18th Dec 2017 10:11 pm
machsantos
Member Since: 18 Dec 2017
Location: Portugal
Posts: 5
Thanks man. I'll try it that way.
But you confirm that there is not any locker or pin between the oil pump body and the tensioner that holds it in a specific position, right?
18th Dec 2017 10:24 pm
machsantos
Member Since: 18 Dec 2017
Location: Portugal
Posts: 5
Hello,
So I've put a new tensioner and a new belt. First thing I've noticed was that the old belt (with only 20k) stretched!!!! Really!! That's why the tensioner was rottating. Also, the torque has to be precise. If you tight it too much, forget it, it will also rotate. What a mess man!! It's also (in my opinion) a kind of a failsafe a tensioner that doesn't has a locker on the behind!! For an engine mounted on serious big cars... really!!!!
21st Dec 2017 10:01 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Yeah its not great.
You should not be over tighening it!
Best to fit a new oil pump if you have been over tighening it
22nd Dec 2017 11:12 am
James1974
Member Since: 23 Nov 2017
Location: Stevenage
Posts: 990
I’m just wondering I done my belts without removing the starter car runs fine but is verry tappy when under load especially when cold
And to be fair I done it straight away when I brought it so don’t really know if it done it before hand
Would it do this if the timming was a fraction out I marked the bottom pulley with paint which didn’t move at all
Or if it was out would it always do it even when warmed
Up
Bit does run and rev really nice apart from that
Have done oil flush change and new filter today so see how it goes in the next few days
Any thoughts would be great
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