Member Since: 01 Nov 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 24
Thank you
Just a quick thank you to ridgeback_moor and others for the guidance on this thread.
Just changed the oil in front and rear diffs on my MY05 D3 for the first time in just over 160k miles. Not much magnetic swarf on either of the drain plugs but the old rear diff oil was much darker in colour than the stuff that came out of the front one.
I considered doing the job without removing wheels but reckon it became a lot easier when they were not there (front n/s and rear o/s)
I used a syringe to extract the approximate amount of new oil from each litre bottle (Castrol Syntrax Uni Plus 75W-90) using the scale on the side of the bottle and compensated for some being left in the syringe and the bit that ran down my forearm while faffing about. The size of syringe/tube was large enough for the viscosity of the oil not to be a suction/delivery problem while lying flat under the car at the rear and the pipe fits nicely through the fill plug hole.
Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
Thanks for this! After f'ing about with one of the sump guard bolts for a while which was rounded and wouldn't even come out with a hex socket, I had to pick up an Irwin bolt remover set and it came straight off. Changed engine oil and filter then tackled the fuel filter following your guide. Partially filled the new filter with Redex then bled the rest of the air out. Was going to tackle the front and rear diff oil too before it got dark but realised MY06 has the square drain plug. Pre-ordered to pick up a 3/8 square bit from Halfords tomorrow morning so will hopefully have this done in time for lunch.
15th Sep 2018 11:17 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Second Time Around
When I bought my Disco3 new in 2005 1 would never have imagined that I would be changing the Diff and Transfer Box box fluids for the second time, 14 years later. Good maintenance on the front Diff has left the magnetic drain plug almost free of swarf . Fluid was not discoloured either.
Click image to enlarge
Replacing one drive shaft seal on rear diff before changing that oil.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
7th Mar 2019 10:21 am
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Replaced the rear diff oil and found very little discolourisation and no metal attached to the magnet in the drain plug. Happy with that.
Changed the transfer box oil and again little discolourisation.
I have during these fluid changes realised the easiest way to fill using my Sealey hand pump is to NOT suck up the right amount but to undo the main chamber and pour the right amount of fluid in then refit the plunger. The last few millilitres that are hard to pump into diff, I then pump out into a shallow dish and use a small syringe to inject into the diff etc. Solves the problem of pumping the lest bit ‘up hill” from the large hand pump.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
I'm planning on a dif oil change in the coming weeks on Moneypit. The diff drain is the 3/8" square type.
I'm struggling to find on online to use with my 1/2" socket set. I can see them in complete sets of in a smaller drive.
Can anyone point me in the direction of where to acquire a 1/2" drive, 3/8" square male socket?
Is it as simple as using a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor?
Cheers n Gone Nick MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
23rd Jun 2019 1:06 pm
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 805
eBay item number:
eBay Item No. 321832967019 simple as these yesplease excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
23rd Jun 2019 1:14 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
but get reasonable quality as the plugs can be tight.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
23rd Jun 2019 2:29 pm
mid
Member Since: 13 Apr 2017
Location: midlands
Posts: 151
Thanks for the brilliant write up, well done sir!
23rd Jun 2019 5:50 pm
WS7
Member Since: 06 May 2019
Location: Nuneaton
Posts: 56
Thank you for this 'how to'. You've made my morning a whole lot easier
3rd Aug 2019 11:23 am
shravanjk86
Member Since: 20 Jun 2019
Location: Düsseldorf
Posts: 52
Just finished doing the fuel filter replacement.
The clips are easy enough to compress , but had to wrestle them off the old filter.
They’d rusted themselves stuck, felt as though I’d break something in levering them off.
And yes as mentioned by others before, WD-40 is your best friend in removing that 8mm bolt holding the filter in place. And I did have to bleed the fuel line in the front as I hadn’t pre filled with fuel.
It kept stalling until I had someone turn the engine over whilst I bled it in engine bay.
27th Feb 2021 9:14 pm
miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
Fuel filter change
I wonder if anyone has any ideas on how to remove fuel pipes from filter, mine seem completely stuck on, I managed to get one off but the others refuse point blank to come off even compressing the release tabs doesn’t seem to allow them to come off they will turn on the filter but will not push up off the filter.
I’ve realised that this job would be much easier if you had the car on a ramp, in 4x4 mode it’s not high enough & just jacking it up on drivers side still did not give me enough height.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Tom
4th Jun 2021 9:43 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
You may have to push the tabs in and gently leaver with a flat blade screwdriver the rubber O rings may be sticking to the filter tubes.
Be careful to put the pipes back correctly its easy to get the two small ones swapped which will damage pipework on the engine.
Also when fitted turn the ignition on for 30 seconds off for 10 then back on for 30 seconds without starting the engine. This will fill the filter full of fuel and bleed out the air. They are a real pain to start oif you dont do this.Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
5th Jun 2021 7:23 am
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 805
Re: Fuel filter change
miniman8 wrote:
I wonder if anyone has any ideas on how to remove fuel pipes from filter, mine seem completely stuck on, I managed to get one off but the others refuse point blank to come off even compressing the release tabs doesn’t seem to allow them to come off they will turn on the filter but will not push up off the filter.
I’ve realised that this job would be much easier if you had the car on a ramp, in 4x4 mode it’s not high enough & just jacking it up on drivers side still did not give me enough height.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Tom
the very first time i did my d3 i ended up removing the filter with several pipes still connected and putting it in a vise to release the stuck pipes was a nightmare and almost broke the fitting releasing them
turned out the filter had been on so long the metal pipes on the filter had corroded and jammed the fitting on so now when i change the filter i always use a genuine unit and put a little bit of grease on the pipe before refitting been ok for 5 years now but still a pain to do due to the location why l/r couldn't put it under the bonnet i don't knowplease excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
5th Jun 2021 9:09 am
miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
Fuel filter change
Thanks guys for the replies, I guessed you would need to lever them off but just wanted to be sure others did the same thing, didn’t want to start levering off only to snap connectors.
My drive is on a bit of a slope so I have to be careful when jacking it up, I always use axle stands, like you say don’t want 2.7 tonnes coming down on you.
I have seen a video on you tube where they removed the mounting bracket which left the filter suspended on pipes & you could move filter a bit to get a bit more access, I’m not sure this is a good idea though.
I shall have a go at this when I get a couple of free days off work.
Thanks for advice.
Tom
5th Jun 2021 1:41 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
I would also put the suspension up to full height to give yourself more roomAndrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
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