Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 14478
Very nice. If you fancy having a go at my old bus let me know. D4 HSE EU6 (Known as Jeeves)
New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!) Sold
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
22nd Nov 2015 6:52 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I've got quite a bit of small engine work to do (the joys of winter) but I could do the odd FBH if they are sent to me.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 20 Dec 2008
Location: Saddleworth Oldham
Posts: 1954
Robbie any idea where you can get internal parts from I have one that needs a new burner cyl as the little cup inside that holds the fuel has come detached !!
Cheers
SharkyMY18 D5 HSE LUX😎
MY12 Freelander SD4 HSE
44 Tonne 12 Litre 6x2 Scania T cab (Current)
Freelander 1 (Wrote off 😫)
Ex D1
Ex D2 GS
Ex V8 D2 GS
Ex D3 S
Ex D4 GS
Club skip ya lockers !!!
Club BAS remote heater !!
Club Duratrac
Club Phillips DRL
Club Prospeed Rack Mk 1
Club Prospeed Rack Mk 2
Club Sankey
Club RLD spare wheel protector
22nd Nov 2015 7:57 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I've seen the burners for sale on German sites but they were over £100. I don't think the cup itself is repairable, forcing the replacement of the burner can.
We do have a chap on the forum who is a Webasto technician. He may not be keen on identifying himself but he will know a lot more than me. He has been in Robbie's garage before now....Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 20 Dec 2008
Location: Saddleworth Oldham
Posts: 1954
Yes I tried to repair it with a small screw but it was not very successful may have to try the webasto dealer in Manchester MY18 D5 HSE LUX😎
MY12 Freelander SD4 HSE
44 Tonne 12 Litre 6x2 Scania T cab (Current)
Freelander 1 (Wrote off 😫)
Ex D1
Ex D2 GS
Ex V8 D2 GS
Ex D3 S
Ex D4 GS
Club skip ya lockers !!!
Club BAS remote heater !!
Club Duratrac
Club Phillips DRL
Club Prospeed Rack Mk 1
Club Prospeed Rack Mk 2
Club Sankey
Club RLD spare wheel protector
23rd Nov 2015 8:05 am
ItSmee
Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 34
Thank you Robbie for such a full and concise write up.
On removing the FBH complete with exhaust, is there a clamp as the exhaust pipe goes into the inner wing to the lower exhaust? If so, how do you get to it?
Where are the coolant bleed ports on a D4?
28th Nov 2015 3:52 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
The inside of the wheel arch is protected by a removable plastic liner and this gives ready access to the lower part of the FBH and exhaust.
There is a bleed port on the coolant bottle and one on the end of a coolant pipe towards the top of the engine. The exact location varies by model year, but not hard to find.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 34
Cheers Robbie
28th Nov 2015 5:54 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Off to cold parts in January, so decided to get a remote FBH controller (next day delivery from BAS ) and will be following Robbie's guide when the seal and O-rings arrive (little more than a pint of beer from Dan at Duckworths )2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
2nd Dec 2015 5:02 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Don't let JLR hear that or the kit will be priced akin to a brewery by the end of the week.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Took the FBH apart yesterday and followed Robbie's instructions Surprised to see no build up of soot and carbon. Gave it a clean anyway and rebuilt. Fired up fine on the Nanocom test. Perhaps my regular clean with brake cleaner helped or perhaps it was the premium diesel.
Now to fit the BAS remote ready for ski trip.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
13th Dec 2015 10:54 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Any pictures?
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Here was the inside before cleaning. Looks worse in photo than it was.
Click image to enlarge
Fitted remote FBH to work off third button on key fob. Worked first time. Kept going for 30 mins and no smoke in sight
Robbie, you will be pleased to hear that no scotchblock connectors were used, only soldered joins and heat shrink 2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
13th Dec 2015 2:51 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Nice clean burning there!
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
In answer to a question about FBH glowplug testing with a multimeter - it can be done but there are some slight complications. As well as the usual short-circuit and continuity tests Webasto do give values for a resistance check:
Quote:
Cold resistance between Contact 1 and 2 at 24 ± 6 °C: 0.200 to 0.300 ohms.
Note the very low resistance value quoted as anything under an ohm is going to be quite a challenge for the average multimeter.
A simple resistance check of the FBH glowplug with my Fluke 87V in regular mode shows the problem:
Click image to enlarge
With a displayed value between 0.3 and 0.4 ohms it is not accurate enough at low values to be of use. Indeed, the displayed value appears to be outside of the published specification. Whilst I have some issues with Webasto's statement that a standard 2-wire multimeter cannot be used, they do recommend a 4-wire (aka Kelvin bridge) resistance measurement:
Quote:
The cold resistance must be checked using a multimeter with the 4-conductor measuring principle. Multimeters without the 4-conductor measuring principle may not be used for this purpose.
Repeating the same test with my bench multimeter in 4-wire mode shows the glowplug resistance at 0.257 ohms is in the middle of the stated range:
Click image to enlarge
Despite what Webasto say, for those that can grab a suitable resistor (220 ohms or so) and a reasonably stable DC power supply (around 5v would be great) can still use Ohms Law to calculate a low resistance from the voltage drop on a regular and cheap 2-wire multimeter. The money saved can be used on beer.
Anyway, I hope this helps someone.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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