Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
TyphoonDisco wrote:
Gary,
Can you please do me a favour, it looks like you also have a Disco 3. Can you tell me if you get a clicking from Relay 4 every 15 seconds or so when the ignition is on. It's the relay for heated mirrors and headlight wash. Mine clicks over and over every 15 seconds.
I'm just wondering if this is part of the issue.
Thanks,
Jamie
Hi Jamie
No worries , it doesn’t click over like that , that’s interesting it doing that , wonder if its just the relay or maybe water ingress, bad wire , would get a torch, remove the relay, shine ur torch into the relay fuse box contacts to ensure there clean, give it a spray in there with some of that electrical contact spray , then buy a new relay
Have u tried pulling the relay to see if any of the errors still come up plse
funny enough i retrofitted some heated washer jets on mine as I have the base model so had to trace and install an extra wire in the back of the fuse box
Here the wiring diagram of the heated mirrors and jets for u just in case it’s useful to u , plus as some interest pics of when I had to trace the heated jets wiring terminals and where they needed to go
Yeh i know, need to get out more, lol, was just fed up with my heated jets icing up every year , pleased I no longer have that issue , fitted the D4 ones as there suppose to be better
Last edited by gstuart on 21st Feb 2021 12:00 am. Edited 1 time in total
20th Feb 2021 10:59 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
TyphoonDisco wrote:
Hi Gary
Sorry, I've just seen your other posts from 2104. I didn't take any photos inside the TCM before cleaning it. The actual connectors and the pins are squeaky clean, it just looks like some oxidisation/greening of some of the small teeth that come out of some of the chips inside. Not sure of what the effect of that will be so I will just change the TCM when the new one arrives.
Thanks for the info on the grease and cleaner. I will invest in both!
I'm also going to get at the earth connections tomorrow with some emery paper and a wire brush.
Cheers again!
Jamie
Hiya
Another good thing with the contact spray apart from cleaning it , also , disperses any moisture , dirt etc and giving a good electrical connection
As like many wires within a loom some need a certain signal to be sent to other modules so if for example a wire is dirty it won’t send back the correct signal that one of the modules is looking for and throws and errors
Then u get a resettable dashboard warning light in yellow , then when it becomes a hard fault it shows it in red
Pleasure mate ref the materials , awesome u getting those cleaned , can then use ur multimeter after so then at least we know 100% there all good
Hope this is helping mate as I know I do waffle a lot
Last edited by gstuart on 20th Feb 2021 11:11 pm. Edited 1 time in total
20th Feb 2021 11:09 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 18 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Jeez! Hats off for tackling that wiring loom! I wouldn't have a clue about that.
I wonder if there's been water through the fusebox at some point and that's done some damage. I have reason to believe the garage I bought the car from had jet washed the engine bay when preparing the car.
I have tried swapping in the nearby relays but they all do the same so I don't think the relay is knackered. The mirrors do get warm so the system seems to be working. Just strange why relay 4 clicks over and over every 15 seconds.
I have tried getting under the fusebox (in the engine bay) to check for damage but it's difficult to see any signs of water. It's hard to move because of the loom of wires coming into it. There doesn't seem to be any issues in the relay points or fuse points.
I bloody love and hate electrics. All of this hassle because of a stray volt or 2! I do like the challenge though.
20th Feb 2021 11:11 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Many thanks, must admit sounds really sad but enjoy doing things like this , here’s the link as well when I done it
Funny enough there’s a knack getting the fuse box moved to one side in order u can remove the bottom still got all the pics of the sequence if u want them
There’s no drain holes on the bottom of the fuse box so wonder if he used an additive, ie that’s caused a bad terminal connection , won’t hurt to pull the fuse for the relay and see if it makes any difference , as will certainly stop the clicking with the fuse out the way
Also so important that the cover and rubber seals are fitted correctly on the ECM as indeed a jetwash would also cause ingress of water
Enclosed a few pics and really hope that none of what I’ve said comes across in trying to teach u how to suck eggs
Never know may be the root cause of the errors, as if by removing the relay heated mirror, heated jet fuse we can at then delve deeper to which bit is bad
Sorry bad pic, the terminal pushes in under the fuse box and the relay flat blade slides in between them , also just thought , see if the terminals have spread plse and not tight for when the relay slides into the terminal as wondering if there not tight could cause a bad contact with it clicking on and off
Also behind the engines fuse box is a large bulkhead grommet that carries the loom to the internal fuse box behind the glove box , so if a jetwash was aimed in that direction wouldn’t take much
Also , Have u lifted ur passenger side footwell carpet up please and checked the wiring loom that sits in the channel that runs by the door sill as that can fill up with water
Ref earths, after there all cleaned might stop the relay clicking , theres another earth post as u look at the engine , right hand side by the fuse box , will find a pic for u
Plus 1, also like a challenge, hardest one was replacing some of my curtain airbags and then tracing wires, took weeks on end to find that but blimey it was awesome when I finally did
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Pic of the other ground point by the FBH
21st Feb 2021 12:46 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Remembered yet another earth post , down on the drivers side behind the small speaker , has volvo on the speaker, I removed the speaker as then if the alarm goes off it uses the main horns and not this little one, u just unplug it and tape up the connector
Circled the rough area of the earth post and that speakers location
Hope my ramblings sort of make sense
21st Feb 2021 12:52 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Can u do me a favour please , have u got a jump lead , if so can u remove ur engine cover first then refit just the engine oil filler cap so nothing can accidentally drop in there
use your multimeter set onto continuity , one end of the multimeters test lead to the battery earth post, then the other end of the multimeters test probe to the engine lifting bracket , Plse ensure u have continuity , u might have to clean the bracket up a little bit to get a good continuity from ur multimeter
Then get ur jump lead , put one end on the battery earth post and the other on that bracket plse
Put ur ign on and see if the relay still keeps clicking on and off please
Many thks
21st Feb 2021 7:48 am
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 18 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Hi Gary,
Apologies for the delay, been a busy day and when I finally got around to starting on the car I realised I'd melted my jump leads last year so had to go and buy some new ones.
I've cleaned up the earth points near the fuel burning heater. I still need to do the ones near the fusebox and alarm.
I've checked the continuity between the battery earth (negative terminal) and the engine lifting bracket. Continuity is good. When I add a jump lead here as an earth, relay 4 still clicks.
What was strange today was that the U2005-31 code did not show up on my fault sweep. Also, the relay 4 didn't click initially for about 2-3 minutes after turning ignition on, but then it started clicking again every 15-16 seconds.
I have now removed fuse 12 (heated washer), fuse 15 (heated mirrors) and relay 4. I will run the car tomorrow to see if the faults reoccur.
I will also finish cleaning the earth points tomorrow.
Cheers!
Jamie
21st Feb 2021 6:16 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Hi Jamie
No worries , indeed Plse let us know what happens with those fuses removed, then after all the earths being cleaned
Ref that clicking , can also put a multimeter across fuses , ie 12 etc to see if the voltage disappears or drops then comes back , but won’t worry about that at the moment, main goal fingers crossed is so that the disco runs error free without fault lights with those fuses and relay removed , as then go from there , will be half the battle if we know which circuit is causing the issue
Hopefully where making progress, lol
Looks like the weather is getting better which helps in not having to work in the rain etc
indeed Plse let us know how ur getting on , where get there in the end
22nd Feb 2021 2:39 am
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 18 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Hi Gary,
Unfortunately the fault came back on today even with the fuses and relay pulled.
I have power (12.5-12.6v) to Fuse 12, Fuse 16 and Relay 4. The power to each is steady. When I reconnected all 3, the relay still clicks every 15 seconds.
As an aside, I have disconnected the fuel burning heater fuse and when I test that fuse point I get a voltage which steadily decreases about 0.01v per second. It ticks down slowly 12.34, 12.33, 12.32 and so on. Seems a bit random.
I definitely think something is amiss in the electrics but it's proving very difficult to track it down.
Oh, I've cleaned all of the earth points in the engine bay now.
22nd Feb 2021 6:55 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 18 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Gary,
Here is the latest list of fault codes. It's the usual stuff but note that on power up, about 75% of the time I get the U3003 code. It's an over-voltage fault related to the cell phone. Definitely seems like something weird going on within the electrics.
Ignore the U0166 code, that's just the FBH disconnected.
Also note the mileages all differ depending on the source. The actual instrument cluster shows 100837.
Do you think there's a calibration I should do, or an ECU reflash, which might sort this out? I think it's arisen because of the speedo failures when all of my systems trip off. When the car is moving it drops to zero and the odometer stops count up.
Thanks,
Jamie
VIN: SALLAAA139A511904
L319 - Discovery 3 2009
Vehicle scanned on 22-02-2021 14:40
Using IIDTool BT V4.0 B2691
Airbag
U0122-87 (2C) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 22-02-2021 14:30:00 at 100817 mi )
Cell Phone
U3003-17 (AC) Battery voltage - General electrical failure - circuit voltage above threshold
( on 21-02-2021 17:52:21 at 100814 mi )
Instrument Pack
U0166-87 (2F) Lost communication with auxiliary heater control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 21-02-2021 17:39:07 at 100815 mi )
Parking Brake
U0122-87 (A8) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 22-02-2021 14:29:57 at 100817 mi )
Steering Angle
U0122-87 (2C) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 22-02-2021 14:30:01 at 100817 mi )
Suspension
U0122-87 (2E) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 22-02-2021 14:29:58 at 100817 mi )
Terrain Response
U0122-87 (28) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 22-02-2021 14:29:58 at 100817 mi )
Transfer Case
U0122-87 (28) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 22-02-2021 14:29:57 at 100817 mi )
22nd Feb 2021 7:03 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Hi
Sorry for the delay , thks for the results
Would be very tempted to unplug the cell phone fuse
Also curious why the mileage goes to zero on ur instrument panel, know it’s key to the canbus seeing so many other things communicate with it, would hate for u to send it away and find it’s not the issue
Have u checked the plugs etc on the back of the instrument c,utter please , have seen where some have had issues, along with faulty instruments panels , know if u fit another one is needs programming so not like a simple plug and play
Personally wouldn’t do an update on the ecu etc as very fearful it could turn ur disco into a brick in being totally dead
Plse , Start with that cell phone fuse removal and I’ll see if I can find any more info , know it can be very frustrating with a fault like this
Plse See how u get on , also wonder with the instrument panel pulled forward to then wiggle the connectors whilst the ign is on if it throws an error
Sorry that’s not much help but fingers crossed can at least try and pin the circuit down that’s causing all the issues
23rd Feb 2021 4:51 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Also just wondered , have u checked that large back connector by ur passenger side rear wheel plse, also ensuring as you’ve disconnected other connectors / modules to spray it with electrical cleaner just in case there’s a wire that’s causing the issue , thks
Plus would u be so kind to try something for me please, before removing the cell phone fuse , set ur multimeter to AC volts , start the engine , put one test lead on ur earth battery post and the other test lead onto the positive battery terminal , also see if someone can sit in the disco for u and raise the revs to around 2,500 revs , can u tell me what the meter says plse , many thks
23rd Feb 2021 4:53 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Found this link
Pinched from robbie, ref ur iid , Enter the live data menu and type vol in the search box and all ECUs that report voltage will be listed for selection:
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