Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18560
I can't find any cross reference between the bearing parts Nodge specified and any other LR wheel bearing application, I think it's a red herring 06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
Last edited by Martin on 23rd Sep 2015 11:54 am. Edited 1 time in total
23rd Sep 2015 10:51 am
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18560
Sorry, Defender wheel bearings (STC4382 or RTC3429) do cross reference on Timken's site to "SET37" which contains the LM603049 and LM603011 parts.
So it's odd that the Defender wheel bearing Mikey bought didn't fit - except he got NPxxxx parts which I cannot find in any Timken lookup 06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
23rd Sep 2015 11:53 am
armalites
Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 1918
I'm pretty sure I have some RRC classic bearings which also fit Series3, if I have I will measure them and get the part numbers, they are TIMKEN ones.IID PRO
MSV Extreme
Nanocom One
23rd Sep 2015 7:16 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
Cracked it!
The bearings in each half of the case are different sizes. The LH bearing (side with the pinion) is the smaller of them.
I was replacing the bearing in the side with the axle tube. Which didn't go to plan at all...
But anyway, let's hope that clears it up for anyone else in the future My D3 Build Thread
Thanks for this excellent write-up and photos. I'm about to take on this job myself, and I have a couple questions for clarification:
1) The RH side "extension tube" the drive shaft runs through... is this the same thing that some are calling the "crush sleeve?" If so, some have said this must be replaced when pulling the differential. Is it because the attached O ring is delicate and can get damaged? I haven't begun the process yet, so I'm trying to reconcile what different sources are saying.
2) Why do you need to replace the shaft seal? Is this required to get the race out? For example, if I find that I need to replace the bearings on both sides, I would assume I would also need to replace the seals on both sides?
7th Oct 2015 10:56 pm
Nodge68
Member Since: 05 Sep 2014
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1014
@ proslambanomenos
The RHS drive shaft has a long extension section that is inside the extension tube. The extension tube is sealed to the diff housing with a thin O ring which is easily damaged. The crush tube is located between the pinion bearings. I didn't remove those for the repair I did as the bearings were smooth and quiet. I replaced the LHS drive shaft seal because it was easier to get to the bearing cup while it was removed. I suspect it is possible to remove the bearing cup with the seal in place but there would be an element of risk to the delicate seal face.
Here's a diagram of a clamshell diff. The crush tube shown as part No: 22
Freelander SE 2005 Auto.
D3 TDV6. Gone.
8th Oct 2015 7:15 pm
Cliff2ord
Member Since: 04 Mar 2012
Location: Bankfoot
Posts: 33
Getting drive shafts out of diff
i'm in the process of removing diff but can't get half shafts out of diff. I've managed to free ends from hubs ok but can't see any reason why they shouldn't come out of diff? Should they slide out easily or do they need a bit of force. Don't want to attack them to forcefully in case I break something.
Any advice appreciated.
Raymond
18th Oct 2015 2:38 pm
proslambanomenos
Member Since: 07 Oct 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 4
Okay, thanks Nodge. I finally have some time this weekend to dive in and try this project.
I'm not mechanically inept, but I haven't ever stripped it down to suspension before. I just want to check with you on what that means regarding this differential project.
Here are the steps the factory manual specifies, but I think it assumes complete half shaft removal.
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove halfshaft hub nut
3. Disconnect stabilizer bar link (required?)
4. Unbolt the brake hose bracket (brake flexy bracket)
5. loosen tie-rod end ball joint retaining nut (required?)
6. disconnect tie-rod ball joint from wheel knuckle (required?)
7. disconnect from upper control arm ball joint (what did you use to disconnect? a few smart blows with a good hammer? i'm worried about damaging the ball joint boot)
8. how'd you get the half shaft backed out of the hub?
Are there any unnecessary steps listed above for this specific project? For that matter, am I missing anything? d? (I realize the right side requires additional work on the extension tube, as you've already specified.)
Thanks again, I'm looking forward to trying this out.[/list]
23rd Oct 2015 11:07 pm
proslambanomenos
Member Since: 07 Oct 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 4
I'll guess Cliff2ord has it out by now but here's what I did to get the half shaft out. I bought a pickle fork for separating the ball joint from the wheel knuckle and it was worthless. But it did come in handy for this. I oriented it in a levering position against the frame and smacked it sideways with a 4lb hammer a few times in and it popped loose.
25th Oct 2015 2:23 am
Nodge68
Member Since: 05 Sep 2014
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1014
Re: Getting drive shafts out of diff
Cliff2ord wrote:
i'm in the process of removing diff but can't get half shafts out of diff. I've managed to free ends from hubs ok but can't see any reason why they shouldn't come out of diff? Should they slide out easily or do they need a bit of force. Don't want to attack them to forcefully in case I break something.
Any advice appreciated.
Raymond
The inner drive shaft joint is held in with a C ring. This needs a tap or some leverage to dislodge. It's not difficult. I use a couple of 14" tyre levers for this operation.Freelander SE 2005 Auto.
D3 TDV6. Gone.
25th Oct 2015 10:01 pm
Nodge68
Member Since: 05 Sep 2014
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1014
proslambanomenos wrote:
Okay, thanks Nodge. I finally have some time this weekend to dive in and try this project.
I'm not mechanically inept, but I haven't ever stripped it down to suspension before. I just want to check with you on what that means regarding this differential project.
Here are the steps the factory manual specifies, but I think it assumes complete half shaft removal.
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove halfshaft hub nut
3. Disconnect stabilizer bar link (required?)
4. Unbolt the brake hose bracket (brake flexy bracket)
5. loosen tie-rod end ball joint retaining nut (required?)
6. disconnect tie-rod ball joint from wheel knuckle (required?)
7. disconnect from upper control arm ball joint (what did you use to disconnect? a few smart blows with a good hammer? i'm worried about damaging the ball joint boot)
8. how'd you get the half shaft backed out of the hub?
Are there any unnecessary steps listed above for this specific project? For that matter, am I missing anything? d? (I realize the right side requires additional work on the extension tube, as you've already specified.)
Thanks again, I'm looking forward to trying this out.[/list]
I didn't undo anything like that many parts but I've been doing this stuff for many years. I simply undid the upper arm ball joints and track rods end joints. This gave me sufficient space to withdraw the inner CV joints from the diff.Freelander SE 2005 Auto.
D3 TDV6. Gone.
25th Oct 2015 10:06 pm
Cliff2ord
Member Since: 04 Mar 2012
Location: Bankfoot
Posts: 33
Getting Diff out
Thanks for information so far. I've managed to get offside shaft out but still struggling with short one. You mention a 'C' ring. Where exactly is that? I can't see anything that looks like a C ring at the diff end?
However I reckon I can drop the diff without taking shaft out first.
My latest problem now is that the bolt holding the diff at the front is simply spinning in situ and I can't get it out!
1st Nov 2015 2:45 pm
brightyuk
Member Since: 11 Apr 2013
Location: Bedworth
Posts: 394
Clifford
This is the C clip
I find they have to be tapped out. They fit in here
As to your problem with the bolt on the front diff. There is a nut on the other side help by a piece of metal Similar to this.
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