Member Since: 05 Sep 2014
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1014
Niel wrote:
More likely the torque/power applied by the pinion causing the one bearing to more highly loaded than the other. The other possibility is the castings when machined have traces of 'fines' left hidden that migrate more easily to that bearing, or debris from the gears...
Good job, though I'd use a hammer and drift I'd remove the outer when installing the inner and bearing to reduce mass and the possibility of brinelling the new bearing, a press is better if you have one.
I left the cup on to help reduce the chance of dabris getting onto the rollers during the drifting process. Any brinelling would be minimal due to the inner cone being drifted, not the outer cup. A press would be the best bet but I don't have one at home. Besides I thought I'd use tools that are likely already in the average home machanic's arsenal. Freelander SE 2005 Auto.
D3 TDV6. Gone.
Last edited by Nodge68 on 10th Sep 2015 3:10 pm. Edited 1 time in total
10th Sep 2015 3:08 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Nodge that's an excellent job and write up, well done
10th Sep 2015 3:10 pm
Nodge68
Member Since: 05 Sep 2014
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1014
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Nodge68 wrote:
I'd have thought the bearing would be rated to take the load. Interestingly, the same bearing is used as a wheel bearing in some LR models.
It's not a Defender wheel bearing is it?
Do you still have the numbers of the bearing handy?
Defender, Discovery 1 and RR Classic appear to use the same bearings and are only about £10 each if bought for that application for Genuine TIMKEN BEARINGS LM603049 / LM60301.Freelander SE 2005 Auto.
D3 TDV6. Gone.
10th Sep 2015 3:15 pm
eenomc
Member Since: 07 Oct 2013
Location: Moray
Posts: 173
DDDad wrote:
Learnt a new word: brinelling. "To make a permanent indentation in a surface".
Me too, will be using that this week with my metal working class.
10th Sep 2015 5:32 pm
hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482
Excellent write up
One wonders how many "almost good diff's" but for the sake of one bearing, have been replaced at great cost, and have been scrapped.
Andi.
10th Sep 2015 5:39 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20855
Nodge68 wrote:
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Nodge68 wrote:
I'd have thought the bearing would be rated to take the load. Interestingly, the same bearing is used as a wheel bearing in some LR models.
It's not a Defender wheel bearing is it?
Do you still have the numbers of the bearing handy?
Defender, Discovery 1 and RR Classic appear to use the same bearings and are only about £10 each if bought for that application for Genuine TIMKEN BEARINGS LM603049 / LM60301.
I had already ordered one in anticipation
Though if it's only a Defender wheel bearing, that explains why it up so often My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 05 Sep 2014
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1014
It's not an ideal bearing for the job it does, but my D3 has done 175K miles. After doing my diff by removing it and stripping it on the bench. I now think I could well have stripped it while it was still fitted to the chassis mounts. To do the failed bearing, only the LH side casing needs to be removed. The 14 casing bolts are all accessible from underneath. It should be possible and would save stripping the RH side suspension and having to lift that heavy lump back into the chassis.Freelander SE 2005 Auto.
D3 TDV6. Gone.
10th Sep 2015 8:02 pm
Niel
Member Since: 15 Jul 2015
Location: Southampton, 'Ampshir'
Posts: 169
Nodge68 wrote:
Niel wrote:
More likely the torque/power applied by the pinion causing the one bearing to more highly loaded than the other. The other possibility is the castings when machined have traces of 'fines' left hidden that migrate more easily to that bearing, or debris from the gears...
Good job, though I'd use a hammer and drift I'd remove the outer when installing the inner and bearing to reduce mass and the possibility of brinelling the new bearing, a press is better if you have one.
I left the cup on to help reduce the chance of dabris getting onto the rollers during the drifting process. Any brinelling would be minimal due to the inner cone being drifted, not the outer cup. A press would be the best bet but I don't have one at home. Besides I thought I'd use tools that are likely already in the average home machanic's arsenal.
Fair enough, though it's the weight and vibration from the reflected shock that might cause an issue, even though you were on the centre (inner) cone. False brinelling might also be an issue if the vehicles been transported a lot.
10th Sep 2015 10:47 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2346
Well I've got a bearing should I need it. I predict that my front diff will get noisy in the next 3 yrs, so by that time I'll be 45 and retired ( I wish), and I'll have lots of time to deal with all these type of things then. Just waiting for Nodge to post up the p/no for the seal. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
12th Sep 2015 7:14 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Excellent write up
12th Sep 2015 7:26 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20855
DN wrote:
Well I've got a bearing should I need it. I predict that my front diff will get noisy in the next 3 yrs, so by that time I'll be 45 and retired ( I wish), and I'll have lots of time to deal with all these type of things then. Just waiting for Nodge to post up the p/no for the seal.
TZB500050
Have one sitting in my local dealer waiting to be collected My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 1918
My RRC has 225K on it and I bought with 90K and it's never had a wheel bearing in my ownership. It's had proper good leathering too. I guess the difference is in a wheel bearing setup it can be adusted.IID PRO
MSV Extreme
Nanocom One
12th Sep 2015 7:54 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2346
Thanks D_M for the p/no. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
12th Sep 2015 7:56 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20855
armalites wrote:
My RRC has 225K on it and I bought with 90K and it's never had a wheel bearing in my ownership. It's had proper good leathering too. I guess the difference is in a wheel bearing setup it can be adusted.
It would seem they take more of a pounding in a D3 diff...
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up so 
I wish), and I'll have lots of time to deal with all these type of things then. Just waiting for Nodge to post up the p/no for the seal. 
