Member Since: 12 Aug 2010
Location: Fife
Posts: 2061
maplecottage wrote:
tayaste wrote:
Nope, I seem to own one that appears to have come from a Christmas cracker
Click image to enlarge
Same Xmas cracker as mine
Ps. Another great write up Robbie - you da man
I was going to buy one of these for occasional use????
they are £25 vs £100+ for the DiLog?
are they REALLY totally Rubbish?
thanks
Robbie - Top write up again - thank you1 TR6 Rusting away quietly
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23rd Jan 2018 10:07 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10673
The current thinking seams to be going away from using current clamps as there are a few flaws with this method.
Mikey is suggesting using a normal DMM (on the 20A range) and testing each glowplug separately.
I'd tried the clamp method to check the feeds for current with inconclusive results. I used the DMM to check the voltage, but not checked the resistance or current draw with the DMM as I'm unsure how? MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
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23rd Jan 2018 1:11 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Pete K wrote:
The current thinking seams to be going away from using current clamps as there are a few flaws with this method.
Mikey is suggesting using a normal DMM (on the 20A range) and testing each glowplug separately.
or their resistance can be measured.
Feel free to add the flaws to the thread.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10673
Some of the initial problems are that DIYers need to purchase specific equipment that they are unlikely to use for other things.
E.g current clamp
Resistor (ok only £1 for some on ebay, but you still need to order etc.)
The procedure is ok for the 1st GP tested, but in testing that one, the other 2 or 5 have heated up in the process. By the time you come to test the last ones, you won't get valid readings
You are also likely to end up with a flat battery. And you need to check for a voltage present to the GPS before hand.
Most of the time, when you test them on a 10 year old car, you get 0A and wonder if you are doing it correctly And end up testing with another method.
So Mikey is suggesting using a standard DMM that is capable of measuring 20A
So an alternative method is:
You need to be careful with it. As if you do the wrong thing its easy to break your meter (or blow a fuse in it (if there is one fitted)).
Essentially, you take the red lead out of the normal V/R terminal, and put it into the 20A terminal.
This now means that the red and black wires are connected directly together like a piece of wire, and the meter will measure the current passing thru it.
Set the DMM to the Amps DC range on 20A
Disconnect the 3 pin plug for the glowplugs.
Remove the plastic cover over the battery.
To a single pin on the glowplug end connect the black wire and hold it there.
With your other hand, connect the red meter lead to the battery + terminal.
If the glowplug is working you should get a small spark.
Read the value of the meter.
It should be at least 7A on a cold engine.
A failed plug will read 0
Test the next pin / glowplug.
WHEN FINISHED, UNPLUG THE RED LEAD FROM YOUR METER, OTHERWISE WHEN YOU PICK IT UP NEXT TIME TO USE NORMALLY, YOU WILL BLOW THE FUSE !
Last edited by Pete K on 20th Oct 2018 6:19 pm. Edited 1 time in total
23rd Jan 2018 6:33 pm
G_Cam
Member Since: 12 Aug 2010
Location: Fife
Posts: 2061
If you don't have a suitable DMM I guess you could also go old school and use one of these...?
1 TR6 Rusting away quietly
1 FARR UTV SOLD
1 International Harvester SOLD
7 x D3 all SOLD
2 x D4 both SOLD
1 x Mrs D4 'Panther' SOLD
1 x Outlander van SOLD
1 continual stream of car parts and me living in the garage...
24th Jan 2018 9:57 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10673
you could use one of those, if you happen to have one.
24th Jan 2018 12:06 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Most regular DMMs top out at 10 amps, even the good ones. Most cheap DMMs have zero blast protection and omit an HRC fuse, so be very careful before you think of putting a DMM in series with a high amperage circuit.
Remember, a DMM set in current mode is just a straight jumper wire that will happily provide power to anything it touches - accidentally or otherwise. Always check for a dead short before you think about testing current with a DMM.
Clamps do need a technique to use properly, but they are always safe.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 09 Nov 2018
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 4
Hi, sorry if I missed this, but could anyone tell me how many glow plugs are on a Discovery3 2.7 TDV engine please?
9th Nov 2018 7:41 pm
Fireburst
Member Since: 02 Nov 2017
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 195
Six!
9th Nov 2018 7:52 pm
Vale
Member Since: 09 Nov 2018
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 4
Thank you very much!!!
10th Nov 2018 1:08 pm
Kenny57
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
Hi, sorry to bring up an old thread but I've only recently got into D3 ownership and I'm working my way through issues... the latest one being poor starting. Ie, its fine in my warm garage, but getting more and more difficult outside as the weather gets colder.
I've read the threads (this one is awesome btw) and checked the basics. Fusible links, all good, voltage to the fusible links all good. Bought a di-log clamp meter like the one in the picture... Nada! No meaningful current on any of my glow plugs (got a few milliamps but guessing that's noise). I even checked the clamp meter on a few of the lights and an old 12v fan... its working fine.
So.... before I take the plunge and try and get all the glow plugs out, am I missing anything? Any more checks I should do?
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thank you
And end up testing with another method.
