Hi Everyone, first post here, but the forum has already helped me out of a tight spot multiple times just browsing through conversations ! So thanks everyone !
I had to pull the emergency release the other day. Already watched a bunch of youtube videos and read through the prior posts. My problem is that things are even less accessible on an 08 HSE. (Same situation as shown in the picture on the previous page by Andrewcc2012)
My plan is to just reattach the emergency release inside the module after getting it unstuck and rewinding it. Does anyone have experience with accessibility when the spare tyre mount is in the way ? Do I need to take that off too or can the job be done as is ?
4th Oct 2022 11:14 am
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 568
Hi, is the module the other way around on an 08 HSE?
When I had to unjam mine, I could access it from the other side of that makes sense? So effectively underneath the vehicle in line with the the second row seats, looking at the module from that side. It was fiddly and I had to reach in from the wheel arch to lever the sealant off the cover as I couldn't get enough effort behind it from underneath the vehicle. Did it over two half days. Gave me a bit of neck ache so ended up resting my head on a shoe box to save the neck muscles.
I don't think it's the other way round, but I got the impression from videos and posts that it's much easier to access from the back where the spare wheel is. Remove the piece of metal to which it is attached and turn it 180 degrees to have proper access...
I can barely see the module actually looking through from the side where the transmission is so I'm having a hard time imagining that I'll be working from that side Do other people who are doing it from that side have more space due to no locking diff in the rear or something ?
I'll get cracking somehow on the weekend, but right now I'm not sure whether it's better to attack it from the back or from the front.
4th Oct 2022 3:46 pm
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 568
Ah ok. I don't have the locking diff so wouldn't know if that may get in the way. I accessed it as i described, but suppose it might be easier from that side of you can turn it over. I left it attached so I'd have some leverage, if needed, to free the jammed cogs. As it turned out, they unjammed quite easily.
Hardest part for me was getting the cover off as the screws had rusted (which is odd on a landrover ) and prising the cover off due to the adhesive seal around the edges.
The few screws I was able to make out were looking good, so maybe I'm lucky there. I'm not convinced I can actually access all of them from the front though, will find out this weekend I guess
I think I'll give it a go from the front working around the driveshaft and exhaust first, looks like it will save a lot of time IF I can manage to get to it from that side. Wish me luck
Managed to get this repair done yesterday. The most difficult part in my case was to get the brass rod unstuck. Once it was unstuck it spun very easily. I struggled initially because I was not sure how much force I could apply and there is nothing to lever against. So after messing around for a while with different methods I settled on small pry bar (better than screw driver because the kink helps) and hammer. May be the pry bar also delivers the impact a bit better as per design.
Aiming the prybar into the groove that's best positioned to rotate the rod down and towards you on impact it just took 5 minutes of persistent blows with the hammer to get it going. I would definitely try this method again next time. (Without pictures I didn't see a way how a huge wrecking bar could be applied to make the process quicker)
So glad this worked. Many thanks to all the previous contributors on this thread !
Simply drill out the hole with a 4.0 mm drill and loosen the brass threaded sleeve with a 4.0 mm punch and hammer. Important: The punch must be ground sharp.
interesting approach ! I had to re-attach as I had to pull the emergency release, so I had to remove the cover anyways.
I suppose this method could save some time if the EPB gets stuck when the car is at home. The screws on my module are in very good condition so removing the cover was quite easy though. It look like you did this with the module off the vehicle ?
Hi John,
no, that can be solved when installed. The lid is strongly glued. But I analyzed the entire parking brake and made it fit. There were very many and nasty design weaknesses.
Nice workshop ! I have to work from a shed crammed full of tools
I read about the issue with the glue, in my case working at it with a small pry bar and a screwdriver it wasn't really an issue. Took me much longer to find the right approach to get the brass rod unstuck.
All of the EPB controller housings that I examined were no longer water-proof in the connector area.
Click image to enlarge
12th Oct 2022 5:33 pm
Rbillington
Member Since: 25 Sep 2021
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 39
Trying to sort my EPB, 2012 disco 4.
Why did Land Rover see fit to put even more metal in the way of the module?
I thought I could do this on axle stands, but I can’t even get to the module let alone turning it round or opening it. If any of you have managed this you deserve an award.
The near side is jammed on, so can’t even drive to a garage at the moment. And scared what the bill will be without a tow truck involved. Pulled the emergency release, done all of that, and no joy.
As a garage needs to replace it and are likely to just do the whole module rather than rebuilding it, can I cut the handbrake cable, and do you think that’d release the shoes. Or is it more likely they’ve jammed up with rust?
Just thinking that at least if the wheel turns I can drive to the local garage and leave it with them to enjoy accessing the Epb module.Disco 4 2012 HSE, Nara Bronze
Gone but not forgotten
2007 FreeL2 XS, Stornoway Grey
18th Dec 2022 11:08 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10367
You need to pull the release really hard
Use leaverage like wheel brace
18th Dec 2022 11:16 am
Rbillington
Member Since: 25 Sep 2021
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 39
I thought I had. Yanked and yanked on it. It pulls up about 3”, to just below the level of the centre console. But feels like it stops at the end of its motion.
Am I not being tough enough? As any more and it feels like it’ll snap.
And if this is all it needed I’d be gutted as I sat waiting for 14 hours for the RAC to recover us 😳Disco 4 2012 HSE, Nara Bronze
Gone but not forgotten
2007 FreeL2 XS, Stornoway Grey
18th Dec 2022 11:25 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10367
Better to break that, than cut a cable under the car.
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Do other people who are doing it from that side have more space due to no locking diff in the rear or something ?
) and prising the cover off due to the adhesive seal around the edges.
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