Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: London
Posts: 292
Timing belt change - DIY?
Hi folks
Timing belt / big service is due on the time interval shortly, on my 255k '05 TDV6 D3. I'm tempted to try the job myself. Can also pay a garage to do it but I do find working on the car to be enjoyable and think it's a good opportunity to learn.
Is it do-able for a careful and reasonably mechanically-minded home mechanic if I take plenty of time? Or am I being naive and should I just pay someone else to get it done?
If you are going to do it then change the Oil pump and water pump at the same time, its much easier doing them at the same time, Also check the aux belt tensioner at the same time as these fall apart.
Search the board as Disco Mikey did a write up on belt change and I have a pdf file on how to change the oil pump in my gallery.
Plus plenty of help and reading on the board about the subject.
Flack
22nd Jun 2024 10:11 am
disco chris
Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: London
Posts: 292
Thanks Flack. I've seen the guides on here that you and DM have posted for the timing belt and oil pump - thank you as I don't think I'd attempt it without them. Bit nervous about the oil pump. Main question, is it too much for a DIY job for a moderately experienced DIY'er or should I just go for it.
If you are handy with spanners and can follow the guides, then go for it, just take your time, always on hand on the board for help.
Flack
22nd Jun 2024 3:06 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10729
for the oil pump, you will need some scafold bar to get the bolt undone.
And torque wrench best to retighen. Not small figures here. It needs to be tight
22nd Jun 2024 3:27 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 345
The guides and the great people on here are your best help! I tackled mine three years ago, never done anything that involved on a car before (been a mechanic for 20-odd years tho). If you're handy with spanners, I support the rest here. Go for it, and there's plenty of advice available from the forum members.
22nd Jun 2024 9:35 pm
disco chris
Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: London
Posts: 292
Evening gents
Slowly gathering the bits I need to attempt this - planning to do it before Christmas.
I'd like to do the oil pump at the same time. It's been on there for 7 years and about 70k miles, so not too worn, but just seems worth doing while I'm down there, so to speak.
However, I just can't find the special tool to install the front crankshaft oil seal. I've scoured the internet but drawn a blank. Does anyone have any idea where I can find one? I don't really want to bodge the job with something inferior and risk it all going wrong.
Many thanks.
Chris
2nd Oct 2024 7:58 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2346
Unless you have access to a warm garage, I would recommend doing this in the summer Crawling underneath to remove / refit the starter, for locking pin access, outside in Winter, NOT a good idea.D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
2nd Oct 2024 8:25 pm
disco chris
Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: London
Posts: 292
Fortunately, I do
But I still don't have the oil seal tool
Chris
2nd Oct 2024 8:31 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2346
I used these, the clear plastic tapered guide that fits on the front of the crankshaft ( was supplied with the victor reinz seal, but I fitted a GENUINE LR SEAL) , and the metal tube, I made to push the seal into the housing and recess it 1mm, using the old crank pulley bolt and a big washer. You are welcome to use these if you like. This worked fine on mine, and the seal didn’t leak afterwards, which worryingly has been known to happen.
Click image to enlarge
D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
2nd Oct 2024 8:47 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5060
disco chris wrote:
I'd like to do the oil pump at the same time. It's been on there for 7 years and about 70k miles, so not too worn, but just seems worth doing while I'm down there, so to speak.
Intuition is your best friend, go for it!
disco chris wrote:
However, I just can't find the special tool to install the front crankshaft oil seal. I've scoured the internet but drawn a blank. Does anyone have any idea where I can find one? I don't really want to bodge the job with something inferior and risk it all going wrong.
If you can't find the tool online you could easily knock one up on a lathe from just about any material you want. If you don't have a lathe, you can knock one out from a even a broom handle so long as it's the same diameter as the crank. It doesn't need to be a high precise instrument, it just needs to be the same diameter as the crank with a dead center hole to hold it in place. And, a conical end for the seal to slip on without distorting it.
Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: London
Posts: 292
Thanks PROFSR G for the encouragement - I have decided I will do the oil pump too. Better get shopping for parts
Many thanks DN - that's much appreciated. I have bought the 3D printed tool that PROFSR G linked as it's only £20, buy I might take you up on your offer in case the one I've bought is rubbish, it doesn't look like you're too far from me. I'll drop you a PM closer to the time to see if you're around.
On another note, I've seen a few posts now about the cam pulleys breaking on the spokes and causing timing, and therefore engine, failure. What's the consensus on preemptively renewing these pulleys during the timing belt change? Worth doing or a waste of time, effort, money?
3rd Oct 2024 10:32 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5060
The pulleys are worth considering especially the left (d/s) if you can find them. There are aftermarket ones out there but I personally wouldn't risk them. Pulley failure is not uncommon, but it's not a high frequency failure either. If you can find a genuine left side go for it, otherwise leave as is.
Make sure you have all your "ducks in a row" (parts & tools) before you begin the work. And, that the crank seal is a genuine LR seal, not an aftermarket version which is prone to being spat out be the engine!
If you can't find a LR seal then you'll have to use Loctite to hold an aftermarket in place.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
3rd Oct 2024 12:21 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10729
Consider a new, genuine one of these tensioner bolts. It should be an improved version
Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: London
Posts: 292
Thanks both. Can I re-use the bolts for the camshaft pulleys, or do I need to source new ones? I'm assuming they're not single use, I think they're only torqued to 25nm unless I'm mistaken. There seem to be a few places selling genuine pulleys for about £100 per side so I think I'll do it given the mileage on the car / old pulleys, might as well do a proper job while I'm in there.
I've made a list of tools and parts that I'll need and will make sure I've got them all ready before I start taking things apart.
Special tools to buy:
Crankshaft front seal install tool
Timing tool kit QP1924100
Laser viscous fan spanners L26124
Parts:
Timing belt kit (Dayco) LR016655
Tensioner bolt LR006027
Fuel pump belt kit (Dayco) LR019115
2 x Timing belt idler pulleys LR1311306
Oil Pump FoMoCo LR123716
Genuine crankshaft oil seal LR1102415
Crankshaft bolt M14 LR002458
Aux belt and tensioner PQG500250
Thermostat housing water outlet LR073372 (+ additional O ring?)
Throttle body rear seal x 2 LR1316152
Throttle body front seal x 1 LR008353
EGR pipe clip 1311338
Water pump LR009324G
Genuine Camshaft pulleys LH LR120557 and RH LR120556
Hopefully that list will be handy for anyone else in future. If you think of anything I've missed and need to add, please do let me know.
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Crawling underneath to remove / refit the starter, for locking pin access, outside in Winter, NOT a good idea.
