Member Since: 18 Jul 2023
Location: swinton
Posts: 3
Hi I’m more than likely in the wrong thread
Im new to this and anything like this I still use one finger to write messages 😂
I’ve got a disco 3 07 plate I’ve had major problems with it since I bought it 3 years ago , but I’m very hands on and stubborn.
About 8 months ago the air suspension gave up and after weeks of checking it all out with soapy water
I decided to change it to coil springs
I did this took about a week 🤣
Now when I drive it it’s started to make a grinding sound like the front brakes are trying to come on but then 2 amber warning lights come on and it drives fine
The lights are the triangle with circle arrow round it and the circle one with the pads at the side
Im really really stuck and any help would be appreciated
Once again I’m sorry if this is the wrong group or tread
19th Jul 2023 3:56 pm
Jase3983
Member Since: 29 Jan 2017
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4
Hi Guys, Can you confirm this is the issue with mine screeching? Does the photo show mine has fully extended and needs adjusting please?
22nd Jul 2023 6:00 pm
1784
Member Since: 04 Sep 2009
Location: Almunge
Posts: 170
Yes, to me it looks like the brass rod is fully winded up on the threaded part, but if that is due to the shoes being out of adjustment or a cable has become unattached or snapped is harder to see on this image. Anyways, time to service and adjust both sides and unjam the module as described in this thread.Defender 110 SE 2021, Tasman Blue
Discovery 1 V8 ES 1997, Epsom green
Discovery 3 V8 HSE 2006, Bonatti Grey
Range Rover V8 1983, Sierra Silver
22nd Jul 2023 9:39 pm
Jase3983
Member Since: 29 Jan 2017
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4
Great, Just finding it hard to loosen the brass, Hitting it downwards is not moving and theres no room to get any grips around it due to plastic, I will go again tomorrow.
22nd Jul 2023 10:45 pm
Holmkiern
Member Since: 16 Jul 2017
Location: Upphärad,west coast
Posts: 65
Well,EPB blocket and released it by wire some time ago and started to check IF I could fix it since MOT is soon. Adjusted max release on hand brake shoes on right side but was not able to release disc. Thought that there might be more slack in wire inside EPB but crawling under I see that the 8 screws holding lid is so corroded so I cant release them under car.
Question: how hard is it to take EPB out? Is it online the nuts for hand brake cabels , electric connection and some screws? White are the screws for EPB positioned?
10th Aug 2023 1:38 pm
Jase3983
Member Since: 29 Jan 2017
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4
If they’re corroded i would put some grips over and turn them as they’re only into plastic and not tight at all, I would try that first. Good luck.
10th Aug 2023 2:39 pm
Holmkiern
Member Since: 16 Jul 2017
Location: Upphärad,west coast
Posts: 65
Well,the screws are so corroded that I cant get a grip of them. The bushings holding the EPB hade split so at least I got some movement and was able to loosen at least one hand brake nut.
Honestly,I have done some difficult stuff on cars but this take the cake.
Seems my only option is to release wire at wheels,release contact housing as soon as I understand how to release it and then figure out how to release the release wire and then make a try to pull the crap out.
Are the wire destroyed normaly when pulling it out from brake sheild?
14th Aug 2023 9:48 am
kttlaweb
Member Since: 14 Oct 2017
Location: Derby
Posts: 3
Click image to enlarge
I have just picked up a 'new' to me 2009 RRS, it had a EPB fault and the seller said it had just happened.
Having stripped both sides, one side was totally missed the handbrake shows. The EPB has been pull with these not fitted,
I need to release some cable to enable fitting of new shoes.
I have got into the EPB...but the brass rod if wound all the way to the left, not the right! It also appears that the black rod isn't present? Has it wound all the way in?
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Is there actually bits missing from inside the module?
Any help would be appreciated.
17th Sep 2023 1:59 pm
1784
Member Since: 04 Sep 2009
Location: Almunge
Posts: 170
I'm not an expert on these things but from my understanding:
The brass rod will go to left or right depending on which side of the brake/brake cable that has a problem, but the problem is the same, that it tightens more than it can undo by itself. The brass rod moves freely side to side in it's length.
Try freeing it up by hitting the upper side of with a chisel in the "slot" to get it to start to unwindDefender 110 SE 2021, Tasman Blue
Discovery 1 V8 ES 1997, Epsom green
Discovery 3 V8 HSE 2006, Bonatti Grey
Range Rover V8 1983, Sierra Silver
17th Sep 2023 3:41 pm
kttlaweb
Member Since: 14 Oct 2017
Location: Derby
Posts: 3
Thanks, this was my thought process, so being the opposite side, this needs to go Up (clockwise)...
The issue with this going to the left rather than the right is the axel is in the way...having tried for 3 hours to try and get this moving.
My thought process is now this:
1. Pull the emergency release, thus enabling the brass rod to move to the right.
2. This should also free some cable so i can get the handbrake shoes on.
3. unjam the brass rod going upwards.
Does this sound right?
17th Sep 2023 4:18 pm
ladsjohn
Member Since: 12 Nov 2023
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3
Hi guys. Had the screech of death and a brake fault. Pulled the cable and drove on for a few weeks.
Unjammed my EPB manually today and wound the black bar in 5 revolutions. Gears looked fine but also replaced them while I was in there. Relatched manually also.
Reassembled everything and did a complete rear brake job (pads, rotors and shoes) per Bodsy’s Bible.
Now when I apply the parking brake, I hear it winding for a few seconds and then get the screeching.
Tried re-adjusting the shoes a few times but no luck.
I’ve verified the cables are attached properly to the lever on the shoes and can see them retracting (using a boroscope) when the brake is applied.
The EPB disengages fine right now but I am concerned it may jam up hard again.
IIDtool shows no faults now.
Looking for some inspiration.
One other thing to note - I tried adjusting the shoes all the way out to the rotor so there would be little to no slack to take up when the motor engaged (my rationale was that the cables had stretched beyond the limit of what the module could handle). Applying the parking brake in this position results in it running briefly before again screeching like a banshee.
Appreciate any feedback
Thanks!
12th Nov 2023 9:09 pm
ladsjohn
Member Since: 12 Nov 2023
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3
Last try here before I fork out for a new actuator.
I now no longer get the dreaded screeching. Instead, when I pull the handbrake button; I can hear the motor winding in for a few seconds before winding out again. It repeats this 2 or 3 times before giving me an amber FAULT light on the dash.
IIDTool shows no significant movement on the force sensor value during this period and I no longer see the cable ends move. It's almost as if one of the cables has snapped (I doubt that is what has happened but the symptoms are in line with that) or the unit is unlatched (though I latched it manually before reassembly).
Issuing the Mounting or Latching command via IIDTool does nothing. No errors. No apparent movement. A fault light appears until I exit the Service I/O -> Position menu.
If I'm pulling this apart again; I'm going to have a new actuator + cables on hand to put in its place. URO seem to have one for about $400 new so that's the direction I'm going to go.
Unless anyone has any last minute words of inspiration?
16th Nov 2023 7:48 pm
jp1
Member Since: 29 Jan 2020
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 17
Thanks so much for this thread, successfully executed.on my 2006 RRS and totally my fault for not checking shoes more.often.
Only thing I would also add is take a pic of the brass part, it helps ensure you are hammering on the right part of the assembly!! I wasn't and within 2 mins of me looking at pic I had freed it up and then wound it back to relatch
21st Nov 2023 1:05 pm
ladsjohn
Member Since: 12 Nov 2023
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3
Click image to enlarge
I wanted to close out my query to this thread. In my post I mentioned that I had followed OP's procedure but continued to have issues. Well, I pulled the module again and it seems that while I was reassembling first time around I managed to crimp the manual release cable by reinstalling the motor gearbox on top of it (see attached pic).
I was doing the disassembly/assembly in the wheel well and didn't double check my work. After I had buttoned everything back up; I ran though some GAP tool checks which moved the mechanism around (move to mount/latch position). With the release cable crimped; the movement served to unlatch the mechanism again without my knowledge.
I fixed the cable routing, reassembled and after a bed-in procedure everything is working as it should.
Thanks OP! Great write up.
P.S For those wary of doing this on an LR4 through the wheel well (and not from underneath like the LR3); don't sweat it. There's plenty of room.
Thanks all.
1st Dec 2023 7:11 pm
Landylad
Member Since: 23 Dec 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 366
Completely devoid of ideas on how to get the handbrake module out of my MY12. Access seems blocked from both from and rear. Replaced shoes which were pretty much seized (cable arm). But no joy doing the latching or unjamming from the GAP IIDTool. See photos below.
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successfully executed.on my 2006 RRS and totally my fault for not checking shoes more.often.
