Member Since: 10 Oct 2012
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 109
No haven't done that.
Anything I should look for thanks
13th Oct 2014 7:54 pm
bear1009
Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: aberdeen
Posts: 214
check the cables are properly seated and the spring that holds the flap down is properly in place as my spring had become stretched and the cable slipped out causing the handbrake to wind all the way out and jam tinted windows
led sidelights
new fuel pump
disco 3 sticker
4x4 screen unlocked ( thanks bell autos)
bell autos egr blanking kit
halo fog day running lights
ffrr sat nav hack
gvif reverse camera
clear side indicators
alisport intercooler hoses
14th Oct 2014 7:10 am
GFOS31
Member Since: 10 Oct 2012
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 109
Thanks
I will be back on the car this afternoon.
I assume when you say the spring you mean at the Shoe end and not then Moduale.
J
14th Oct 2014 7:44 am
bear1009
Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: aberdeen
Posts: 214
Yes it's behind the shoes tinted windows
led sidelights
new fuel pump
disco 3 sticker
4x4 screen unlocked ( thanks bell autos)
bell autos egr blanking kit
halo fog day running lights
ffrr sat nav hack
gvif reverse camera
clear side indicators
alisport intercooler hoses
14th Oct 2014 1:56 pm
GFOS31
Member Since: 10 Oct 2012
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 109
Well chuffed, yes the cable had come detached from the back of the shoe on the OS. So that's why it was jamming. Little retaining flap had lifted. I now have a working EPB, thanks for all your help. EPB shoes stripped and cleaned both sides. So all good.
Just need the 4 wheel alignment tomorrow after the wish bones and a re test and we are Good to go.
14th Oct 2014 7:21 pm
bear1009
Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: aberdeen
Posts: 214
tinted windows
led sidelights
new fuel pump
disco 3 sticker
4x4 screen unlocked ( thanks bell autos)
bell autos egr blanking kit
halo fog day running lights
ffrr sat nav hack
gvif reverse camera
clear side indicators
alisport intercooler hoses
15th Oct 2014 7:45 am
Magnet6x6
Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Al Hamra, Oman
Posts: 165
Theunis Kruger wrote:
Right, a bit if feedback: solidly jammed so took the liberty of removing motor and gearbox, fortunately shaft still in perfect condition. Cleaned, lubed and closed up. Re-assembled and tried again, now working perfectly!!
One thing though: on SA spec the diff lock motor screws you, so I had to go through spare well, remove bracket and flip module upside down. A bit more work, but worth it!!
Many thanks D_M, much much appreciated!!!
Mike thanks so much for posting.
I'm trying to do this in the middle of nowhere with jacks and axle stands and finding clearance an issue. Just getting the screws out was a mission So Theunis I'd be very grateful in hearing from you and the guys who have gone in through the spare wheel well and flipped the unit.
Any photos or tips on how to would be very much appreciated. I'm having a little trouble imagining what you did.
TIAIf we weren't supposed to eat meat why did God make animals taste so good?
Prospeed XRS, traxide, Mitch Hitch, life is good.
1st Nov 2014 12:44 pm
beesle
Member Since: 17 Jun 2008
Location: widnes, cheshire
Posts: 117
Hi guys,
Had the dreaded squeeling, pull the emergency disconnect and got under the car. Took the cover of the epb module and tried to wind it back but it just won't budge!!! I'm starting to doubt myself as to which way I should be trying to turn the brass arm.
I'm working from the back of the car, looking dirctly at the epb module. Should I be spinning the arm towards me or away from Me?
19th Nov 2014 8:27 pm
GFOS31
Member Since: 10 Oct 2012
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 109
Do you have access to a diagnostic computer, I found that once I had managed to un jam it slightly with a large screwdriver and a hammer. I then used the computer to reset it and rewind it. I struggled for hours to try and wind it back manualy without using the computer.
19th Nov 2014 8:56 pm
beesle
Member Since: 17 Jun 2008
Location: widnes, cheshire
Posts: 117
I don't unfortunately, I was debating wether to attached a 12 power supply directly to the motor in reverse to wind it back. Would that work?
I have begun to remove the epb module completely from the car as I expect the cogs to be fried and a new replacement needed. I have undo everything, just got to fingered out how to get it out of the car, can anyone advise the best hole to remove it from, the cables are a nightmare always in thee way arrrrr
19th Nov 2014 9:51 pm
Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1790
Hope I'm not too late but as Mike says on page 1, if you are at the rear passenger wheel and looking at the EPB turn it down or anti-clockwise
19th Nov 2014 11:05 pm
Discoed
Member Since: 16 Jun 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 1020
My indy followed the 'how to' and fixed my EPB module - This was the first he'd done - normally would have replaced the unit. So instead of a £600 bill for supply and fit I had a £107 bill for a fix.
19th Nov 2014 11:31 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20855
Yay!
My local dealer replaces that many EPB modules, they keep them in stock.
They were very surprised to hear I have not replaced one in 3 years now My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Al Hamra, Oman
Posts: 165
Rear entry
Magnet6x6 wrote:
So Theunis I'd be very grateful in hearing from you and the guys who have gone in through the spare wheel well and flipped the unit.
Any photos or tips on how to would be very much appreciated. I'm having a little trouble imagining what you did. TIA
Given the overwhelming number of responses I guess I asked a daft question, so best I answer it my self
This is for those nervous nellies like me who are a little hesitant about jumping into things without knowing exactly what they’ll face. Hope this helps any one else contemplating a rear entry
This is on a left hand drive V8 HSE. I’d trashed the epb shoes and had dismantled the assemblies on both sides of the car.
I tried Mikey’s way from the front of the axle but working with axle stands meant no head room at all and I really struggled to even remove the screws from the module cover and there seemed little likelihood of being able to prise the lid off module let alone wield a lever against the brass bar. So I picked up on comments from Theunis Kruger & Mikesaint01 and decided to try going in through the spare wheel area, hence my question.
Remove the spare wheel
Unbolt the emissions canister, an easy 2x 10mm bolts
Slide the canister out as far as it will go & release the three pipes
There are two different types of “squeezie pop†connections.
I found the centre one really fiddly
Released the three plastic clips holding the airline to the epb plate.
I levered against the plate with a small screw driver to release them
cut the tape holding the loom to the plate
Unbolt four easy 10mm bolts that hold the epb mounting plate to the chassis
“Just flip it†they said, yeah right
I could only get it to move an inch in either direction so .....
Separated the module from the mounting plate, again two easy 10mm bolts.
Levered the module upwards to clear the mounting spigots & rotated both items forwards towards the front of the car and pulled the plate out backwards.
If you rotate the plate and module toward the rear of the car with the idea of pushing them forward and pulling the module back, the plate can become jammed in the loom and gaps in the chassis
At this point, whilst improved the module still had limited rotational movement in either direction and was under a lot of tension so .....
unscrewed and pulled free the hand brake cable retainers on both sides of the module
this exposed the inner cables and gave enough slack to comfortably rotate the epb module and to access the torx screws.
Pried off the module lid by carefully levering off the bolt mounting points at the top and the epb module mechanism became accessible.
The initial unwinding was a bit stiff but once started was fairly easy. I used plumbers pliers against the ridges on the brass bar and against the top of the plastic casing to unwind it.
Rotated the brass bar by keeping the top jaw of the pliers fixed against the plastic casing and pulling the lower jaw upwards towards the top jaw. In other words rotated the bar up towards the floor of the car
Replacing the emissions canister centre pipe and the epb shoe return springs proved to be ridiculously difficult. In the first instance working semi blind I was trying to put the wrong hose on the pipe
For the first set of shoes I assembled and pinned both in place and using wire and a lever I stretched the return spring into place. The amount of force required for this was insane and it took many attempts, lots and lots of cussing and several bruised knuckles to achieve.
For the second set I pinned one shoe in place, angled the second at 90 degrees, connected the return spring to both and pushed the loose shoe over until it was correctly located. This was incredibly fiddly because the spreader had to be held in place while the shoe was being pushed across, whilst every thing was trying to go in different directions at the same time. I used the tail of the tie wrap on the spreader spring to hold on to whilst I levered the shoe into place. Once in place the shoe had to pinned. I tie wrapped the spring clips as tight as possible, this allowed it to be pushed under the head of the pin from a slightly upward position using gentle pressure. Again, the second side took many attempts and even more cussing, less bruising though
Without exaggeration, getting the emission box off and back on and fitting the two pairs of epb shoes took me longer than the rest of the job which included changing front and rear pads & resetting the epb module. WTF
Ok replacing the emissions box was down to me trying to put the wrong sized pipe on but what’s the story with the epb shoes. Is there a special trick to getting the return spring back on? If there is it’d be worth its weight in gold! And definitely worth including the publications.
Any how I now have a fully functional epb and new pads all round and I’m a very happy chappie and all made possible by the kind efforts of Bodsy’s Bible & Disco Mikey
As has been said by others I wouldn’t even have considered doing either if it weren’t for excellent write ups from both these gents. All very much appreciated If we weren't supposed to eat meat why did God make animals taste so good?
Prospeed XRS, traxide, Mitch Hitch, life is good.
20th Nov 2014 8:20 am
beesle
Member Since: 17 Jun 2008
Location: widnes, cheshire
Posts: 117
Right guys, first and foremost I would like to thank everyone that's participated in this thread and bodsy's for his brake bible. Great info
After much messing, I could not unjam the epb module so had to take it out. Took it out which was a massive pain in the bum to say the least. I checked it over, made sure the motor was working by supplying a 12v power supply via a battery. Worked fine. Checked the nylon cogs and not one bit of damage on them which I was really suprised about. Unjammed the brass rod and sealed It back up and in the car it went, again a massive pain in the bum.
Anyway, lubed the braked pads up and adjusted them as per bodsys bible and took it out for a spin. Decided to do the bedding in process which seemed to go well, no issues and epb seems to working perfectly.
My only issue is the Amber brake wearing light is on and I'm getting the message park break fault. Any ideas how to remove the error? I think I may have made this error as I tried to turn the engine on whilst the epb module was removed and the car went nuts, warning lights everywhere. Only
wanted to charge the battery as it had been stood for a while.
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