Thanks Robbie, I am a bit suspicious of that but not sure how to find what it is, if happening. There was a bit of a spark when reconnecting the secondary positive lead to the fusebox next to the battery (with ignition off, naturally). I know that's to be expected - the VW also did it when I put the battery back on that too. I'm keeping tabs on the situation..Make the most of this life, you may not have a Landy or skis in the next one.
2xS3, 1xD1, 3xD2, 2xD3, 2x110, 2x90TDi, 4x90V8, 4x90TD5.
Now: Jetta 2.0 TDi DSG, D3 auto gold.
That's the wife's toyboy.
15th Dec 2012 8:25 am
westderbysi
Member Since: 04 Feb 2012
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 79
Well your stepping up to investigation now which can be a big step but rather than explain how to carry out this I will give you a link to an excellent how to
Watch it and take note of what to do before opening the doors etc
15th Dec 2012 10:50 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I like Eric The Car Guy!
Anyway, some of what he is doing is not appropriate for a D3 (but fine for other cars).
The D3 takes a few minutes to go to sleep but if you disconnect and reconnect the battery through the DMM it will pull quite a few amps waking things up. This may take it beyond the max current of a typical 10 amp DMM (I do not have an amperage value for system start-up, does anyone else?). Also the door sensors for interior lights are built into the locks so nothing handy to clamp to - best to pull a fuse for these and diagnose separately.
The trick is to have the DMM in parallel with the battery with the car asleep before disconnecting the main lead and leaving the the power running through the DMM on its own in series. May save you blowing a DMM fuse and like many I add a lower rating cheap blade fuse to my test leads to offer additional protection when hunting around on troubled electrics - Fluke fuses are expensive!
There are other methods available for a D3 such as a DC amp clamp (more expensive than a regular AC one and not yet a typical DIY tool) or using a battery disconnect terminal to make the whole process dead easy. Others methods from 'back in the day' such as using a test light are not appropriate.
Anyway, a thumbs up for Eric as he has the honesty to leave his mistakes or misdiagnosis in his videos and is happy to take criticism from the masses. Good for him because nobody gets it right all the time, especially anyone working on a D3!Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 04 Feb 2012
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 79
Totally agree with robbie as I said your moving up to another level here all cars are different etc I have the v8 so my start up amp and sleep amps maybe different to the diesel so won't post what mine are hopefully a diesel owner will post them
Eric is a legend and has a lot of great videos well worth a watch and as you say he leaves the pitfalls in too in case you come across them
Good luck take your time and if your not sure. Just do the fuse test until you find the problem that's if you have a problem that is! and if its something like heated seats or something that you can live without ie a system that you don't really need for safety reasons etc leave the fuse out until you can get someone to fix it
Many thanks for the info. We learn by experience but in 48 years worth of vehicles I've never had to do this. (Learn about automechanics and engineering - buy a Disco...!) It was a VERY useful video and the result is that there's a drain of 1.3 amps.. The only thing 'running' is what I take to be the red alarm standby (?) light on the dash.. The car wasn't locked, all doors shut. Car hadn't been started for 6 hours. I noticed it was enough juice to leave a small dimple on the neg terminal when touching it with the probe.. There are no extras on the car like heated seats.
Just found other posts and someone reckons that 0.8amp is too high and should be no more than 0.5, so I'm over. Problem is that in mid-January the car will be left on an airport parking lot for a week and if the battery goes flat in a week I won't get in it. Gotta find it.. It has been left before for a week so it must be a recent issue.
Should I visit my nearest stealer for a fault scan if I can't find the problem?Make the most of this life, you may not have a Landy or skis in the next one.
2xS3, 1xD1, 3xD2, 2xD3, 2x110, 2x90TDi, 4x90V8, 4x90TD5.
Now: Jetta 2.0 TDi DSG, D3 auto gold.
That's the wife's toyboy.
Last edited by EdF on 15th Dec 2012 4:27 pm. Edited 1 time in total
15th Dec 2012 3:56 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18519
I lock it up and check the drain after ~15-20 minutes once everything is properly asleep.
I once did this in a development car and it look 25 minutes for the current to drop once the car was locked 06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
Martin, I'd edited my post just before yours appeared. Don't quite understand your post. You locked the car, then tested the drop - how? Wouldn't opening the bonnet trigger the alarm, how about disconnecting the battery lead with the alarm on.... I guess I'm missing something here..Make the most of this life, you may not have a Landy or skis in the next one.
2xS3, 1xD1, 3xD2, 2xD3, 2x110, 2x90TDi, 4x90V8, 4x90TD5.
Now: Jetta 2.0 TDi DSG, D3 auto gold.
That's the wife's toyboy.
15th Dec 2012 5:06 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18519
I was locked in the car (and long flyleads on ammeter)06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
Ahhhh... Why is it that all my old bangers from the 50's and 60's had ammeters, yet...
Been through all the upper fuses - no joy. As my fuse puller for the glovebox fuseboard has disappeared and I'm not up for advanced acrobatics today, I'll have to leave it..Make the most of this life, you may not have a Landy or skis in the next one.
2xS3, 1xD1, 3xD2, 2xD3, 2x110, 2x90TDi, 4x90V8, 4x90TD5.
Now: Jetta 2.0 TDi DSG, D3 auto gold.
That's the wife's toyboy.
15th Dec 2012 7:02 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20793
Robbie wrote:
This may take it beyond the max current of a typical 10 amp DMM (I do not have an amperage value for system start-up, does anyone else?)
IIRC, its around 15-18Amps when the car is locked, depending on vehicle spec. My DMM goes upto 20A
An acceptable battery drain for a D3 is around 0.02A 0.05A. Any more, and you may have issues with a flat battery on a cold morning.
There are many things that can cause battery drain, most typically, corrupt software in a module someplace, which prevents the car from sleeping fully.
Had an RRS in recently drawing 1.2A which was enough to fully drain the battery over a weekend. Cause was an instrument pack software issue. A quick reflash, and all was well My D3 Build Thread
Mikey, I take it my only real option is my local dealer? My wife is interested in a reflash but I think she has misunderstood. The original battery did die in a little over two days. We could come to Dundee for a day..Make the most of this life, you may not have a Landy or skis in the next one.
2xS3, 1xD1, 3xD2, 2xD3, 2x110, 2x90TDi, 4x90V8, 4x90TD5.
Now: Jetta 2.0 TDi DSG, D3 auto gold.
That's the wife's toyboy.
15th Dec 2012 8:45 pm
blue meanie D3 Decade
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: Newbury
Posts: 6861
I take t there are no suspicious noises like whirring when the ignition is off and locked up?and theeeeennn......???
Errrrm, no.. Would that be an inbuilt stealer cost calculator, which activates when a secret computer detects a juicy fault?Make the most of this life, you may not have a Landy or skis in the next one.
2xS3, 1xD1, 3xD2, 2xD3, 2x110, 2x90TDi, 4x90V8, 4x90TD5.
Now: Jetta 2.0 TDi DSG, D3 auto gold.
That's the wife's toyboy.
15th Dec 2012 11:01 pm
blue meanie D3 Decade
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: Newbury
Posts: 6861
not that I know of but sometimes relays etc can stick closed maybe?and theeeeennn......???
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as I said your moving up to another level here all cars are different etc I have the v8 so my start up amp and sleep amps maybe different to the diesel so won't post what mine are hopefully a diesel owner will post them
(and long flyleads on ammeter)
not that I know of but sometimes relays etc can stick closed maybe?
