Member Since: 13 Jan 2010
Location: Odder
Posts: 28
I would give it a try!
19th Feb 2013 8:25 am
crwoody
Member Since: 09 Mar 2009
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 2109
Found it !! I knew I had one somewhere, (just recently moved house!)
Sorry to throw anyone astray with the earlier comment about the sounder being a piezo device, it's definitely not
These pictures are of a spare RRS dash that I used to nick some bits off ages ago.
The speaker in it's housing measures 20mm deep by 30mm diameter, it goes into a recess in the back housing that's 35mm dia.
It's held on by the three lugs and two soldered connections.
The coil impedance is 56 ohms, I don't suppose that's very critical but it may effect the volume if it is significantly different.
I've not yet managed to source a replacement type, but there's plenty of space around the back of the clocks so an external one could be a possibility.
Clive
19th Feb 2013 10:27 am
mallo
Member Since: 10 Feb 2009
Location: Jersey
Posts: 352
Hi krausei
Thanks for the try it, for £2 it would be worth me giving it a go, but how do you get to the cluster and remove it?
Hi crwoody
Do you think that the speaker in this link:- http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/miniature-speakers/7564595/ would do the trick? or are you saying that I should go for a bigger one with a nearer 56 ohms to the original as most of the ones on the RS site are 8 ohms apart from this one :- http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/miniature-speakers/7166453/# at 50 ohms again its only peanuts.
Is the speaker in the photo only contained in the plastic housing? So if I fitted a smaller one it would fit in the existing housing (with some glue?).
Or one of these:- http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/miniature-speakers/7243100/ it looks like its nearer to what we are trying to replace but again only 8 ohms.
Perhaps Colin could comment?
Best wishes to all
19th Feb 2013 12:35 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
Michael
sent you a PDF files
ps for them prices i,d buy one of each and see whats best
19th Feb 2013 12:55 pm
krausei
Member Since: 13 Jan 2010
Location: Odder
Posts: 28
Mine is 8 ohms and it didn't make a difference, but the closer to the 56 ohms, the better I think.
Cluster removal free from my memory:
Remove panels at each side of the stearing wheel.
Lower and pull towards you the steering wheel as far as possible.
Unscrew 2+2 Torx screws at the bottom of cluster. 2 is holding the cluster.
Withdraw and unplug cluster.
Fittings is reversal.
You Can find the exact procedure in the workshop manual on the Web and I adwise you to read it before starting.
19th Feb 2013 8:39 pm
mallo
Member Since: 10 Feb 2009
Location: Jersey
Posts: 352
Hi krausei
Thanks for the information, I will give it a go, Geoff has been a great help too as usual
I have ordered the three speakers and I will solder some cables to the connectors on the board, and bring the tails out to test the three different speakers, I can the test each one without having to remove the cluster each time. I just hope this is the cause of the problem.
I probably won't get around to tackling this project for a couple of weeks (SWMBO has got me DIYing knocking down walls in the kitchen), however I will let you know how I get on and I will post up the speaker I use for future reference.
Thanks everyone for your help
Best wishes to all
19th Feb 2013 9:56 pm
krausei
Member Since: 13 Jan 2010
Location: Odder
Posts: 28
19th Feb 2013 10:29 pm
Mike_Hammond
Member Since: 09 Mar 2013
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 148
krausei wrote:
Mine is 8 ohms and it didn't make a difference, but the closer to the 56 ohms, the better I think.
Cluster removal free from my memory:
Remove panels at each side of the stearing wheel.
Lower and pull towards you the steering wheel as far as possible.
Unscrew 2+2 Torx screws at the bottom of cluster. 2 is holding the cluster.
Withdraw and unplug cluster.
Fittings is reversal.
You Can find the exact procedure in the workshop manual on the Web and I adwise you to read it before starting.
I just tried a small laptop speaker, its loud but the driver chip gets too hot for comfort. I think the impedance is too low to be honest and I wouldn't recommend using an 8 ohm for fear of burning out the driver ?!
13th Aug 2013 6:27 pm
Mike_Hammond
Member Since: 09 Mar 2013
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 148
Just added a 36 ohm resistor and it's now spot on, driver chip stays cool and volume is about right.... A good reason to keep a stock of old gadgets in the man cave for salvaging parts
13th Aug 2013 7:45 pm
mallo
Member Since: 10 Feb 2009
Location: Jersey
Posts: 352
Hi all
Well I have finally got around to sorting this out, (I know very slack), but I have been very busy.......
It was an easier job than I thought it was going to be, I left the pins from the original speaker attached to the board (I didn't want to damage it), and managed to unsolder the pins off the speaker it was a bit fiddly, I used a solder sucker and then heated up the terminal and with a small screwdriver managed to prise the pin off the soldered area on old speaker.
I then managed to carefully prise the speaker off the board.
I then soldered a couple of wire tails onto the existing pins, and re built/fitted the instrument cluster, and refitted the steering wheel and surrounds.
I ordered a speaker from here:- http://www.visaton.co.uk/index.php?route=p...ct_id=1340
It's a 40mm Diameter, 50ohm speaker arrived in a couple of days, and I soldered a couple of tails onto it, I then chocolate blocked it to the tails coming from the instrument cluster and hey presto the clicking came back.......
Thanks to everyone on the site who has put some input into this problem, special thanks to Geoff. For his advise.... As helpful as always
I would do it again if it was needed, the current speaker is now down in area where the brake switch etc is so if it goes again it's an easy change
Best wishes to all
14th Jan 2014 6:31 pm
rbrailey
Member Since: 20 Jan 2008
Location: Herts
Posts: 22
Connecting new instrument cluster speaker
Having read through this topic I am about to attempt to connect a new instrument cluster speaker as detailed by Mallo back in Jan 2014. So much brilliant info. Thanks to all contributors. Before starting a couple of questions.
1. Should the battery be disconnected before starting
2. Is the soldering of the new connections carried out with the Instrument cluster in/on the car or when it has been removed.
Many Thanks
Richard
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
