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jamesj74
Member Since: 28 Jun 2013
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 89
  
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| Fun and games with the dealer I bought my car off... |
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Dear ##########,
Please can you provide me with a status update on getting a hold of the full service history (as was advertised by yourselves) for the above vehicle. You have been working on getting this for the best part of a month. Every time I ask I’m told you are in the process or getting it. At this point one would have to assume it’s being delivered by an escargatoire of very slow snails, either that or there has been so much work done on this car to keep it on the road that no one can lift the heavy stack of papers to deliver it. Keiran also promised to send on the copies of the receipts from the work that was done by Guy Salmon (on the suspension) and yourselves (on the drive shaft center bearings) so I could at least start a service history of my own, but you have failed in that respect too.
Be aware – I shall not relent from this until I get satisfaction – whatever form that takes. I need the full service history as it was advertised as its absence detracts from the value of the car.
As you should know – I took the vehicle to MAP today to have the air-con repaired (I’m told by Mark at MAP that this is now working) and en route the air suspension fault returned. I really appreciate your efforts to make good on this vehicle on the mechanical side and am assured that it will now be taken back Guy Salmon to have the suspension looked at again, but let me be very clear – the buying experience as a whole thus far has been poor. I need the vehicle back before next Wednesday for a family trip up to Scotland and it needs to be reliably working this time.
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 1st Aug 2013 12:56 pm |
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jamesj74
Member Since: 28 Jun 2013
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 89
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Turns out mine had developed a wiring loom fault. Being fixed under warranty.
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| 6th Aug 2013 12:05 am |
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Wendychriss
Member Since: 13 Aug 2013
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1
 
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| Air compressor problem grrrrr |
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Hi. Can anyone help?? I have a disco 3 2005 and have had the amber warning light on and "normal height only" for about 6 months. It has got progressively worse over the months, at first only came on after driving for a while but then every time i turned car on the warning came on. My husband cleaned the air dryer and silicon beads and all seemed fine for one whole day (woo hoo) but has now started again???? Also how long does the compressor stay on for after starting the car up as it seems to be on constantly?..
Does anyone have any ideas, have had the car for about 2 years and just seems to b one fault after another, such a shame as I over the car but not all the costly problem that we seemed to have had with it....
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| 13th Aug 2013 9:55 pm |
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Malo
Member Since: 03 Jun 2012
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 23
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i did put a post in technical, i have a proble after a recent compressor replacement,
Had the updated compressor fitted recently, all was fine to start with but now the compressor seems to keep running on, it has the later relay, that is not stuck, I can't hear any air leaks and haven't had suspension drop. I am away at the moment so haven't had the chance to get any codes from it, just want to start looking in to it for when I get home. For now I have removed the relay to stop the compressor burning out.
Could this be a fault within the compressor or is there a pressure cut off switch else where?
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| 26th Aug 2013 1:54 pm |
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blue meanie
D3 Decade
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: Newbury
Posts: 6861
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I had a new air storage tank fitted recently on the advice of the dealer that was replacing the compressor as apparently they corrode around the end seams and cause the compressor to run and run. Yours is similar age to mine so might be worth a look? and theeeeennn......???
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| 26th Aug 2013 4:19 pm |
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richkeyte
Member Since: 09 Apr 2014
Location: devon
Posts: 32
 
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Had new compressor fitted in July no problems yet..
Last compressor failed whilst driving off road.
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| 4th Oct 2014 12:42 pm |
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bdruhan
Member Since: 02 Dec 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3
  
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| Suspension Fault Diagnostic Help |
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I have a 2005 LR3 SE with 157,000 miles. I have an air suspension fault that originally had the following codes:
C1A18 Pressure increases too rapid when filling reservoir
C1A27 Compressor circuit - circuit short to ground or open
C1131 Air Spring Air Supply Unable to pressurize gallery
U0416 Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module
C1A20 Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir
C1130 Air spring air supply
After rebuilding the compressor and changing the relay I still had C1A27.
After checking wires and connectors, I took a guess that the reservoir sensor may be bad, so I replaced the reservoir valve block.
I checked the continuity of the wires to the new valve block. I also checked the other wires in more depth. I noted that when the Air Supply Unit (ASU) plugs are in, there is continuity between the wire from pin 7 on C2030 (motor temperature sensor ground) and the wire from pin 17 on C2321 (compressor temperature sensor ground). I figure that makes sense, cause both are grounds. Also, in the other direction, when the compressor is plugged in and I test on the ASU side, there is continuity between pin 5 and 6 on C2320 (exhaust valve negative, and exhaust valve positive). I figure when the compressor is plugged in they just complete a circuit? (I'm not an electrician). I checked the resistance through the exhaust valve and it registers exactly 4 Ohms as it should according to the manual.
So I plugged everything back in and turned on the truck. This time, I received two codes:
C1A36 Exhaust Valve - general electrical failure - intermittent
C1A27 Compressor Circuit - circuit short to ground or open - permanent
Any thoughts on why C1A36 would show up after I replaced the reservoir valve block?
I haven't checked all of the other circuitry because there were no faults to the front or rear sensors or valve blocks. I looked at the front valve block connector and it looked clean. I looked at the three connectors inside the left wheel-well. They look old, but I was afraid to try disconnecting and testing them for fear of breaking wires in the process.
Could there be a short in the compressor even though it runs on the bench when connected to battery. Is there a way to test for that?
Could C1A27 be caused from somewhere else?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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| 2nd Dec 2014 5:49 pm |
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tony bennett
Member Since: 28 Jul 2005
Location: South West
Posts: 565
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I have been getting suspension failures warnings for the last couple of weeks.
I have read up on what others have been doing and cycled through the settings this morning and everything worked as normal.
ie off road height is everything raises in all four corners. access height is everything lowered and normal height the rear raises.
This tells (no nothing ) me that the compressor is working.
It then acts normally until I go around a good bend (like a roundabout). Mostly right handed bends and the light comes back on and the suspension failure warning comes on.
I have had it into a indie dealer who tells me that the computer says I need to replace the compressor.
I have not done the check of the wiring under the nearside inner wheel arch as has been suggested on the forum.
I am thinking, is it actually my compressor that is failing or is it a height sensor as the compressor seems to be working some of the time.
If I pay out for a new compressor is there a chance that the problem will continue or are the height sensors foolproof?
Is changing a height sensor home mech doable ind if it is a sensor how would i confirm this?
Anyone have any experience or suggestions please? regards
tony
05 "Battlestar Galactica"
In 7 years ownership
09/13 New Battery (I did that)
11/13 new alternator. (I did that)
2 x EGR Blanked. (I did that )
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| 4th Dec 2014 8:09 pm |
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nighthawk
Member Since: 24 Jul 2010
Location: Malta
Posts: 1163
 
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You don't say what fault code it is, but from the sound of your indie it's likely to be the now famous C1A20 (Pressure increasing too slowly). When most dealers see that fault they immediately default to "compressor needs to be replaced". It's not a case of the compressor not working. It's just not working good enough. It fills the tank, so all the height changes work normally, but it doesn't fill it fast enough. This might be due to a blocked dryer, an air leak in the tank or pipes, or just a plain old worn out compressor. Blocked dryer is the most common cause and is serviceable, but until you take the compressor apart you will not know if it is just the dryer, or if the compressor is heading south. If you find the dryer's silica powder clogging the filter then it is likely the dryer alone will solve the issue.
The compressor has a thermal cutout at around 130C IIRC. The compressor also has a very low duty cycle, meaning that while it's very powerful, it can't run continuously. It gets hot very quickly and hits the thermal threshld in around 60-90 seconds of running. If the tank is not up to optimal pressure before then, on comes the light and the failure warning. Dennis
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial Manual Buckingham Blue
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| 4th Dec 2014 8:32 pm |
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bdruhan
Member Since: 02 Dec 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3
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Often the simplest explanation is the correct one. Since fault C1A27 states that there is either a short to ground, or an open circuit, it would seem (especially on a circuit that has 3 fuses and a relay) that one of the fuses was causing an open circuit. I checked and rechecked all of the fuses and replaced the relay (twice).
Somehow, however, I missed the F10 fusible link. I replaced that (for $1.83) and I'm operational again.
The C1A36 fault that showed up after replacing the reservoir valve block was probably caused by all of my probing around to check the circuits.
So in the end the rebuilt compressor does work, so thank you to all of the previous posts that explain how to do it.
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| 4th Dec 2014 9:31 pm |
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DiskoStew
Member Since: 15 Apr 2013
Location: Location: Location:
Posts: 650
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Glad you had success bdruhan, it sounds like you put plenty of effort in!  A shapely pair of legs is one thing but a nice bum is not to be sniffed at.
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Cubby fridge - tick
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Colour coded wheel arches - tick
Bearmach side steps - tick
Handcrafted spare wheel protector - tick
EGR's blanked - tick
RRS grille mod - tick
E-Prance dash-cam - tick
HIDS4U Xenon upgrades - tick
LEDs all round - tick
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Pimp tint - tick
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| 4th Dec 2014 9:46 pm |
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tony bennett
Member Since: 28 Jul 2005
Location: South West
Posts: 565
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nighthawk wrote:You don't say what fault code it is, but from the sound of your indie it's likely to be the now famous C1A20 (Pressure increasing too slowly). When most dealers see that fault they immediately default to "compressor needs to be replaced". It's not a case of the compressor not working. It's just not working good enough. It fills the tank, so all the height changes work normally, but it doesn't fill it fast enough. This might be due to a blocked dryer, an air leak in the tank or pipes, or just a plain old worn out compressor. Blocked dryer is the most common cause and is serviceable, but until you take the compressor apart you will not know if it is just the dryer, or if the compressor is heading south. If you find the dryer's silica powder clogging the filter then it is likely the dryer alone will solve the issue.
The compressor has a thermal cutout at around 130C IIRC. The compressor also has a very low duty cycle, meaning that while it's very powerful, it can't run continuously. It gets hot very quickly and hits the thermal threshld in around 60-90 seconds of running. If the tank is not up to optimal pressure before then, on comes the light and the failure warning.
Thanks Dennis,
Currently I am working with very little free time so I suppose it will be quicker to just buy an exchange/new unit and swap over doing it myself.
I will have to read up in my haynes manual.
Do we have a supplier member that sells these or is it only available from Land Rover or some other 3rd party supplier.
ANyone with suggestions please? regards
tony
05 "Battlestar Galactica"
In 7 years ownership
09/13 New Battery (I did that)
11/13 new alternator. (I did that)
2 x EGR Blanked. (I did that )
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| 6th Dec 2014 11:27 am |
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Ollram
Member Since: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Gortynia
Posts: 608
 
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Hi
Lately, after 1-2 km of driving im getting  as well the same EAS fault (scanned with my IID toll)
C1A20-64 (2C)
At the same time (same Km) i see registered the following faults:
1) 1/1 U0132-87 : Lost Communication with ride level control module
2) 1/4 B1B74-00 (6C): Front foot - defrost mode stepper actuator
3) 1/1 B1D21-13 Remote control switch
there is also other fault for which im not sure whether it appears at the same time as the above:
1/2 U0102 - 87 (2C) Lost Communication with transfer ase control module
are all the above indicate improper operation of the Hitachi Compressor (failed compressor)??
Im asking before i'll order the complete repair kit for the compressor........ or i might look smth else as well????
THNX A LOT
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| 7th Dec 2014 4:56 pm |
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bdruhan
Member Since: 02 Dec 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3
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Ollram,
You might check your battery first. I'm not an expert, but I've been pouring over these forum posts for a couple of months with regards to my air compressor. One thing I've noticed is that when people have several faults at once that don't seem directly related, the battery is the first thing to check.
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| 8th Dec 2014 5:48 pm |
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