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Ceekay
Member Since: 17 May 2009
Location: Bury
Posts: 2057
  
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Yep basically could do with knowing the same as Arhrrs but on the disco 3? I know its prob basic to alot of you guys but im fine with wiring but have never removed any of the LR panels before. Aparently mine is on its way from danhag so would be good to know in advance which panels need removing and how? Pics would be great if anyone has any im sure ive come across 1 or 2 before on here i think?
Cheers Ceekay D4 HSE Lux MY16 Club Waitomo
D3 HSE MY06 missing her still…
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 4th Jan 2011 11:51 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6271
  
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Your loom looks the same as mine so you just need to follow what we have posted on here.
Flack 
te wrote:Received the goods this afternoon. I've been following the discussion and the plot thickens...  It seems that there are different versions of the cable harness around. Took a couple of pictures of the one I received with the package. Please check my gallery... If I read the posts correctly, the loose orange wire should be connected with the red/white one.
Last edited by Flack on 5th Jan 2011 3:57 am. Edited 1 time in total
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| 4th Jan 2011 11:59 pm |
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dick dastardly
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: wiggleigh bottom
Posts: 1112
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when the fbh is talked to with the wbus protocol the fbh will only be partly controlled i.e. fuel pump will not be working and the fbh works until the fuel reservoir is exhausted.
The D3 has a Thermo Top V fbh and can be talked to in a "TTV Zuheizer" protocol (extended wbus) whereby fuel pump is also activated. if you guys have ordered the gsm pro version and i think you have, then you can configure the gsm pro unit to talk ttv extensions (in sms config, property 30=4)
i bought the gsm cheap version because i already have a wbus converter. i configured property 30= 1 (+12V) and feed the yellow output wire into the converter switch (black) input. the converter wbus output then goes to pin 2 on the fbh. the converter is configured via dip switch 5 (on) to talk ttv extensions. i can configure the heater to work as long as i want (i hear the fuel pump clicking regularly)
i also had connector trouble. the largest connector on separation from the control unit allowed its pins to get ever so slightly bent (couldnt visibly see it) resulting in a bad connection on reassembly and flashing hazard lights. bending the pins slightly more gave a good connection again. cheap chinese connectors probably in an expensive hi tech vehicle. the cause of numerous gremlins perhaps. There's one wheel on my wagon, but i'm still rollin' along, it's the cherokee, they're after me, but I'm singing a happy song
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| 5th Jan 2011 12:00 am |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6271
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Ok Chaps Fully Working 
After connecting the orange wire to a seperate switched live the FBH now shuts down in the correct way, not sure what the red & white wire is connected to in the loom but I have just left it connected and all is fine.
Test 1
Dialed up FBH at 00:30, at 00:40 on the dot the fans kicked in the temp was warm as the time went on it got warmer and by the 30 min mark was nice and warm.
I let it run for set time of 40 mins, at 40 mins the FBH shut down in a normal shut down way and the fans stopped.
Left it to cool for a while and started the engine just to top the fuel res up.
Test 2
Started FBH waited till the fans started then I turned the ignition switch on and the FBH then shut down in the correct way.
Test 3
After the shut down did the test on the HVAC as suggested by Wiggs and this passed the test ok with no warnings on the Prog button.
Test 4
Put my Faultmate on the car and checked for errors on the system and all was clear.
So to conclude the flashing prog switch is the car resetting the HVAC positions to where they was before the FBH was run from the GSM, this all seems normal as confirmed by the test and the checks done with the Faultmate.
One thing I did notice was if I rang the GSM unit when I was sat in the car it failed to work, it would change the blinking led from blinking green to full green, but in a couple of seconds it went red and the only way to reset was to unlpug the GSM unit and re-insert the plug to get the flashing green led again.
It does not like your mobile to near the GSM unit, because if I moved away from the car, only about 10 feet it works everytime without fail.
It has all been worth the effort as the car is nice and toasty now, but a bit of a let down by the lack of support from Danhag and what looks like a faulty wireing harness, but that aside the instructions are for that cable and they don't mention the orange wire its only mentioned in the manual.
So you guys that are going to fit them just ask on here as by now there are plenty of us willing to help after this slog...thanks to all of you and Martin for this excellent site....
Flack
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| 5th Jan 2011 2:31 am |
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Sturge
Member Since: 02 Nov 2005
Location: West Chiltington, West Sussex
Posts: 872
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Well done - brilliant work . Thanks  TDV6 HSE Lux (2014MY)
TDV6 HSE (2006MY - owned for 9 years and 150,000! - now replaced)
Mini Cooper SD 5 door
TVR Chimaera 450
Series II 1960 Diesel
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| 5th Jan 2011 8:55 am |
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TwelveSticks
Member Since: 16 Jan 2010
Location: Dublin
Posts: 798
 
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Brilliant stuff Flack (and you other brave trail-blazers). Still haven't actually got mine, but once it arrives I will at least feel I have a chance now!
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| 5th Jan 2011 9:51 am |
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01coccobet
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: on air
Posts: 2624
 
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figuring it out!!!!
the best feeling:getting airborne.
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| 5th Jan 2011 10:11 am |
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Martin
Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18506
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Great work Flack, perseverance pays off 8) 06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
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| 5th Jan 2011 10:41 am |
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Ceekay
Member Since: 17 May 2009
Location: Bury
Posts: 2057
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Nice one flack. You and the other pioneers have made it alot easier for the rest of us when the units finally arive. Suppose with the not being able to activate the gsm from within the vehicle you could fit the switch mentioned in earlier posts to the unused wire mentioned? Anyway great posts guys!
Thanks Ceekay D4 HSE Lux MY16 Club Waitomo
D3 HSE MY06 missing her still…
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| 5th Jan 2011 11:11 am |
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Very Annoyed
Member Since: 19 Nov 2005
Location: Up there, past the strange people and the sheep.
Posts: 3698
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Makes the fitting so much easier for me  - I never cease to be amazed at what knowledge there is on this forum. Keep up the good work. Loving the power of the TDV8!
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| 5th Jan 2011 11:56 am |
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flydive
Member Since: 21 Aug 2007
Location: Lugano
Posts: 1535
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Ok, I also have to report full success.
Now my FBH seems to run the programmed time, the blowers work, when I switch the ignition on the FBH stops(Danhag will post something about this within a couple of hours)
While I was at it I also pulled the green wire to the dash, so is ready if I decide to install an instant switch.
@ARHRRS
I will open a thread in the RRS site with the install info. Here it is
http://rrsport.co.uk/forum/post284849.html#284849
.
Last edited by flydive on 5th Jan 2011 3:14 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 5th Jan 2011 2:16 pm |
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Ceekay
Member Since: 17 May 2009
Location: Bury
Posts: 2057
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Nice one Flydive
Thanks in advance for all your hard work. Dont know how I managed before I discovered this site. Cant wait to get it running.
Thanks again guys D4 HSE Lux MY16 Club Waitomo
D3 HSE MY06 missing her still…
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| 5th Jan 2011 2:21 pm |
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geirstein
Member Since: 25 Feb 2008
Location: Oppdal
Posts: 36
 
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Seems like the table is set now for the amateur-mechanics to do the installation. The great work and all the sheared experiences from all the pioneers is much appreciated (me beeing one of the amateurs)  .
Still awaiting the shipment, but feel confident that it should be possible to get the installation done before the winter has passed.
Best regards, Geir 
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| 5th Jan 2011 2:47 pm |
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danhag
Member Since: 27 Nov 2010
Location: berlin
Posts: 19
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Hello,
as it seems, there are a lot of open questions about the installation of the GSM-Remote control and the heater-blower-control-box. So i summarised the answers to the most important questions a couple of days before (see page 11).
The cable-harness is manufactured by "cartronic" so i was not aware of any problems regarding the harness.
I was just informed by "cartronic" that the orange wire is not connected to the white/red wire for the following reason:
When the heater is running and than switched off, it will follow a certain "cool-down" phase.
If the heater is activated again before it has completed the shut-down, it could generate an error entry.
This could happen when the heater is switched on by phone, switches of by turning on the ignition and switches on by the motor-electronics again.
However, you can connect the orange wire to ignition if you want the heater to be turned off. In any case, the white/red wire must be connected to ignition, as it controls the airflaps.
daniel
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| 5th Jan 2011 3:11 pm |
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