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john watson
Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: lanark
Posts: 968
  
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Seems I posted this reply in the wrong topic. Apologies
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 12th Oct 2016 6:16 am |
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Disco3fan
Member Since: 20 Nov 2016
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 1
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Dear All, I have brought a discovery 3 SE and the rev counter has stopped working. Can anyone help me please. It's a 55 reg
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| 20th Nov 2016 2:50 pm |
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kels83
Member Since: 26 Aug 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 13
  
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I was having the same problems described in this thread and think I finally found a solution. After about a month of research I think some people have slightly different faults and symptoms because of different versions of control module software on the various components. I'm fed up with the stealer so I took my lr3 to an independent shop that is certified for land rover, bently, aston, mazeratti, etc. I very good shop. The mechanic said that if any module on the CANBUS network (high speed) goes down, it can take all or part of this network down. This includes the brakes, suspension, transmission, isntrument panel, transfer case, parking brake, and many others. This is why there are so many faults going off, every component that uses the CANBUS could be affected.
Simple fixes in order of expense:
1. As everyone else says, start with the battery. It should read 11.9-12.3 volts when off and 12-14.5 volts while running. If a CANBUS module doesn't have enough power, it may not function.
2. The instrument panel is on this CANBUS too, so give it a wiggle to see if it sends an error. I read that some people had loose cables in the back.
3. The brake switch affects the CANBUS, the plug has a dark red wire that is the power. This should read just about the same as your battery 11.9-12.3 volts when the engine is off. If yours is very low, there is a common problem where the wire is spliced in the floorboard of the right footwell. If it ever got wet, it could have corroded. It takes a while to pull out all the plastic trim, but some new wire, solder, and heat shrink are a cheap fix. But if the brake switch is getting good volts, don't bother with checking this wire, its probably not the problem. Mine had some light corrosion so I soldered and head shrinked it, but it wasn't the source of my problem even with corrosion.
4. While you've got the kick plate off for the brake switch, check the steering angle sensor (SAS). The SAS is a yellowish brown collar on the steering shaft on the inside of the firewall just before a U-joint. It's directly above the brake pedal. This collar should should turn when you turn the steering wheel, there shouldn't be any slipping. Some people say their SAS slipped, which causes chaos for several powertrain modules on the CANBUS, which causes brake and suspension faults. If you have Navigation, you can switch to the 4x4 and the front tires in that picture should exactly match the direction of your steering wheel as you turn it about. If this angle is off, the inner ring on the SAS can be replaced by unbolding the u-joint and slipping a new one on in about an hour. Land rover manual says to remove the entire dash, 6+hours. I'm sure they enjoy billing their customers all that time. Some people have also glued the inner SAS ring back in place. Unfortunately a slipped or replaced SAS needs to be recalibrated before the errors go away. If you have a programming tool like the IIDtool or fault mate, you just saved some money. Otherwise, a trip to the dealer is needed.
5. Some people have had water leak into their batter compartment and spoil the Transfer Case Control Module. It's directly behind the battery and should take about 30 min to visually inspect. The plugs, pins, and cables should not have any corrosion or the module is probably bad. This ended up being my problem and it started during a rain, which should have been a clue. When I pulled the TCCM out there was green corrosion on the plug pins. Unfortunately, this module needs to be calibrated as well, which is why I sprung for an IIDtool to do all the calibrations. I got a used TCCM and configured it, back up and running in about 30 minutes. Such a relief after 2 months of limping around!
If none of these are your problem, my best guess is that it is another module failure on the high speed CANBUS. When researching I heard from others that the symptoms in this thread can also be due to errors with the YAW sensor, transmission control module, parking assist module, instrument cluster, or others. The stealers apparently have a "network integrity test" on their diagnostic software that isolates each module on the CANBUS to pinpoint if any are causing havoc. I wasn't able to find any consumer grade diagnostic tool with this feature, which is why I went into the specialist shop that works on Bentleys. They ID'd the TCCM and when I replaced it the consistent errors have disappeared for now.
Through this process I bought an IIDtool to recalibrate modules. I get this problem and can't fix it with the inspections listed above I will 1) take it into the dealer for a network scan and 2) buy a used replacement module on ebay, and 3) configure and flash the new module using the IIDtool. Note to furutre self... remember to actually do this before wasting as much time as I did this go around!
I hope this helps somebody, good luck! [/list]
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| 27th Jan 2017 5:08 pm |
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roastbeef
Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: South West France
Posts: 49
 
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| Transmission fault / multiple warning .....sticky solonoids |
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I have owned this car from new (13yrs now) and this problem occurs now and then, even just a couple of years into its life.
When you turn on the ignition the car does a system check, and if all is not well it throws up a fault on the dash.
Transmission fault also means hdc fault, special programs off, terrain response off etc etc. Indeed it seems like multiple failure when it can be just a sticky solonoid.
On the auto box there are two solonoids on the transfer case/ gearbox one for gear selection and one for high/low range, you can see them clearly when you crawl under.
Tap them with a hammer, and disconnect /reconnect the electrical connections and this usually fixes the problem.
Hope this helps someone
Phil
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| 28th Jan 2017 10:34 pm |
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Prezes
Member Since: 22 Mar 2017
Location: South Humberside
Posts: 2
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| Disco 3 electrical faults |
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Hi all
I need some help with my Disco3 07 few weeks ago on the dash start coming on the 3 faults :
Washer fluid low + passenger seat belt + engine oil pressure.
All 3 comes on and off at the same time.
Washer fluid it's top up + no one seat on the passenger seat + I have check engine oil pressure and it's right.
It was play for few minutes on beginning but now it stay for couple hours.
Any one has similar problem? Please.
Prezes.
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| 22nd Mar 2017 9:23 am |
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tj-disco
Member Since: 12 Oct 2016
Location: Tunbridge Wells
Posts: 26
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I had every week or two these mutilple messages
A new transfer case Ecu has cured all issues
Wasn't to expensive a fix either
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| 10th May 2017 12:24 pm |
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piepeasnmintsauce
Member Since: 26 May 2017
Location: The Rhubarb triangle
Posts: 22
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@kels83 I think I'd just about reached the same conclusion but the network scan is useful to know. Will do the remainder of the basics and check the ECU behind the battery, then get it down to LR for the scan/daylight robbery.
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| 26th May 2017 10:00 am |
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Nick Galatanu
Member Since: 18 May 2018
Location: Romford
Posts: 1
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Hi guis i have a disco 3 and his playing with loads of faults like hdc fault brake fault blinker on stereo shut down . Been on garage and said its cluster prob and need to change for 1000 £ please help
Regards Nick
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| 18th May 2018 4:47 am |
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inspector71
Member Since: 21 Oct 2010
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 16
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Nothing religious ...
Like so many others, corrosion has been found in my TCM and looking the most likely culprit for the usual associated fault indicators (Transmission, Park Brake, Special Programs Off) and limp-home mode.
My excellent guys at Bolney Grange Garage are now investigating repair (through a specialist, BBA Reman).
But if this isn't possible, can I ask for confirmation of kels83's post of 27 Jan 2017 that it's possible to re-code a salvaged/re-conditioned unit, assuming I can find one, using an IID tool? I don't have an IID tool myself so they're still a bit of a mystery to me but my garage uses a Snap-On diagnostic/code tool.
Just trying to ensure I don't end up pushed into main stealer territory because the TCM can't be re-coded at all or only by them.
Thanks
Graham
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| 12th Jan 2019 10:43 am |
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inspector71
Member Since: 21 Oct 2010
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 16
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| Confirmations please! ... I'm reassuring myself somewhat |
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Just found a post by Jono (kernol, posted 28 June 2010, in the thread Transfer Case control module ... cooked by car wash) that indicates his FaultMate MV-2 can re-programme a TCM if needed but better still records that others, including Grand Master Wiggs, have advised that no programming required.
Just hope it is (the only item) responsible for my problems and that I can find one at a reasonable cost. Ebay here I come ... unless someone knows better? Come on, of course you do!
Cheers
Graham
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| 12th Jan 2019 6:10 pm |
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inspector71
Member Since: 21 Oct 2010
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 16
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Shouldn't be so slapdash.  Apologies all
That same thread goes on to record that dealer programming IS required.
Back to the main stealers then ...
Shucks
Graham
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| 12th Jan 2019 6:14 pm |
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20feetunder
Member Since: 13 Nov 2016
Location: Alps
Posts: 1
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Hi... I have a host of faults displayed:
Park brake fault. Transmission limited gears available. HDC. Special programs unavailable. Gear selector showing 'E'.
Car was stuck in park, accessed the release switch under the gear selector to get the short distance back home and there was no power. Sounded like clutch slip although this is auto box and had to reverse up my steepish drive to get it outside the house, as it would not go up forwards.
Having investigated the suggestions on this topic have ordered a brake switch as a start...
However the reversing lights are out, bulbs and fuse are ok...any suggestions please re rev.lights...
Having worked through many previous issues with the help of this forum am desperate for suggestions as have little option but to crack on myself in rural France.
Nic
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| 20th Mar 2019 11:08 pm |
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Wigham
Member Since: 19 Apr 2015
Location: Quillan
Posts: 49
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| Christmas tree lights and no ignition |
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Changed the brake light switch, put in a new battery....no good.
Reseated the electrical connector on the electronic park brake module, result! Everything works as it should.......another €200 learning curve.....
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| 27th Apr 2019 11:10 am |
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Andy63
Member Since: 13 Jul 2019
Location: Chester
Posts: 1
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| Where do I start.. or not as the case might be ... |
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Morning and hello from a newbie
We have a disco 3 TDV6 GS manual ( no laughing at the back ).
It’s turning into a money pit ... and now become unreliable with electrical issues.
Where do I start..
We had some alarm issues, randomly going off ... this then led to our latest pleasure.. non starting
Unlock car ... put key in ignition and car locks and no ignition lights..... if we get past this, and manage to start .. few miles up the road .. doors start locking unlocking .. dash goes blank ( centre panel ) and hazard warning lights come on ( no display of this in car ... just lots of people flashing me ) .
It’s been to a man who knows electrical stuff on these ... he cleared faults ( sorry don’t know which ones ) but driving back last night, after 5 miles all started again ... hazards on and no dash ... and today .. no start.
Now I’m not into these things ... I understand motorbikes...
So question is .... who do I take it 2 near Chester ... to get it fixed without main dealer prices ?
Appreciate any help and I don’t mind a little p..s taking
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| 13th Jul 2019 8:06 am |
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Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
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It sounds like you need to get your battery and alternator output checked.
You're describing faults that imply either or both may be defective. Stick a multi meter across the battery and see what voltage you have. Start the car and check if the multi meter reading changes.
You should have ( at least ) 12.5v at standstill and around 15v at initial start up, dropping to around 13.8v after a short while. 
If you discover your alternator is failing DO NOT install a new battery until you've replaced the alternator for a Denso variant. Dying alternators have been known to kill perfectly good + often brand new batteries due to a dead short so you have been warned. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
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| 13th Jul 2019 8:48 am |
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