Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
Pins in then rotate pump until the mark lines up with the locked cam pulley yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
23rd Jan 2021 6:51 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8225
Is that just the cam pins?- I have had the engine running after fitting the new cam and auxiliary belts:bow:It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
23rd Jan 2021 8:20 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
Yes you only need to do the cam pins.
23rd Jan 2021 10:15 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8225
It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
24th Jan 2021 5:40 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8225
OK, having slept on the situation if both front belts have been changed with the pins in place, the engine has been run for a few seconds to check everything is ok so far, this means the cam shafts are correct, so if the left cam timing mark is brought to the top on the pump drive sprocket end, the pump belt is fitted with the timing marks on both pump drive sprockets lined up with the timing marks on the belt it has got to be correct?It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
24th Jan 2021 11:59 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
Yes all correct.
If the front belt is timed correctly and the marks line up on the rear belt you have done it correctly.
The fact that it started proves you have done the front belt correctly, just put it back together and give it a good test run.
24th Jan 2021 12:03 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8225
It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
24th Jan 2021 12:04 pm
Drakx
Member Since: 21 Jan 2021
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 48
Hi which is the correct hole for the timing pin on the fly wheel? I seem to have two on the flywheel. My D3 is a manual. The cam pins look to be correctly aligned as when I try to move the crank, I cannot move it.
I’ve included a picture of each.
Thanks.
26th Jan 2021 7:29 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
The timing tools (size) differs for auto and manual.... so you” just” need to have the correct tool and you can easily find the right hole.... must be 100 straight fit and you have the right one..Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
26th Jan 2021 9:27 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
There isnt a choice !
If the timing has not been disturbed and cams are locked correctly, the hole which appears in the aperture is the correct one!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
26th Jan 2021 9:57 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8225
It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
27th Jan 2021 7:33 am
Drakx
Member Since: 21 Jan 2021
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 48
Thank you for the reply’s.
27th Jan 2021 8:17 am
916pilot
Member Since: 07 Oct 2019
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 16
Hi all, I have been following Disco Mikey's excellent write up to replace the rear fuel pump belt. I have got to the point of removing the tensioner pulley bolt but I'm not sure that I will be able to to get the new one in with my fat fingers. Has anyone got any tips as I'm more than a little concerned!
Many thanks Paul
31st Jan 2021 6:17 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Don’t blame you.
Difficult to get it back in without cross threading.
You could inspect the belt with a mirror and leave it if it looks ok. ( no cracks or craze)
31st Jan 2021 6:30 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8225
Having just come back from there I think I’m qualified to answer your question I love saying this without fear of contradiction “a D3 is easy compared to a D4”, I felt exactly the same to the degree I was about to give up.
If you have taken everything out of the way yes you can, I take xxl gloves and I did it, not easy I admit, undo the tension pulley bolt, the belt will go slack right at the end so no tension to flirt it out of reach, keep the bolt in the pulley by turning the pulley horizontal bolt head up, remove the belt, I spent literally hours trying to get the belt back on with the D4 timing marks in the correct position, you don’t have this problem with a a D3.
Put the new tension pulley on with the bolt as loose as possible you will feel the pulley slot into the locating holes at about 5 o’clock (2 threads), put the belt on the drive pulley, check it in the bottom of the pulley teeth then over the top of the pump pulley, tighten the pulley bolt finger tight and check the belt is sat in the teeth of both pulleys, tighten the pulley bolt, you can’t get a torque wrench in so tighten as much as you can with a 1/4 drive ratchet spanner, hardest part pull the pin out of the new tensioner.
Tip; tie your spanner’s together in pairs with a length of string, anything you drop you will not retrieve,
Put an old bag, blanket under the fan/radiator to catch runaway studs, nuts etc. Do not over tighten the cam belt tensioner 24NM, cam idler pulleys 46NM.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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I love saying this without fear of contradiction “a D3 is easy compared to a D4”, I felt exactly the same to the degree I was about to give up.
