Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
tanloverluke wrote:
dutchviking wrote:
Hi. Not to worry. In line with what Disco Mikey just wrote you do need to lock the crankshaft by removing the startmotor. Lock the camshafts, the pins should be properly inserted. When both camshafts are locked and with start motor removed the crankshaft locking pin should be placed in the first timing hole (there are several). Then install the belt and tensioner, put the belt on to the right cam wheel and while keeping its notches pressed into the cam sprockets turn the right cam wheel Counter Clock Wise. Then turn the left cam wheel fully clock wise (as far as the pin let you) and apply the timing belt onto the left cam wheel sprockets. While holding the belt turn the cam wheel CCW and guide the belt over the tensioning wheel. In this way you remove unwanted slack from the belt. Now fasten the tensioner so the arrow is well into its window. Now fasten the cam wheel bolts, remove cam pins and crankshaft locking pin and turn the belt 2 full turns and place 3 locking pins. When these fit you are good to go.
Thanks dutchviking! I started with placing the belt on the crank, then going anti-clockwise. Just a thought, if my cams are the source of the problem, how do I ensure that they are correctly re-timed (or re-synced) to the crank? At the moment I'm assuming that as my crankshaft didn't move, instead it was the cam(s). Thx
Assuming that's the case, you should be able to put the crank back to its marks, and the cam pulleys should align again My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 23 Jun 2014
Location: cork
Posts: 73
Hi guys, on the same thread, how to we fill the coolant after having the timing belt done and make sure there is no air in the system ? There r 2 bleed plastic black valves, one at the top of the engine and one on the coolant tank. Is it just about filling the tank and opening those valves ? Cheers !
30th Oct 2016 8:34 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10679
I was able to slowly fill and leave the cap off/loose, started the car and it sorted itself.
I wouldn't touch the tank bleed as they are known for leaking afterwards
Last edited by Pete K on 30th Oct 2016 9:54 am. Edited 1 time in total
Thanks dutchviking! I started with placing the belt on the crank, then going anti-clockwise. Just a thought, if my cams are the source of the problem, how do I ensure that they are correctly re-timed (or re-synced) to the crank? At the moment I'm assuming that as my crankshaft didn't move, instead it was the cam(s). Thx
If I am understanding your post right, then why are you doing it this way to take the slack out of the belt??. The two cam wheel pulleys have bolts on that you slacken off, this allows you to move the pulleys on the slotted holes.
The correct way to put the belt on is to start at the crank working anti clockwise, then through the idler wheel then to the passenger side cam puley, make sure the pulley is fully clockwise then slip on the belt whilst keeping it under tension while you do the same with the other idler ulley and cam shaft pulley, this brings all the slack to the tensioner, just make sure to tighten the cam pulley bolts up after.
Flack
30th Oct 2016 9:51 am
derryfrombury
Member Since: 01 Sep 2014
Location: Bury St Edmunds
Posts: 212
As always Mikey, excellent write up and supporting images.Joined Aug 2014. Disco 3 SE 54plate, Buckingham Blue, Cream leather.
Defender 90 200Tdi (weekend toy)
TinTent - Coachman Pastiche 535/4
Supercharged Autobiography Grille
Tera-Firma black silicone intercooler/turbo hoses fitted Sep2014
Forum stickers, silver on rear, Orange in place of RFL disc
30th Oct 2016 10:42 am
kikos
Member Since: 23 Jun 2014
Location: cork
Posts: 73
thanks Pete regarding the coolant...
30th Oct 2016 11:45 am
tanloverluke
Member Since: 28 Jun 2013
Location: Honiton
Posts: 12
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Assuming that's the case, you should be able to put the crank back to its marks, and the cam pulleys should align again
Hi Mikey I am finally back in the UK and ready for revive my poor RRS. Am I able to rotate the crank in the opposite direction (i.e. anti-clockwise when facing the engine) in order to put it back to its marks? I'll embark on this project tomorrow morning, weather permitting.
Just to make sure that I am doing it correctly, when facing the engine, it is clockwise that I should be attempting to turn over the engine once having changed the belt?
Thx
11th Dec 2016 3:19 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10679
I didn't think I would see the day when powerful would do a video of how to change the cambelt, but the days here!
Changing the Aux belt
&t=0s
Getting to the cambelt
&t=0s
more to come soon...
It's great someone's done a step by step video.
Just cover the turbo inlet pipe to prevent anything being dropped down there.
10th Apr 2017 7:12 pm
moorman
Member Since: 05 Jul 2009
Location: East Anglia
Posts: 276
In the process of changing belts on my 2008 with 50,000miles on the clock (yep know its late on time but difficult finding the time). Was prepared to change the oil pump as well but found I have the pump with the webs on. Had already got the starter motor off when I found the oil pump was ok and with both pins in the cams the flywheel pin would not engage (even after lots of fettling to the tool to fit through the large hole). I removed the belt and had to wiggle the crank quite a lot to accept the locating tool. Bit surprised to find that the Dayco belt kit didn't have new bolts for the idlers and tensioner they only include a new bolt for the pump belt tensioner.
Do others use new bolts?
19th Apr 2017 3:45 pm
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
Pete K wrote:
I didn't think I would see the day when powerful would do a video of how to change the cambelt, but the days here!
Changing the Aux belt
&t=0s
Getting to the cambelt
&t=0s
more to come soon...
It's great someone's done a step by step video.
Just cover the turbo inlet pipe to prevent anything being dropped down there.
We just need video part 3 and 4 !!!
Can anyone share photos of how the crank shaft is locked and if the oil pump is replaced, how the flywheel is pinned.
I'm going to attempt this in the next few months.
I can buy the timing lockout pin sets on eBay for au$40
Or 23 pounds.
26th Apr 2017 2:27 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10679
You remove the starter motor.
And the tool goes in there, once you have filled the tool down to size!
26th Apr 2017 11:08 am
Disgoeshere
Member Since: 06 Dec 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 278
Belt removal
And now an interesting part 3
Andy
07MY (8A) D3 2.7 TDV6 Manual SE
New oil pump, water pump, cam belt - DM
New prop, new clutch TVLR,Beanie Grille,Black & Silver Badges
All Filters, oil change,clock on dash,4x4 info,RLD Protector,silicone hoses
Front and Rear TRW low Dust dtec V8 brake upgrade,new oil sump
5th May 2017 9:09 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
Member Since: 06 Dec 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 278
Yes Mike, but in fairness they do say that on all the videos they make more or less some interesting video for those prepared to DIY really.
I am so glad you did mine though (Alva job mike) well done. Andy
07MY (8A) D3 2.7 TDV6 Manual SE
New oil pump, water pump, cam belt - DM
New prop, new clutch TVLR,Beanie Grille,Black & Silver Badges
All Filters, oil change,clock on dash,4x4 info,RLD Protector,silicone hoses
Front and Rear TRW low Dust dtec V8 brake upgrade,new oil sump
5th May 2017 10:06 pm
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
Re: Belt removal
Disgoeshere wrote:
And now an interesting part 3
They nearly f??k@d it up by forgetting to tighten the 3 cam shaft bolts, LOL
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