Member Since: 16 Feb 2013
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 384
Went to car this morning (to work on a dragging o/s/r brake problem), and got a host of HDC, transmission and park brake faults and an E in the gear selection. IID tool out and it seems like everything is wrong, matbe 20 faults. Cleared the faults and scanned again. Now it just seems like a host of communication issues on about 5 ECU's. Read some forum threads, checked Fuse 30. Changed it and blew a 10A, read about trying a 15A, blew again with smoke from undereath.
At this point I am just thinking this is not going to be cheap. Back in the house, cup of tea, read a few more threads and posts, came across this one and what a relief! Capacitor!
Disconnected it, new 10A fuse in position 30 and starts no problem.
Is it just me or are LR culpable for bringing a car to market with so many recurring issues? Really......., a radio interference capacitor can down a £40 grand car????
Anyway massive kudos to those who went before me on this thread, you saved yet another Land Rover driver from another Basil Fawlty tree branch moment
Back to fixing the massive recurring cluster&%& that is the Discovery 3 rear brakes .....
11th May 2014 7:41 pm
jc_uk
Member Since: 19 Apr 2007
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 315
Glad to be of service.
My dealer offered £100 refund after I explained my side of this.
May still take it to small claims court for full refund.
Still cost me £170 for a repair which I feel should have been covered on the extended warranty.
Are you going to fit a new capacitor or leave it as is?
Do you get any interference on the radio?
LR is as best I can determine, a world leader in vehicle systems integration - that is the best excuse I can come up with for why a minor failure in one system cascades to major failure of another system.
I figure this is best illustrated with the armoured 3 where the best way to bring it to an unintended halt is to break a tail light bulb. The tie in of the braking systems thru the two sets of contacts within the brake light switch can shut down the propulsion systems; ergo, no go.
In the same vein, while you are replacing the radio noise capacitor, there is a second one called the ignition noise capacitor.
This radio noise capacitor is not to be confused with part number LR004160, the ignition noise capacitor which is located under the black plastic engine cover on the right hand side above the air intake towards the rear of the engine.
The ignition capacitor is held on with a single 8mm bolt and a three wire electrical connector. Replacing the ignition capacitor as a routine maintenance prevention action at 100,000 miles, 160,000 km), has merit. It is a do it yourself kind of thing and easier to get at than the radio capacitor that is located underneath.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
11th May 2014 8:16 pm
Harry Flatters
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 16
Hi. I'm experiencing similar HDC / Parking Brake/ Limp Mode problems with my 2009 D3 & I've also noticed that I've now got a Headlight bulb out. If this is related, why would i have to by Genuine land rover bulbs aposed to an H7 buld of the same watt and voltage from Halfotrds?
Regards harry
The best reason for purchasing genuine is that hopefully, the bulb meets Land Rover specifications.
In this case, Land Rover specifications also means specifications similar to those of a recognized manufacturer. The odds are better that a bulb sourced from Land Rover may not be far east sourced.
The reason on spec matters is that the electrical systems on the 3 are so interrelated that off spec parts in one system can show as problems in a seemingly unrelated system.
Back in 2005, Land Rover was installing new ZF transmissions warranty due to owner installed non LR tail light bulbs. LR at that time, did not fully understand how their vehicle systems interacted.
In other words, why chance the unknown.
If the bulb is Philips or Osram rather than a clone, then it is probably OK. That is the problem these days - even the markings printed on the glass are faked.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
4th Jun 2014 1:01 pm
jschille
Member Since: 11 Mar 2011
Location: West coast
Posts: 18
thanks for the advice in this thread - in my case I noticed the reversing lights were on while the gear lever was firmly stuck in P - and the engine would not start. IID tool revealed lost communication with the transmission control module. Referring to this thread I found the blown fuse, and it immediately blew again after replacement and trying to start the engine.
After unplugging the capacitor everything is back to normal. I have no idea how it became soaked - and even though I am happy for the quick fix, I am scared how a 15quid part can leave a car stranded like that. Thumbs up for all of you sharing your info and facilitating the evolvement towards being a mechanic
You might refer back to my May 11, 2014 post above regarding a second capacitor on top of the petrol engine. If you have the diesel, I presume there is no capacitor as the capacitor is connected to the petrol engine ignition circuit.
The ignition capacitor when it fails, (old age I suppose), with no warning, has about the same results as the radio noise capacitor - you walk.
2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
1st Jun 2015 4:33 am
tony bennett
Member Since: 28 Jul 2005
Location: South West
Posts: 565
Re: Brake Light Switch replacement link
bbyer wrote:
If the problem is the brake light switch, the link below to a few files that I have in my gallery covers replacement of the brake light switch - and as a previous post stated, it is fairly easy once you know where to look.
Also the replacement brake switch is I now presume an improved unit. Most early 3's have at some time in the past couple of years needed a new switch installed. As such, replacing the switch now even if it is still OK is rarely a waste of money. When you take the old one apart, you will probably see carbon dust from a failing contact.
Thanks for this post and the linked page. I have an EBA fault as of this morning and my brake pads were renewed recently so hopefully the switch is the bad boy this time.regards
tony
05 "Battlestar Galactica"
In 7 years ownership
09/13 New Battery (I did that)
11/13 new alternator. (I did that)
2 x EGR Blanked. (I did that )
Since you are having a parking brake problem, if you have not already done so, you may want to download Bodsy's Brake Bible as below. There is a good section on the electronic parking brake. The problem with the parking brake can be related to the new brake install rather than anything to do with a switch.
Download the latest version; v1.6a. As of when I last looked, there has been over 13,000 views/downloads of his free 36 page pdf. I see he now has a French edition as well.
The black art part is probably towards the end, (page 27/36 and following), re the electronic parking brake.
Rather than perhaps black art stuff, it may better be called leading edge, or maybe bleeding); also the set and unset procedure applies when doing just a normal rear pad change.
If you ignore the set unset procedure, then a few miles down the road, the squealing will almost assuredly start.
The good news is the fronts are more normal, but the rears, not so!
In total, for the vehicle, you actually have three pair of brake assemblies to deal with: (1), the front pair of rotors, and pads, (2), the rear pair of rotors and pads, and then (3), the parking brake pair of drums and shoes – yes, drums and shoes sitting behind/inside the rear rotors.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
30th Jul 2015 2:45 pm
RichE
Member Since: 31 Jan 2018
Location: Tewkesbury
Posts: 1
Re: Hdc transmission and park break auto release fault & smo
RossL734 wrote:
I had this problem with mis discovery this week.
Started with smoke from underneath of car then would not start and came up with multiple faults.
Amber parking brake warning light,transmission limited gears available,park break auto release not functional.
The transmission fuse kept blowing and it wiuld not start so i put a larger fuse in to get the car started then removed the fuse once running and raised the suspension then switched it off.
Next i removed the plastic cover under the transmission and there is a small capacitor mounted next to the selector cable. If you unplug this the car goes back to normal,from what i have heard this is not esential and i have been running mine with it unplugged with no problems.
I have spoke to land rover and have ordered the part as it is cheap anyway so might aswell fit it to keep it right.
Once you have unplugged the capacitor remember to replace the transmission fuse with a 10 amp fuse then you will be on you way.
Its an unusual fault and when it happens the discovery is totaly un-movable so this procedure can be carried out pretty quikly to get you going.
Many thanks for this. My Discovery had the HDC, limited gears, parking brake etc errors on the way to a funeral. I was stuck in P, and it wouldn’t turn over, but knew how to get it into Neutral so at least if the RAC man couldn’t fix it he could get us onto a recovery truck, which they did for £120. My OBD said it couldn’t read the transmission ECU, which sounded £££££. Once I got home it was easily fixed, once I had removed the plastic transmission cover. I swapped the 10A fuse with another on a less essential circuit. We never got to the funeral...
This forum needs to sponsor a charity so anyone who is really grateful can donate to a good cause!
Any ideas?
Richard
I expect the solution was replacing the capacitor per the link below to a file in my album.
I installed a new capacitor a year or two ago, just as preventive maintenance - walking is not fun.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/displayim...amp;pos=252005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
1st Feb 2018 11:06 pm
Nudge
Member Since: 19 Nov 2017
Location: Lothians
Posts: 4
Chaps, Just want to extend a huge thanks to all contributors to this thread... My wife used the D3 to take the dog to the vets last night and came back saying it was stuck in access height and a christmas tree of lights on the dash (usual ones. Tried a few reset tricks to no avail and resorted to the forum.
So this morning went and got new brake light switch from the Landy dealer - fitted and all is well. Less than £20 and less than an hour to fix including the shopping trip.
A few years ago my wife had an Audi TT that was showing some weird symptoms that I spent nearly £2K trying to fix - new ECU, Fuel pump etc. etc. Final solution was a £30 BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH!! So imagine my relief with this one - Thanks again!!!
3rd Feb 2018 1:43 pm
snow?wotsnow?
Member Since: 01 Nov 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 24
Re: Hdc transmission and park break auto release fault & smo
RossL734 wrote:
I had this problem with mis discovery this week.
Started with smoke from underneath of car then would not start and came up with multiple faults.
Amber parking brake warning light,transmission limited gears available,park break auto release not functional.
The transmission fuse kept blowing and it wiuld not start so i put a larger fuse in to get the car started then removed the fuse once running and raised the suspension then switched it off.
Next i removed the plastic cover under the transmission and there is a small capacitor mounted next to the selector cable. If you unplug this the car goes back to normal,from what i have heard this is not esential and i have been running mine with it unplugged with no problems.
I have spoke to land rover and have ordered the part as it is cheap anyway so might aswell fit it to keep it right.
Once you have unplugged the capacitor remember to replace the transmission fuse with a 10 amp fuse then you will be on you way.
Its an unusual fault and when it happens the discovery is totaly un-movable so this procedure can be carried out pretty quikly to get you going.
Can't thank you guys enough for posting this fix. I was wafting along minding my own business when I heard a pop from under the car, followed immediately by E on the dash, park brake fault, some gears not available and various strange noises. Got to destination thinking some sort of limp mode had been activated. Engaged park and shut down thinking it might be one of those things that goes away on re-boot. No such luck. Engine unusually reluctant to start. No chance of getting out of Park - no tell-tale solenoid click on pressing the brake pedal.
Called for recovery home. Was a very difficult job because pulling the release cable under the centre console failed to release the transmission, so the recovery guy had to use skates to skid my fully locked-up D3 onto his truck.
20 minutes searching and find this thread. Fuse 30 blown. Under the transmission, pulled the plug on the suppressing capacitor. New 10amp fuse. Didn't blow. Back to normal just like that.--------------
05MY SE with BBS_SPY heated steering wheel conversion. Bought new in December 2004.
Thanks for the update.
It is always nice to hear of success - well handled!2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
