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caverD3
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
  
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Make sure you need it first. Clean the connections with isocol first.
If you need the module speak to Nick AKA "the large one" , parts manager at Yeoville LR. You will find his contact details on the site.
I think there are two modules there so make sure it is the right one.
You may need the module programed to match your VIN number once installed.
I am sure someone will advise.
Good Luck.  “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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 15th Jan 2010 12:10 am |
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rcm9
Member Since: 14 Jan 2010
Location: Lenham, Kent
Posts: 12
  
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Can anyone provide an engine bay diagram or picture pointing out wihich ECU is which..
Thanks for your help everyone
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| 15th Jan 2010 12:19 am |
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rcm9
Member Since: 14 Jan 2010
Location: Lenham, Kent
Posts: 12
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still no joy with this. have replaced the transfer case ecu just now NNW512070, obviously clleaned and blown out the multiplugs and fuse box properley.
same fault appears.
fuse no 30 "auto transmission ecu" (10 amp) blows about 3 seconds after i replace it - with everything off and the keys out..!
any other ideas? Or is anyone local to me with a diagnostic tool - am between maidstone and ashford in kent.
THANKS GUYS N GALS... Rob
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| 21st Jan 2010 10:18 pm |
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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
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Sounds like a wiring fault, causing a short, perhaps near the connector to the ECU.
Best Wishes,
Peter The Bearded Dragon
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| 24th Jan 2010 5:47 am |
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rcm9
Member Since: 14 Jan 2010
Location: Lenham, Kent
Posts: 12
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Been working away so only had a chance to look at the car again today and my local LR guy can't get to me before the weekend, so I have checked for broken or chaffed wiring around the transfer ECU and under the NSF wing can't see anything obvious.
removed brake light bulbs - fuse still pops
Noticed the reversing lights are not working - - can anyone tell me where the reverse light switch is located..?
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| 26th Jan 2010 6:04 pm |
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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
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Hi rcm,
Sorry, but I don't know where the reversing light swicth is, but I would suspect it would be adjacent to the gear selector.
An easier first check might be to remove the reversing bulbs and see if the fuse still blows. If it now works, replace both bulbs.
HTH,
Peter The Bearded Dragon
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| 26th Jan 2010 10:21 pm |
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wellan_house
Member Since: 13 Apr 2010
Location: Dartmouth, Devon
Posts: 3
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Hi,
Today I have exactly the same problem.
Auto transmission fuse (30) blowing with ignition off.
There are multiple faults shown on the dash information display when the ignition is turned on as follows:-
Park brake auto release not functioning
Transmission fault - limited gears available
HDC fault - system not available
Park brake fault
The engine won't start - refuses to crank.
Some postings suggested a faulty battery giving low voltage.
I first checked the battery and re-charged it to be sure although the voltage is fine.
I later found the blown fuse which I have replaced twice - both went after a couple of seconds
I have measured the resistance to ground of the fuse output and it looks like a short.
Did you ever find a solution?
If so, please let me know, I would be so grateful.
Thanks, Steve.
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| 13th Apr 2010 4:46 pm |
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wellan_house
Member Since: 13 Apr 2010
Location: Dartmouth, Devon
Posts: 3
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Hi,
The problem is now fixed although maybe not permanently.
I called out the AA who tried, what they called, some clean and then dirty fixes.
Firstly they changed the fuse - blew within a couple of seconds with ignition off.
Secondly, they then removed the battery negative connection, changed the fuse and replaced the connection - same result.
Thirdly, (the dirty fix) they fitted a 15 amp fuse rather than the 10A. It didn't blow and everything worked fine.
They then replaced the 15A with a 10A fuse and it didn't blow and everything has worked fine now for a week.
There was clearly some trace connection that was blowing the fuse that, with a bit more grunt, was cleared.
I can't say this is a good way of solving such a problem, but hats off to the AA, so far they have saved me a fortune.
I'll post again if the problem recurs.
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| 21st Apr 2010 11:21 am |
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Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
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Not quite sure what they thought disconnecting the battery would do! I would of had no reluctance to fit a 15A fuse (or greater) just to clear the fault. pushig up to 15A through a circuit normally fused at 10A should'nt breach the load carrying capacity of the cables 99% orf the time. There are methods for tracing short circuits to body work but a good visual is the first call - have you checked behind the battery?
I do fear your problem will return though.
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| 21st Apr 2010 7:14 pm |
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chavanne
Member Since: 11 Jun 2010
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 3
 
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| Similar problem with my car - D3 05 Auto |
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A few days ago I was starting up the car after a few days of not using it. Just as describes above I got the fault codes in the display and I could not change the gear. After consulting this forum I found this thread and I followed the suggestion to check the fuse (no 30). It was blown and I exchanged it for a new 10 A fuse. This one did not blow but instead smoke emerged from somewhere behind the engine. Since smoke is never a good thing aroung car electronics I disconnected the battery.
A few days later I tried this again together with a friend. By connecting the battery a few seconds at the time we could finally trace the smoke to a small black box fitted to the transmission on the right hand side underneith the car. It's a black box, about 40x40x20mm with two cables going into it. After removeing this part the car seems to work again.
The part number is NNW502820 and it's called CAPACITOR ASSY - RADIO SUPPRESSION.
I have ordered a new one through the local LR Dealer but the sales person could not tell me what this part actually do.
Does anyone have an idea?
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| 22nd Sep 2010 4:41 pm |
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wellan_house
Member Since: 13 Apr 2010
Location: Dartmouth, Devon
Posts: 3
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Hi,
Fuse 30 only powers the transmission ECU.
The radio suppression capacitor is fitted on this feed to reduce high frequency interference from the computer in the ECU being radiated from the vehicle by the power feed wires.
It is almost certainly non-critical and added very late in the design process during certification.
Basically, all manufacturers must ensure that their goods do not radiate radio interference above a prescribed level. Having been an electronic engineer for some years and been through this certification process, you try and make sure the basic design is sound. However, often something will just slip over the limits and you start bolting on extra bits to work around the problem rather than re-design the whole thing.
I was pretty certain that the capacitor assembly was to blame in my case and I am prepared to replace it if the fault recurs. However, so far so good and if it aint broke.....
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| 23rd Sep 2010 7:56 am |
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vodkas
Member Since: 16 Nov 2009
Location: bebington
Posts: 5
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Came to my car on Wednesday and had the dreaded transmission fault as described. Checked on this forum and found this thread about fuse 30. I only had 15 amp fuses so fitted one and all was well, went to work and came home. Next day the fuse had blown over night so I replaced it again and again and again. Smoke emerged from under the car so I stopped.
A few hours later I had another go. Smoke came from under the car but the engine started. With the engine running I removed the fuse to see what would happen. The car kept running but error messages came up on the screens. I replace the fuse with a 7.5 amp and have taken it into be repaired. On the way to the garage I had to stop for petrol and had to switch the car off. It started up no problems as if nothing is wrong.
Both times the fault has happened over night. It seemed ok yesterday and today once i had got the fuse to stop blowing.
The smoke may be the same capacitor/suppressor already discussed here.
Maybe this is becoming a common fault as a few people here have experienced it.
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| 18th Nov 2010 8:42 pm |
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John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
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I have exactly the issue that Chavane describes above...
I'm struggling to find this box - please could someone explain how to find it?
Many thanks,
John 2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
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| 13th Sep 2011 10:36 pm |
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Peter Miles
Member Since: 27 Sep 2011
Location: Margate
Posts: 2
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I have only just joined and what an absolutely brilliant facility. My fault was all the silly faults on the dash, fuse no 30 bowing and smoke coming from behind the engine. The suppressor on the gearbox was faulty, which two AA patrols had no chance of diagnosing. I showed the third the entries on this site and he went straight to it and it was all sorted. Amazing. I had been told it was the ecu or the wiring and could have cost an arm and a leg. A tip that might be useful is that the AA have a contract with Land Rover for new vehicle breakdown with fully equipped vehicles. It's called Land Rover assist and is worth asking for if you ever call them.
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| 28th Sep 2011 2:03 pm |
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Peter Miles
Member Since: 27 Sep 2011
Location: Margate
Posts: 2
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The suppressor on mine was bolted next to the gear change linkage. It looks as if is could be a switch but it isn't. Just unplug and replace later. Its under the smaller rear plastic cover.
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| 28th Sep 2011 2:07 pm |
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