I did try all 4 USB ports on my laptop - same thing - installed the driver disk that came with the lead - it had a copy of some VAG software (VDS lite or something as well).....maybe I need to check that driver installation - but I'm not an expert with computers! I have 64bit machine, will that make any difference?
9th Jan 2015 12:09 pm
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
I would pretty much say that the 64bit is the problem. I suspect your drivers will be designed for 32bit.
Are you running W8.1 ?? That doesn't help if you are.
Have you got access to another machine for testing purposes - Win XP (yes, I know it's out of support etc etc) will be a good place to start. Failing that, Win 7 32bit.
Hi - thanks, I'm running Windows 7 Professional 64 bit....
I'll try installing on my PC and see what happens - I did get the driver to start installing but windows said installation failed, also some issue with not having an electronic signature on the driver?
OK so appeared to install fine on my PC - Now to get a 20m USB extension to reach the car!
9th Jan 2015 1:23 pm
DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
hahaha I nearly considered dragging my desktop into the garage when i had similar problems connecting
9th Jan 2015 2:03 pm
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
Damian s wrote:
OK so appeared to install fine on my PC - Now to get a 20m USB extension to reach the car!
That's what Sydney from St. Neots did - check out his post top of page 32
Steve
9th Jan 2015 2:32 pm
Sydney
Member Since: 11 Aug 2013
Location: St Neots
Posts: 903
30m of Prysmian 4mm T+E cable did the trick. I wouldn't bother with long USB cables as the voltage drop over a long run will probably mean it won't work.
If it comes to it get a long enough 3 core extension lead and modify it to fit.De-Tango
V8 Brakes
EGRs blanked
Running boards
3 flash indicators and clock on dash
Blingy grille...
9th Jan 2015 2:59 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I've never really made friends with the WTT software, cables and laptop. Indeed, using it on an RRS recently was the first time ever where I just plugged it in and it all work first time.
What I have found helpful is using a serial OBD rather than a USB OBD. It has taken away the issues with port settings and just seems much more reliable. It does mean using a laptop with a serial port, which is becoming rare, but you can find older Toughbooks for very little money and run them with 32bit Vista or even XP. Mine was less than £50 for a boxed, unopened and never used laptop, albeit with the emphasis on the old part of 'New Old Stock'.
I also use proper cables on a female OBD connector whilst accessing Pin 2 via a backprobe to save messing about or damaging anything.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Success! Once I cleared the faults and primed the pump it started straight up - will be interesting to see if it starts ok when the car is in control - just need to wait until it's cold enough.
10th Jan 2015 4:06 pm
DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
Eureka
I'd run it a few more times with WTT until it will 100% run everytime without fault or lock out.
I believe lack of running makes them gum up, also don't do a prime again as that only pumps a load of diesel in and actualy makes it worse.
Thanks for the advice, seems to run without fault now, ran it 3 times, will try it again later. Thy
10th Jan 2015 4:45 pm
btekcan
Member Since: 24 Dec 2014
Location: Istanbul
Posts: 201
Martin wrote:
If it is equivalent to a SIM equipped TeleStart then it probably won't work, the D3 FBH has been reported not to operate with TeleStart units. That info is in on wiki page.
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I nearly considered dragging my desktop into the garage when i had similar problems connecting 
it is perfectly working 
