Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3464
Looks as though LR011275 supersedes to LR072413.
I'm not sure what the difference is but I have a LR072413 on the way to replace my OSF (driver's door) actuator next week.
Out of interest, what was the part number you just fitted, cornishpirate?
Steve2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
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2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
25th Mar 2016 1:07 pm
GriffMG
Member Since: 31 Dec 2015
Location: Graveley
Posts: 33
Just spent 3.5 hours on the n/s front door.
Getting the card off is not bad, clips on the handle/grip are a bit of a pain.
Getting to the second, rear, glass clip is slightly frightening - if you have forearms
like mine.
The real pigs are the little cables from the door handle.
I have no idea how I got them out and even less of an idea for how
I put them back. You can't see them, so it's all by feel.
Looked to me like the manufacturer of the lock itself had used a poor quality
grease, it had kinda set like soap, so a wash with WD40 and a liberal application
of (20 year old) BP grease and more than a smidge of good luck with the reassembly
(I took the actuator down to the circuit board and couldn't really remember how
it went back together - but managed to get it right).
Reassembly only takes 30 mins, the glass sort of self adjusts (ping, clunk, scary)
as you test it.
So, thanks to the OP for the helpful instructions and a YouTube video for the door card.There are 10 kinds of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who don't.
I'm trying to cut down on the use of shrieks (exclamation marks), I'm told they are not good for you.
25th Mar 2016 1:53 pm
cornishpirate
Member Since: 04 Sep 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 168
Woolmeister wrote:
Looks as though LR011275 supersedes to LR072413.
I'm not sure what the difference is but I have a LR072413 on the way to replace my OSF (driver's door) actuator next week.
Out of interest, what was the part number you just fitted, cornishpirate?
Steve
It was LR011275 or LR011275LR (both numbers on package.10 D4 Bali Blue
FBH Controller
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25th Mar 2016 2:26 pm
GriffMG
Member Since: 31 Dec 2015
Location: Graveley
Posts: 33
Not sure if I have missed something... the door does not now seem to unlock from the inside.
The door unlocks on the dash button and from outside - have activated a child lock by accident?There are 10 kinds of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who don't.
I'm trying to cut down on the use of shrieks (exclamation marks), I'm told they are not good for you.
26th Mar 2016 5:40 pm
HBCChief
Member Since: 03 Mar 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2
All done It took me about 2½ hours from start to finish.
The biggest pain was unclipping the shorter of the 2 cables from the faulty latch.
Thanks to Iain G - great instructions, Thanks to Steve at Advanced Factors for the new part.
14th May 2016 5:02 pm
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2908
Picked up the part from Dan at Duckworths at lunchtime, just trying to summon up the energy to do some rear door gynaecology
Ironically it seems to have decided to work again before i have started on it so its obviously realised its heading for the recycling bin and trying to be nice againMust stop buying shiny toys....
28th May 2016 2:06 pm
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2908
All done after much cursing at the stupid little clips on the cables for an hour which was stopping me take the knackered one off - then having a cup of coffee going back to it again and realising I was trying to take them off wrong!
Must confess at that point I had also found my glasses that id put down earlier and then couldn't find which didn't help
Thanks to Ian G and Robbie for the great instructions - shame the part doesnt cost the same as the price in Ians original post!
Dan at Duckworths was saying he thinks they are changing the part number again and the price will probably go up again!Must stop buying shiny toys....
28th May 2016 8:28 pm
robsa
Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: kent uk
Posts: 14
Gents. ...... followed exellent guide so far but I cannot get my hand inside the door to release the second window clip. Yes I have big arms but I just cannot get in to even feel the bloody second clip. Sat here in the sun wishing I hadn't started this. ..read above and thinking I maybe could let the lock actuator go from the torx fitting s.
Have read the post but it all hangs on getting the window actuator out
Help
12th Aug 2016 11:37 am
NickJ
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
The far window clip is a pig to get to. I don't have large arms but several times I was panicking thinking I wouldn't be able to get my arm out.
Is there an optimum night for the window to be dropped thats best?
12th Aug 2016 11:49 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8243
It is easy to get to the rear clip, you have two options, put the window actuator and switches back on and position the the glass 4" from the top and tape it up with HD tape or follow the extract below from a post I made a while ago.
It takes literally 2 minutes to take the door glass out, remove two screws holding the outside window trim, one at each end and gently without bending remove, remove the inner window trim, this just lifts out, lower the window about 6 inches. The glass is held in by two white plastic clips these clips have a retaining clip on them and needs to be prised away from the glass to be released, although there is a special tool any long thin tool will do, I used a steel ruler. Release the rear clip first by simply pushing down the long tool and lightly lift the rear of the glass while the front clip is released, now tilt the glass forward and it very easily lifts out.
This is one of the clips you can see, note the chamfer on the outside edge to assist in lifting the tab.
Once the glass is out, this is the view of the lock actuator.
This is the same view with the lock actuator removed.
First dibs on the old actuator as I may be able to repair it:rolllaugh:
It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
12th Aug 2016 3:29 pm
robsa
Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: kent uk
Posts: 14
This site is so inspirational. ......
Bit the bullet and had a neighbor on stand by to call the fire brigade. Forced my arm in and released inner window clip in seconds.
13th Aug 2016 8:02 am
robsa
Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: kent uk
Posts: 14
This site is so inspirational. ......
Bit the bullet and had a neighbor on stand by to call the fire brigade. Forced my arm in and released inner window clip in seconds.
13th Aug 2016 9:19 am
JMack
Member Since: 02 Aug 2014
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1517
Just fitted new actuator to drivers door.
Reading the instructions and a bit of fiddling and managed ok.
A tip for anyone planning on doing it:
Make sure you plug the cable onto the new actuator before re-fitting the window, winder mechanism, speaker and door card.
15th Aug 2016 5:21 pm
AACSC
Member Since: 22 Mar 2014
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 67
DRIVERS DOOR ACTUATOR REPLACEMENT WHEN DOOR LOCKED SHUT
My drivers door latch failed a couple of weeks ago and nothing I could do, including all the tweaks suggested on this site, would persuade the door to open.
To change the door lock actuator requires the door to be open so it is necessary to adopt a determined approach to the problem.
To start with the drivers seat has to come out and whilst it is awkward and very heavy it is not a real problem.
The door card has to be removed and having unclipped the clip fastenings and electrical connectors it would seem impossible to remove the card without destroying it. Not so. The problem is the large speaker and this speaker MUST be removed. Three of the screws holding the speaker are very difficult to get at, the fourth is b….y impossible. However needs must. At this stage in the game the window can be lowered and you are working standing outside the car. To give me a fraction more room I pulled off the dashboard heater outlet and the steering column undertrim and found that I could actually get my fingers onto the head of the fourth phillips screw at the bottom left of the speaker. I then fabricated what I would term a thumb screw with a phillips bit in a ¼ drive socket ( see photo 1).
With a fair degree of patience and much squeezing of my hand and fingers below the bottom of the speaker I was able to loosen the screw and remove it. The removal of the speaker is still very tight and requires a considered degree of effort to ease the door card away from the speaker . Speaker out, door card almost falls off. (ONE NIL UP!!)
The removal, or moving to one side, of the window regulator is more than adequately covered in this brilliant forum. The only downside is that with the door closed it is very awkward to get your arm into the door void to release the window clips. It is even more difficult to get your arm out!!!
The problem now is to manipulate the door lock actuator to open the door. In their infinite wisdom LR did NOT provide any last resort method of unlocking the door. However, having already purchased a new lock and mindful of the posting of VPGREY I investigated the brand new lock mechanism and identified two levers that could open the door.
The first is the white plastic lever shown in photo 2 which is between the actuator and the door inner skin. It is possible to move this lever, with a pair of thin nose pliers with a 90 degree end, and twist the lever upwards ( in the direction shown by the red arrow in photo 2), operating the internal door release cable may then open the door. In my car this lever did not open the door.
The second lever is accessed by removal of the torx screw (see photo 3) and small plastic cover which reveals a small lever, in my case the Magic lever, that may open the door. It is very beneficial to explore the new actuator and by locking the latch mechanism ( the bits that clamp to the door pillar) and by moving either the white plastic lever on one side of the actuator, or pressing the magic lever so as to witness how they unlock the door ( See photo 5 with the position of the magic lever and the precise point that needs to be pushed marked with a red arrow.)
Getting access to the magic lever with the actuator on the car is not easy, the actuator is only visible using a mirror and the magic lever is totally invisible . You have to gain access to the magic lever by using a pair of long nosed pliers with a 90 degree end or a suitably fabricated bent rod (1/4 diameter). ( see photo 4)
You will have to position the pliers by feel but lots of practice on the new lock will identify where you have to push. The route in is between the outer door skin and the actuator, near the top. After a lot of poking you will feel something move and operating the interior door latch cable results in the door swinging open ( absolute MAGIC).( TWO NIL UP)
I personally removed the actuator with the door handle which was straightforward although you will almost certainly break the tabs off the small part of the external door handle.
Replacing the actuator on a locked door is no fun and I hope that not many owners suffer this problem . It is however sortable with a bit of effort, gymnastics and patience
AACSC
Graduate of the FDC ( Fred Dibnah College)
23rd Nov 2016 7:49 pm
Mantaylor
Member Since: 10 Jan 2016
Location: Hull
Posts: 83
A massive thank you to AACSC. I relied heavily on your write up. Really got me out of a situation. Completed now and. Not something I wish to do again!
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It took me about 2½ hours from start to finish.
