Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
Good information there about the suction cups, I have the nearside rear to do in the next few weeks and the windows are factory tinted, will be using these instead of duct tape
29th Jul 2019 5:29 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14089
Hi
Must admit struggled like hell with tape so that’s why I thought of the suction cups, single ones are better because the double ones don’t curve the same as the door glass does
If I may say , Need at least 2x suction cups, so at least if u take one off to reposition it the window won’t drop
Sorry to hear about the tint coming off , hopefully the suction cups won’t cause any damage like the tape does
Glad it’s been of help and makes life easier
Hope all goes well
29th Jul 2019 10:01 am
OceanCarl
Member Since: 06 Nov 2018
Location: Spain
Posts: 6
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Last edited by OceanCarl on 28th Nov 2020 2:33 am. Edited 1 time in total
17th Oct 2019 6:16 pm
neff
Member Since: 30 May 2017
Location: Coventry
Posts: 17
Massive thanks for this write up and the wiki - just managed to do my drivers side rear door following this helpful guide.
Bizarrely, I found this not as fiddly as I expected - but then again, having owned a D1 previously and played around with all the door locks on that thing this was a doddle!
Only took around an hour in the wet.
Thanks!
2nd Nov 2019 12:30 pm
charlietortoise
Member Since: 29 Oct 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 511
Did the job
Good write up, followed it exactly for rear door. Silver covers were a worry but how to has been added on another link so that was great.
Top tip
Refitting the wire for the door handle pull to the lock is very tricky, I used some string around the lock cable being pulled from through the latch slot in the door to help me achieve the angles to refit the little silver turnbuckle.Discovery 4 3.0 HSE 2010 year. I like it a lot. Now with winch 😂
26th Nov 2019 8:55 am
migsel
Member Since: 01 May 2020
Location: Zonhoven
Posts: 5
Hi,
I am trying to remove the driver's side window motor. The door latch is fine, it's just the window that won't open. When I push the button, I hear a bit of a click in the motor and that's it. Nothing is moving.
So my problem is, the window won't open, so I can't lower it 5" as suggested.
Is it even necessary to remove the whole window opening mechanism to replace the motor only?
Can anybody point me in the right direction please?
Cheers,
Michel
1st May 2020 2:37 pm
migsel
Member Since: 01 May 2020
Location: Zonhoven
Posts: 5
Update..
I got the window motor off and when I operate the switch, the motor always rotates in the same direction!
So if I push the switch down, the window goes up, same as when I pull the switch up. Seems like there is something wrong with the switch then, not the motor?
1st May 2020 3:44 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14089
Hiya
Have been trying to find ref outer door handles
I’m convinced I read that u can change just the outer door handles without removing the interior door card but for the life of my I can’t find it
Just wondering if someone would be so kind to confirm that please ref replacing outer door handles
Many thks
17th Jun 2020 7:18 am
LaSource
Member Since: 22 Feb 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 49
Thanks for the guide. Just did the driver door in record time.
Must have done almost every door over the last 10 years.
Stupid design that periodically fails with wear and tear.
6th Sep 2020 5:28 pm
Samcoombes85
Member Since: 27 Jan 2021
Location: New Forest
Posts: 1
Hi - I have a similar problem where my passenger door doesn’t unlock with the fob. It does open via keyless if I am stood hear it, and if I manually pull the handle inside.
Might this be the actuator still? Or something else?
Thanks!
27th Jan 2021 9:22 am
charlietortoise
Member Since: 29 Oct 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 511
guide
Discovery 4 3.0 HSE 2010 year. I like it a lot. Now with winch 😂
31st Mar 2021 2:32 pm
shirra
Member Since: 05 Oct 2022
Location: Hässleholm
Posts: 38
Click image to enlarge
Someone who can tell me how to push the connector back in to the actuator.
It does not want to click
Click image to enlarge
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Click image to enlarge
29th Oct 2022 10:45 am
Shamrock
Member Since: 16 Jun 2022
Location: South Kerry
Posts: 114
Done this job this morning in just a few more than one hour. It's an easy job when you know exactly how to proceed (thanks to Iain G and Powerfulukltd videos).
I've just maintained the glass in place with a suction cup and secured with tape. I've not removed the glass mechanism but just slide it on side to get enough room.
My only regret is to have tried to remove the outside door handle. It was totally useless (except if you have sausage fingers) but I've broken the clips of the end cover
27th Apr 2023 10:56 am
kels83
Member Since: 26 Aug 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 13
I found an alternate and easier way to get the door unlocked when both handles were not engaging/unlocking. For me this was caused by a broken emergency lock barrel cable (LR part FQZ000205). It was actually the outer sheath that broke, resulting in the lock actuator getting stuck in the retracted "super lock" position. Neither inside, outside handle worked, nor the emergency key unlock. However, I was able to roll the window down, which is necessary for this method.
I needed a metal yard stick and a 24 inch screwdriver. Here's the process:
1. Roll the window down about half way
2. Pull out the interior door felt. It pulls straight up, no screws. Look down into the window to locate the window tabs. The window is slightly curved, and you'll need to get to the clip on the other side of those white tabs. But they are easier to see from the inside of the glass.
3. Pull up the exterior window felt. It's supposed to be unscrewed from both sides, but this is impossible with the door closed. Its tight, but there is JUST enough play to pull it up and over the window pinch weld so it is completely out of the way. This gives access outside the window where you will need to slide the yard stick to release the window tabs.
3. Slightly bend the metal yard stick to match the curve of the window and slide it down the outside of the window into the window lock tabs. There are two and it's possible to see them through the window.
4. When the yard stick is seated in a tab, you will feel some resistance. Twist the yard stick to open the tab and pull up on the window at the same time until you hear it unclip. Next do the other tab. It may take a couple tries, but the window will come out. Rotate it counter clockwise a few degrees until it will come out. Now you have access to the actuator and cables.
5. The door lock actuator has a black plastic cover held in by one shiny screw that you will need to break off with your long screwdriver. Just get it out of the way so you can see where the exterior handle cables attach.
6. Follow the emergency lock cable down to the actuator, it's at the one on the very top. Press the cable end or the little white arm it attaches to vertically with the screwdriver. Push it straight down about 1.5 inches, it's gotta be pushed pretty far to the point it is invisible. The stretched cable may give some extra resistance.
7. While pushing down, simultaneously pull the door handle and it should open!
This worked for me. I had the old extra actuator that I used for reference and used to test different positions that resulted in both handles not functioning.
I inspected the lock cylinder cable verified and the sheath has snapped. I would strongly recommend replacing this cable (FQZ000205) with the actuator. I will try and make a video of the procedure and operation if I get the chance. Good luck, this took about an hour once I figured it out and had the tools.
Last edited by kels83 on 16th Sep 2024 3:50 pm. Edited 2 times in total
16th Sep 2024 2:31 pm
kels83
Member Since: 26 Aug 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 13
One last detail, if your lock cylinder cable is broken like mine was, there's a temporary "fix" to get the door functioning until parts can come in. It's possible to remove the actuator and handle completely, then remove the broken lock cylinder cable and keep it for comparison with the replacement. Lastly, zip tie the white lever arm you just pulled the cable out of back into the actuator body and reassemble. This results in a fully compressed, non-superlock position and the actuator arm won't accidentally rattle back into a locked position.
Mine is working again. I thoroughly tested the lock mechanism with a screwdriver... With the door open, press the black door latch landing pad back into the locked position with the screwdriver in the perpendicular position. This simulates the black latch hitting the striker on the door sill. This will simulate a locked state even though the door is open. Next test a handle and watch the latch pop back open. Do this several times with the interior handle, the exterior handle and press the lock/unlock button to make sure the latch operates as expected and you won't get stuck with a closed door!
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