Member Since: 10 May 2013
Location: surrey
Posts: 15
Just done this job thanks to this great guide, but I felt it would be impossible to reconnect all the cables to the latch. God knows how you all achieved this.
I elected to remove the outer door handle which is fixed in quite simply by one screw inside, a lever out oval shaped bung with a Landrover logo on it. Once this is off it comes out with latch and cables all attached, makes it a relatively easy job, the second time is always easy 😉 have some photos, will try to upload. Ta
27th Jun 2014 7:52 pm
Tess
Member Since: 30 Jun 2014
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2
How can I get the door open can you help?
This post has been edited by the site administration team: full quote removed and message title moved to message
30th Jun 2014 10:34 am
Chrisholly31
Member Since: 21 Aug 2013
Location: South West
Posts: 67
Thankyou!
Amazing guide, have just cracked this job with only a bit of swearing! Somehow I managed to disconnect one of the steel cables from the regulator, following a bit of faffing and a few choice words was able to get back together again. Would have been impossible without the picture of the window regulator layout. Another job cracked - many thanks!!! 57 Defender 110 XS TDCi
55 Discovery 3 TDV6 ‘S’ Manual, re-homed in the West Country, lovingly maintained by Woody32
63 Discovery 4 SDV6 XS (Best of the bunch).
2nd Aug 2014 7:44 pm
NickJ
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
Agreed, did this job last week and it would have taken five times longer without it. The two problems I had were:
1. Couldn't get the window regulator out. Battled for half an hour then realised I missed the bit that said to drop the front guide out and remove it
2. Couldn't release the clip for the outer door handle from the motor until I read the bit that said to look through the opening on the door where the latch had been.
Ah well, rtfm I suppose...
Took about three hours inculing strip down of latch unit, cleaning motor, resemble and clear up tools etc. That would have been £300+ labour job at a dealer, and they wouldn't have repaired the latch, but would have replaced it
3rd Aug 2014 6:34 am
grzesiul
Member Since: 11 May 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 6415
I am looking at passenger side lock replacement as well but looking at microcat I find at least two different frequency locks for my vin number
how do I know what frequency lock I need to go for? not much in workshop man apart from the fact there are 3 frequencies?
G
4th Aug 2014 7:04 am
oceandriven
Member Since: 01 Dec 2013
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 34
FANTASTIC guide thanks!
Just ordered front passenger and rear door locks.
Quite a helluva job. Each disco series seems to get more damn difficult to replace these locks!
7th Aug 2014 7:38 am
littlewasp16
Member Since: 19 Sep 2011
Location: wales
Posts: 116
Just removed the front passenger lock mechanism, part no LRO 11277 I think, motor knackered beyond repair , were is the cheapest place to get a new one, thanks.
13th Aug 2014 5:51 pm
bigtam64
Member Since: 19 Nov 2009
Location: Leeds
Posts: 192
Bloody Nora the latch assembly has gone up
Since 2009 stealers want £100 for new latch assembly
Weekends are to short
Egr valves removed
15th Aug 2014 5:03 pm
Chrisholly31
Member Since: 21 Aug 2013
Location: South West
Posts: 67
I recently got my front drivers door latch for £85.31 from Marshall Land Rover on E-Bay - that included P&P if that's any help?57 Defender 110 XS TDCi
55 Discovery 3 TDV6 ‘S’ Manual, re-homed in the West Country, lovingly maintained by Woody32
63 Discovery 4 SDV6 XS (Best of the bunch).
15th Aug 2014 5:26 pm
bigtam64
Member Since: 19 Nov 2009
Location: Leeds
Posts: 192
That's a bit better than stealer and that didn't include vatWeekends are to short
Egr valves removed
Hi What a brilliant guide but does anyone in shropshire / Worcestershire want to do mine for me as I am hopeless! For a fee obviously, I am not happy paying LR prices.
25th Aug 2014 12:18 pm
epninety
Member Since: 12 Oct 2012
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 329
I just replaced both front door solenoids this weekend (did the rears last year).
Thanks to Iain Gs guide ( ), all was pretty easy, except for one thing.
Quote:
Now the fiddly bits begin. The door glass is held to the regulator in two places on the guides. The guides are fairly chunky bits of plastic. To release the glass you simply prise open, by pulling the top edge of the guides towards the outer skin (action shown in red on following picture) while you 'lift' the glass from its guide. To get to the rear most guide you need to get your whole arm into the cavity behind the regulator.
There is NO WAY I could get my arm behind the regulator to release the second glass clip. In fact, I can't even get my arm in through the speaker hole
In case anyone else has the same issue, I found that if you push the cable grommet though into the door cavity, you can open the rear glass clip carefully pushing with a long screwdriver. Alternatively, there's a hole in the door covered with a sticker next to it which is directly in line with the clip. (Have a look at the front clip first, so you can figure out where to push).
Dave
9th Nov 2014 8:59 pm
stew 46
Member Since: 01 Dec 2011
Location: cornwall
Posts: 10148
this was a great help yesterday -------------------------------------------------
if you cant hold on dont let go , it ill come in handy for something even if you never use it.
D3 SE 05,
110 s wagon 300 tdi SOLD
h top transit
crew cab transit
transit connect
ausa dumper, muck truck .
peljob 2.5 digger
06 L 200 crew cab
10th Nov 2014 5:12 am
Andy2484
Member Since: 03 Jul 2010
Location: Coventry
Posts: 10
Door Latch Additional Comments
Thank you for the posts regarding replacing the front door latch. I managed to do mine in just under 2 hours today. I did it slightly differently to the instructions and thought I would share with the group:
1) I did not bother to remove the window guide.
2) I did not remove the window modulator. I just removed all the bolts / nuts and slid it out of the way to access the door latch (save messing around trying to get it out of the hole).
3) After fiddling around trying to remove the cables from the door latch, I found it easier to remove the door handle. To do this, follow this sequence:
a) Remove the sticker covering a hole on the interior door skin and use a torx extension to remove the bolt securing the handle.
b) Remove the external door lock cover (the one you use to unlock the door if the battery is flat or central locking not working).
c) Remove the grommet located at handle level above the door latch to expose a torx bolt.
d) Remove the torx bolt and remove the lock barrel.
e) Unhook the door handle. To do this, slide the handle towards the rear of the car and then unhook.
f) When the handle is removed, remove the rubber protection to expose a small oblong plastic locking pin. Remove this and you will be able to release the handle housing by sliding it towards the front of the car. You will then be able to remove the entire latch and handle assembly.
This sounds complicated but it was quite easy and it enables you to easily remove all cables and reattach to the new unit.Andy B.
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