Member Since: 23 Sep 2021
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 27
No turbo after egr blank.?
Hi all there can anyone help the 2005 2.7 has some issues, blanked egr valves the other day because was blowing black smoke on acceleration, smoke has basically gone but now the turbo doesn’t seem to exist at all no matter the rev range there’s no turbo whistle and it is really slow on acceleration no lights on the dash or error messages ect starts fine and idles spot on any help will be a great help as need to get it sorted asap
22nd Dec 2021 11:21 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Hi
After u blanked the egrs did u also remove the throttle butterfly valve plse , plus would be a good idea to remove and give ur map sensor a clean, plse ensure u don’t put anything down the hole
Plse ensure after removing the butterfly valve u reinstall the spindle
Ensure the left hand intercooler hose as u look at the engine isn’t split ,ref blanking egrs it’s always best to leave the egr pipes in situ , so that when it goes in for its mot they can’t see you’ve blanked them , u place a blank between each of the egr pipes and egr down by the engine block so it can’t be seen
Give ur egr pipes a clean up the best u can
Would also be a good idea to get the codes read just in case there’s other issues
Here’s also a link ref that butterfly valve removal , indeed as mentioned don’t remove the egr pipes
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4871
Black smoke = failed pipework on the charge side of the turbo, nothing to do with EGR's.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
22nd Dec 2021 11:56 pm
Devon Z
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Brixham Devon
Posts: 247
All the above, I found unplugging the EGR valves made a big difference to mine.
FYI all my pipe work is in box in the garage😃Steve
*2005 RR Sport 2.7tdv6 HSE. Current project.
*98 Volvo V70R FWD, owned 14 years, future project.
*99 BMW Z3 30k miles owned from new.
23rd Dec 2021 12:04 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Hi mate
Bless u as always for ur vast expertise , did mention about the large left intercooler hose being split , may i ask please if that butterfly valve was left in situ what systems would it cause please
Apologise as always asking daft questions and always appreciated , many thks
23rd Dec 2021 12:10 am
Landy2021
Member Since: 23 Sep 2021
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 27
[quote="gstuart"]Hi
After u blanked the egrs did u also remove the throttle butterfly valve plse , plus would be a good idea to remove and give ur map sensor a clean, plse ensure u don’t put anything down the hole
Plse ensure after removing the butterfly valve u reinstall the spindle
Ensure the left hand intercooler hose as u look at the engine isn’t split ,ref blanking egrs it’s always best to leave the egr pipes in situ , so that when it goes in for its mot they can’t see you’ve blanked them , u place a blank between each of the egr pipes and egr down by the engine block so it can’t be seen
Give ur egr pipes a clean up the best u can
Would also be a good idea to get the codes read just in case there’s other issues
Hi there yes I removed the butterfly valve and reinstalled the spindle ect also cleaned the map sensor was proper crusty looking, I used that instructions when I installed the blanking kit as the kit didn’t come with any and I haven’t installed the pipes back on but I will do if needed for mot purposes, I had to buy a new jubilee clip for that boost hose because the one on the throttle body didn’t tighten up and was leaking I will check all the pipes inercooler ect tomorrow as for the code’s will they show up even if there’s no warning lights/ messages coming up
23rd Dec 2021 12:15 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Devon Z wrote:
All the above, I found unplugging the EGR valves made a big difference to mine.
FYI all my pipe work is in box in the garage😃
Hi mate
Admittedly the first time i blanked the egrs I removed the pipes then read about MOT’s so reinstalled them
Plus 1, as it certainally ran better after being blanked , throttle body and pipes were in a right mess, along with the Map being totally blocked and then fitted a silicone intercooler hoses and T bolt clamps
23rd Dec 2021 12:16 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
[quote="Landy2021"]
gstuart wrote:
Hi
Hi there yes I removed the butterfly valve and reinstalled the spindle ect also cleaned the map sensor was proper crusty looking, I used that instructions when I installed the blanking kit as the kit didn’t come with any and I haven’t installed the pipes back on but I will do if needed for mot purposes, I had to buy a new jubilee clip for that boost hose because the one on the throttle body didn’t tighten up and was leaking I will check all the pipes inercooler ect tomorrow as for the code’s will they show up even if there’s no warning lights/ messages coming up
Hiya
Many thks for the answers and great that’s all done, if it helps I personally bought some T bolt clamps , fitted silicone hoses and never had an issue them coming off or leaking , as @prof g mentions will be the intercooler hoses that cause ur black smoke
Did measure all the intercooler hoses and listed them in this link
Alas don’t know how much difference there is on the existing intercooler hoses , I did also find one of my intercooler hose right on the turbo loose which caused whistling plus limp mode , was a broken jubilee clip, think I’ve got a picture somewhere just in case
Fingers crossed it was just that throttle body intercooler hose that was causing the black smoke
Ref the codes I just mentioned that as a belt and braces approach just in case there are any that need addressing
Hope that helps
Last edited by gstuart on 23rd Dec 2021 12:37 am. Edited 1 time in total
23rd Dec 2021 12:23 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Found those pics ref the intercooler hose clamps , fingers crossed it was just that throttle body clamp , but just wished to mention regarding that hose on the turbo just in case it’s leaking from there , a sign of it leaking was , whistling , traces of oil and when I booted it limp mode
2nd picture is another intercooler hose clamp hidden behind the wheel arch liner
Hope that helps and plse let us know how u get on
23rd Dec 2021 12:34 am
Landy2021
Member Since: 23 Sep 2021
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 27
I will let you know how I get on tomorrow and thanks for all the information been helpful in the quest for boost. I’m hoping it’s something simple. That’s the cleanest d3 under wheel arch ever
23rd Dec 2021 12:52 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Ur so welcome and always a team forum effort
Many thks, removed the wheel arch liners to spray them with dinitrol the chassis etc was also done , must admit very pleased with it as it still looks the same some 4 x years down the road
Ref diagnostics , if u haven’t got one , the basic Autel AP200 for around £50 and the all singing and dancing gap iid for around £450 are the common ones that we all use
Apologises I’m waffling, lol, yes plse, let us know how u get on
As above you have a leak in the air charge, check all connections and hoses. It would also help if you filled in your profile fully on what model you own.
Flack
23rd Dec 2021 11:03 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Hi flack , just wished to say, hope ur keeping well
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