Member Since: 23 Sep 2021
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 27
[quote="gstuart"]
Stripped the arch liner off ect no leaks near the turbo or pipework and the bracket that holds the metal boost pipe has broken off but seems to be no leaks but the drivers intercooler clamp must of been a tad loose was oily all around the joint on the intercooler tightened it it and still no different
23rd Dec 2021 7:59 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Hiya
That’s great the passenger side is ok, must admit would personally get a new bracket if u can
Ref the leaking intercooler hose, it might have a split in it, have u taken it off and checked the full length of it , the protective sleeve can easily be removed for inspecting the hose
plus get a T bolt clamp , certainly won’t leak then at the top joint with it being a lot wider than a standard jubilee clip , have to use an ordinary jubilee clip for the bottom as the intercooler outlet is oval shaped , when I did have to use a jubilee clip got some decent stainless steel ones
Will have a search now for u ref the bracket
Last edited by gstuart on 23rd Dec 2021 9:12 pm. Edited 4 times in total
23rd Dec 2021 8:59 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
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Last edited by gstuart on 23rd Dec 2021 9:08 pm. Edited 1 time in total
23rd Dec 2021 9:03 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2462
I would look at you throttle body seals, its possible one has popped off when you dod the buterfly valveAndrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
23rd Dec 2021 9:05 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
^^^ Great call mate
23rd Dec 2021 9:07 pm
Landy2021
Member Since: 23 Sep 2021
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 27
gstuart wrote:
Hiya
That’s great the passenger side is ok, must admit would personally get a new bracket if u can
Ref the leaking intercooler hose, it might have a split in it, have u taken it off and checked the full length of it , the protective sleeve can easily be removed for inspecting the hose
plus get a T bolt clamp , certainly won’t leak then at the top joint with it being a lot wider than a standard jubilee clip , have to use an ordinary jubilee clip for the bottom as the intercooler outlet is oval shaped , when I did have to use a jubilee clip got some decent stainless steel ones
Will have a search now for u ref the bracket
Hi there I’ve checked your link and it’s the 6k383c pipe witch the bracket has broken but it hasn’t seemed to caused anything to leak, yes I took the pipe off and inspected it and cleaned it but didn’t see any splits but never removed the protector selves so will whip it back off tomorrow only take few mins even managed to get the wheel arch liner out without taking the wheel off I will look into getting some t bolt clamps for it, could it be the maf sensor would it throw up a engine light/warning thanks for the help
23rd Dec 2021 11:19 pm
Landy2021
Member Since: 23 Sep 2021
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 27
aja4x4 wrote:
I would look at you throttle body seals, its possible one has popped off when you dod the buterfly valve
I will strip it all back down tomorrow and retrace my steps check all seals ect I think I might have some new rubber i rings the right size so I might just replace them if they fit thanks for the info
23rd Dec 2021 11:21 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Landy2021 wrote:
gstuart wrote:
Hiya
That’s great the passenger side is ok, must admit would personally get a new bracket if u can
Ref the leaking intercooler hose, it might have a split in it, have u taken it off and checked the full length of it , the protective sleeve can easily be removed for inspecting the hose
plus get a T bolt clamp , certainly won’t leak then at the top joint with it being a lot wider than a standard jubilee clip , have to use an ordinary jubilee clip for the bottom as the intercooler outlet is oval shaped , when I did have to use a jubilee clip got some decent stainless steel ones
Will have a search now for u ref the bracket
Hi there I’ve checked your link and it’s the 6k383c pipe witch the bracket has broken but it hasn’t seemed to caused anything to leak, yes I took the pipe off and inspected it and cleaned it but didn’t see any splits but never removed the protector selves so will whip it back off tomorrow only take few mins even managed to get the wheel arch liner out without taking the wheel off I will look into getting some t bolt clamps for it, could it be the maf sensor would it throw up a engine light/warning thanks for the
help
Ur so welcome , been where u are so understand it being a pain, indeed remove the sleeve and check that hose , have seen some pictures where it’s really hard to see any splits , think there were a few on the underside of the bend , ref that bracket I’d be worried just in case theres any vibration , maybe get one second hand of ebay etc
Hats off to u for getting the liner out with the wheel on, a feat in its self , lol
Are u still getting lights come up then, have u rescanned it with a code reader plse
Plus 1 what @ aja4x4 mentions with regards to the large O rings , plus handy if u have some clear silicone grease which helps on the re installation of the throttle Y piece
Wouldn’t hurt to also ensure connectors are secure , ie, Maf, Map , air temperature sensor , etc, plus found those T bolt clamps very good , they just need nipping up due to the amount of force they can produce
Hope that helps a a little and please let us know how u get on , including what ur current errors are, including what lights and codes if any, thks
Before I forget have u got a multimeter or diagnostics that can do live data plse, just in case we need to test some sensors , Plus at the end of the day plenty of us here to help if u stuck
Last edited by gstuart on 23rd Dec 2021 11:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total
23rd Dec 2021 11:33 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Few links for u with regards to the T bolts and jubilee clips , plus hope u don’t mind me mentioning it but it will be easier if u fill in ur profile so anyone will then know straight away what disco u have, thks
Ref the leaking intercooler hose, it might have a split in it, have u taken it off and checked the full length of it , the protective sleeve can easily be removed for inspecting the hose
plus get a T bolt clamp , certainly won’t leak then at the top joint with it being a lot wider than a standard jubilee clip , have to use an ordinary jubilee clip for the bottom as the intercooler outlet is oval shaped , when I did have to use a jubilee clip got some decent stainless steel ones
Will have a search now for u ref the bracket
Hi there I’ve checked your link and it’s the 6k383c pipe witch the bracket has broken but it hasn’t seemed to caused anything to leak, yes I took the pipe off and inspected it and cleaned it but didn’t see any splits but never removed the protector selves so will whip it back off tomorrow only take few mins even managed to get the wheel arch liner out without taking the wheel off I will look into getting some t bolt clamps for it, could it be the maf sensor would it throw up a engine light/warning thanks for the
help
Ur so welcome , been where u are so understand it being a pain, indeed remove the sleeve and check that hose , have seen some pictures where it’s really hard to see any splits , think there were a few on the underside of the bend , ref that bracket I’d be worried just in case theres any vibration , maybe get one second hand of ebay etc
Hats off to u for getting the liner out with the wheel on, a feat in its self , lol
Are u still getting lights come up then, have u rescanned it with a code reader plse
Plus 1 what @ aja4x4 mentions with regards to the large O rings , plus handy if u have some clear silicone grease which helps on the re installation of the throttle Y piece
Wouldn’t hurt to also ensure connectors are secure , ie, Maf, Map , air temperature sensor , etc, plus found those T bolt clamps very good , they just need nipping up due to the amount of force they can produce
Hope that helps a a little and please let us know how u get on , including what ur current errors are, including what lights and codes of any
I think my plan of attack tomorrow will be to strip all the intercooler piping off check every inch of it before it goes back on take that metal pipe off with the broken bracket and inspect/try to repair if possible doubt I’m getting one this Side of Boxing Day I tried to record it moving about but it’s not the best quality as my light wouldn’t work on my phone whilst recording (something else that dosnt work as intended. It’s a strange one because no warnings/lights ect at all checked all sensors ect unplugged them all electrical contact cleaner and reinstalled no matter what it was plugged into. As for the liner I don’t like Landrover wheels anymore after spending 8+ hours Tuesday in the cold and wet with the dremel removing the 2 rear locking wheel nuts and it turns out it weren’t the nuts or the locking key it was the wheel nuts had corroded/welded themselves to the wheel so that was a job and half after grinding the nut down to the wheel past the metal washer I had to spend 20 mins kicking the wheel side to side to break the corrosion
23rd Dec 2021 11:52 pm
Landy2021
Member Since: 23 Sep 2021
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 27
gstuart wrote:
See what u mean now with regards to that bracket , personally would fit a second hand one, see on eBay they are around £35-45.00
Never know maybe u have a split in the metal pipe round the back, but must admit haven’t heard that happening before
Plse don’t worry as where help u all we can to get it resolved , plus that dent is supposed to be there in the pipe
Yes that’s the pipe the brackets solid on the car so some get how it’s managed to break as it should be pretty solid I’d imagine £45 bargain that is might just but that in the morning see what condition this broken ones in first it’s like a full time job working on the big silver bus especially never worked on one before but I’ve learnt absolutely loads working on the d3
23rd Dec 2021 11:57 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Many thks for the reply, may i ask please have u checked that ur turbo actuator arm also motors back and forth plse
When u turn ur ignition off there’s a software program that moves the arm back and forth to help preventing it from seizing
If u remove that intercooler pipe on the passenger side that will actually be an ideal time to double check , along with spraying some silicone spray onto the actuator arm , maybe get someone to sit in the landy for u turning the ign on and off as u check and spray the arm as it moves
However when they seize ur normally get limp mode if u boot it or over 2,500 revs, along with code P132B, that what happened to mine
Hope that helps a little and honestly mate we all have to start somewhere , 5 x years ago I knew nothing about the D3 , with the awesome help from here I learnt little by little as time went by, there’s still a lot I need to learn so please don’t ever think there a daft question as blimey I do ask plenty, lol
Do I know anyone with a welder or got one urself, unless of course it’s to far gone
Blimey that’s all u needed ref the wheel nuts, indeed they rust underneath the nut caps swell so it’s a right sod getting a socket on there
Finally may i ask please have u got some irwin sockets , there a godsend,
Also please don’t think I’m trying to teach u how to suck eggs with regards to suspension, don’t ever get underneath without axle stands, when I remove a wheel I normally raise it to off road height , pull fuse F26 in the engine bay , or remove battery leads, then jack it up , then place axle stands underneath
be careful when reinstalling the fuse , battery lead as the suspension can then all of a sudden drop to its bump stops , once again hope that doesn’t come across as being rude in any way
24th Dec 2021 12:12 am
Landy2021
Member Since: 23 Sep 2021
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 27
Sorry all for the late reply been busy, it now has boost’ish no splits in pipes or anything egr blanking kit was leaking a bit on the tbh turns out I overtightend it, sorted that out it all back together still no boost, got a mongoose pro sdd, with genuine dealer software installed on the laptop, read codes cleared codes now has 80% of its boost just doesn’t feel like it used to, then I tackled the sunroof drain pipe grommets, did the passanger side first took me 2 hours putting the two plugs back in place on the back of the cjb then it wouldn’t start so had to fiddle with them plugs again then waalaaa it fired up, drivers side turns out some one replaced that one but never pushed the pipe back in the grommet properly so sorted that and cable tied it on just to make sure don’t pop off again and we’ve had 2 days of really heavy rain here and I’m glad to say the Landrover is now dry so won’t bother checking the back ones just yet 😀 but now it works it’s coming up “transmission fault traction reduced”nothing coming up on laptop as a error code and I’ve read that much stuff what it could be I don’t know where to start hope all you knowledgable d3 gurus have had a great Christmas and and good start to the new year
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