I'd guess it carried the W-Bus signal from the software the removed during the "enhancement" programme. You know, the kind of enhancement that actually reduces functionality
Red wire no longer present on newer models.I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
9th Dec 2008 9:00 pm
andychelt
Member Since: 24 Mar 2008
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 344
ah yes that would make sense! Explains why my 54 plate has the red wire.
So if the red wire is already present I take it theres no need for a FBH connector pin, as you just cut said red wire and then attach new wire to the cut length of existing red wire coming out of pin 2
Exactamundo I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
10th Dec 2008 7:10 pm
andychelt
Member Since: 24 Mar 2008
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 344
11th Dec 2008 8:08 am
andychelt
Member Since: 24 Mar 2008
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 344
Ok, so just a last few of questions to get everything straight in my head! . Sorry!
The red wire......
10forcash wrote:
DONT tap into the wire with it still connected to the ATCU
So how/where do I disconnect? Do I just wait for the Disco to go to sleep and then snip!?!
Once red wire is cut do I just want to tape it up out of the way somewhere, or do I connect it back to Pin 2 on the FBH along with the new lead from the timer?
And with the timer, the top right pin is w-bus for pin 2 on the FBH and the top left is OUT so if i connect top right to FBH pin 2 and it all works does this mean I don't need to connect anything at all to the OUT pin?
11th Dec 2008 1:35 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
Just cut the red wire somewhere convenient and connect the timer W-Bus output to the end going to the FBH, tie back the other end as it's not needed / used, the comment above related to tapping into the circuit, you can cut the wire no problems (there is no need to tap into it as there is no functionality from the ATCU / CJB )
11th Dec 2008 2:12 pm
andychelt
Member Since: 24 Mar 2008
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 344
thanks 10
11th Dec 2008 4:48 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
andychelt wrote:
And with the timer, the top right pin is w-bus for pin 2 on the FBH and the top left is OUT so if i connect top right to FBH pin 2 and it all works does this mean I don't need to connect anything at all to the OUT pin?
No ..unless you want to add an LED or some indication ..the "out " connector will produce 12 v + when the timer is activeG4 Gone ...but not forgotten
A quick question to all who have done this mod and who obviously are not as thick as I am.
In stapldm's excellent instructions, he lists 2 x 16mm circular crimp-on connectors. I've hunted high and low and can't find anything that big. Biggest I can find are some with a 12mm hole. Are they the ones he means (i.e. is 16mm the outside diameter)?
Got all the bits except those and the 3mm and 1.6mm wires and am hoping to do the mod tomorrow (weather permitting) so a quick reply would be welcome Now an ex-D3 owner after 7 happy years. Miss the car but not the big bills
19th Dec 2008 1:52 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
I think he means 16mm across the hole crimp
You only need a crimp with an 8mm hole in the center to go over the battery and earth post ..
Red , blue and yellow crimps are just for wire sizes
Red - Wire size in mm2 0.25-1.65
Blue - Wire size in mm2 1.04-2.63
Yellow - Wire size in mm2 2.63-6.64G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
19th Dec 2008 3:48 pm
countrywide
Member Since: 16 Sep 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 6019
As per the Land Rover fitting instructions for the kit, I took the permanent power from the light switch. Seemed to work OK.
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