M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8166
  
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 series 2A is probably the most reliable LR I've owned.  It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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 5th Mar 2014 10:33 pm |
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Valhalla
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
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Disco_Mikey wrote:You mean Peugeot? 
You mean Landrover..... Who got the first fully electronic passenger diesel to market, albeit for Japanese emissions? A sturdy little MSA6 onto the venerable TDi?
Ever analysed how long it took other companies to get there with proper grown-up electronic programming? Peugeot  Jaguar
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| 6th Mar 2014 1:04 am |
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Valhalla
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
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M3DPO wrote: series 2A is probably the most reliable LR I've owned.
I use a Srs.III to push all the "dead electric" jobs into the workshop. And tow them out again  . Lack of extraneous elektrickery means that "Lara" (Croft Rover) starts after 4months of being left outside in the rain. Just like the D3's...
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| 6th Mar 2014 1:12 am |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20794
 
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M3DPO wrote:You youngsters don't know how lucky you are to have the joys of the TDV6, Land Rover experimented and tried to build a V6 diesel engine for 30 and still failed until Jaguar came along
Valhalla wrote:Disco_Mikey wrote:You mean Peugeot?
You mean Landrover..... Who got the first fully electronic passenger diesel to market, albeit for Japanese emissions? A sturdy little MSA6 onto the venerable TDi?
Ever analysed how long it took other companies to get there with proper grown-up electronic programming? Peugeot Jaguar
We were discussing the TDV6 (which is a PSA engine), not the 300TDi  My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 6th Mar 2014 7:40 am |
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M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8166
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Whoever it was it wasn't LR, they failed in designing and producing a diesel V8 or V6, although they did design and make one it was never put into production, even the original 3.5 V8 petrol was American designed. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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| 6th Mar 2014 8:54 am |
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Sloss
Member Since: 18 Aug 2013
Location: Aberdeenish
Posts: 1691
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Quote:even the original 3.5 V8 petrol was American designed.
By a guy from Montrose in Scotlandshire called David Dunbar Buick ....... Stew,
2010 D4 gone but I really loved it
Went back to Merc - C350 AMG
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| 6th Mar 2014 9:19 am |
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waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2893
 
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Sh*t - we've managed to turn this into another independence debate - PLEASE keep up with the technical detail  Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
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| 6th Mar 2014 10:22 am |
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waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2893
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M3DPO wrote: series 2A is probably the most reliable LR I've owned.
The 2A I was referring to was actually potentially lethal as it was a very very early lpg conversion- we had to strap a calor gas cylinder across the rear face if the central bulkhead and then connect this to a long flaxible rubber hose  Various valves etc were involved which were regularly checked with soapy water for leaks.
Having said that, it did always start on the button despite sometimes not having been used for months on end Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
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| 6th Mar 2014 10:25 am |
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M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8166
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waterbuoy wrote:Sh*t - we've managed to turn this into another independence debate - PLEASE keep up with the technical detail
Sorry, just idle chat while we wait for fast1cars to return, he is probably having problems starting his S11 to tow his disabled manual D3 into action It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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| 6th Mar 2014 11:31 am |
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Valhalla
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
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Hmm, yes, no independence debates, sorry
However, the Landrover TDV6 was entirely calibrated by the Landover calibration team from start (at Ford) to end, and that's the bits that matter for getting poor fast1cars going again - he needs information on fuel pressures and elektrickery to work out what has happened here
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| 6th Mar 2014 12:21 pm |
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fast1cars
Member Since: 27 Dec 2013
Location: bury st edmunds
Posts: 72
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i am back sorry for the delay, after purchase fuel pressure tester it has been established that the low pressure pump was really low infact 1.5psi. new pump ordered and taking of tank in the morning.
hopefully it will be running shorlty.
ps the chat has made me laugh cheers John
Classic rangerover 3.5 V8 -sold now
Classic rangerover -6.2 gmc deisel sold now
Classic rangerover 3.9v8 sold now
P38 4.0 v8 sold now
Disco 1 3.9v8 sold now
Discovery 2 TD5 just sold
sierra cosworth with 498BHP fastest car I have ever owned-now sold
megabusa currently lots of fun
current Disco 3- broken at the moment
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| 7th Mar 2014 10:15 pm |
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M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8166
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Hope the post below by dingdongs is of help and you have not ordered a genuine LR pump-
http://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/206607-in...1757-p.asp
dingdongs
Member Since: 30 May 2012
Location: St. Lawrence Bay Essex & Falkland Islands
Posts: 94
this is the in tank pump and this is identical to the one you require.advanced factors do one
http://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/206607-in...1757-p.asp
to do the job requires
less than a 1/4 tank of juice then no spillage when dropping tank out the refill hose.
undo jubilee clip
remove 2 covers.near prop and plastic undershield below fuel filter.
this will give access to unclip 2 pipes at front end of tank just above the chassis cross member close to the tanks 2 front bolts.
if diy a good 3tonne plus trolley jack as well as a pair of axle stands is a must.
jack car up until both wheels are just off the ground and this will give good access.
I found half a dozen lengths of 4"x4" timber about 3 foot in length to bring tank down in stages is very helpful if doing the job by yourself and a bit of scaffold pipe to prize tank off wood when down so can be pulled from under car.
here goes then;
remove fuel fill pipe(if full you will require a deep tray for fuel)
split 2 fuel pipes at front end of tank.
unclip pipes that run down inner side of tank next to prop.
undo all 6 tank screws but leave in for a while.
jack and wood required now.
remove 2 side bolts and 1 inner side bolt. tank is still up at this stage
remove rear bolt and lower a few inches onto a wood stack
remove 2 front bolts and lower onto a wood stack feeding the 3 already unclipped flow and return pipes under the chassis so they can be see.
stage lower tank down to ground being careful to make sure pipe work is free to lower.when I had it on a piece of timber at each end the on top of tank pipework and electrical connector to be removed carefully.
jubilee clip for the breather pipe and a hose with a pressable clip too.An electrical connector and the tank should be ready for dragging out now.
there will be a tube in the tanks refill spout remove and plug with cloth to avoid spillage,
if you have a vacuum pump once the lids off by undoing the clip and prising the white ringopen and turning round to remove you'll be now to the inner of the tank.
3 electrical connectors to unclip and a few pipes too but may be worth writing down their positions.
inside you will see to the side a white unit in which on the inside the pump is hiding.
a PELA vacuum pump may be a good item to have to remove the diesel now or you hands will be swimming in fuel.
release green clip and slide towards rear of tank and you will now be able to remove pumps housing,pipework and fuel sender as a complete unimay be worth taking some photos of positioning b4 pulling out and the floats position so it works when you put it all together again.
top pops off the fuel pumps housing and gently prize all apart .bit of a pain getting the flow pipe off the pump but a hairdryer can be used to soften the pipe.disconnect electrical plug from the old unit and fit the new one with original electrical connector.
refit all back together.
problems I encountered were the 2 connectors at front of tank as both differ on how to unclip them.1 was a squeeze from either side and the other was pull a small pin out about 2/3mm and then squeeze to remove.
about 3 to 4 hours to do the job but a grand cheaper than taking it into a dealership.
bleed schraeder valve about 3 to 4 cycles of the ignition with plenty of rag around b4 attempting to start.normally starts fairly quickly after that.
2290 code was not stated on my hawkeye the 2nd time it failed so I was thinking it cant have gone again but it had.was running rough with esf (engine system fault) flashing suddenly and car failed to start so you normally try cranking and cranking but will not start. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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| 7th Mar 2014 11:13 pm |
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fast1cars
Member Since: 27 Dec 2013
Location: bury st edmunds
Posts: 72
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no, i didnt i cant believe how much landrover want for there pump.but they do want to sell you a module. cheers John
Classic rangerover 3.5 V8 -sold now
Classic rangerover -6.2 gmc deisel sold now
Classic rangerover 3.9v8 sold now
P38 4.0 v8 sold now
Disco 1 3.9v8 sold now
Discovery 2 TD5 just sold
sierra cosworth with 498BHP fastest car I have ever owned-now sold
megabusa currently lots of fun
current Disco 3- broken at the moment
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| 8th Mar 2014 8:10 am |
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fast1cars
Member Since: 27 Dec 2013
Location: bury st edmunds
Posts: 72
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M3DPO wrote:waterbuoy wrote:Sh*t - we've managed to turn this into another independence debate - PLEASE keep up with the technical detail
Sorry, just idle chat while we wait for fast1cars to return, he is probably having problems starting his S11 to tow his disabled manual D3 into action
i know have 1400 bar coming up on code reader (140MPA) but still cant get it started.any ideas.
could the cam sensor be to far away to read or wouldnt it run anyway.  cheers John
Classic rangerover 3.5 V8 -sold now
Classic rangerover -6.2 gmc deisel sold now
Classic rangerover 3.9v8 sold now
P38 4.0 v8 sold now
Disco 1 3.9v8 sold now
Discovery 2 TD5 just sold
sierra cosworth with 498BHP fastest car I have ever owned-now sold
megabusa currently lots of fun
current Disco 3- broken at the moment
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| 8th Mar 2014 2:54 pm |
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fast1cars
Member Since: 27 Dec 2013
Location: bury st edmunds
Posts: 72
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BUMP update, after looking into this a little more I am going to take the HPFP off and get this checked. There is a relief valve back to fuel tank and I think this is what's happening.
hopefully this will sort it. cheers John
Classic rangerover 3.5 V8 -sold now
Classic rangerover -6.2 gmc deisel sold now
Classic rangerover 3.9v8 sold now
P38 4.0 v8 sold now
Disco 1 3.9v8 sold now
Discovery 2 TD5 just sold
sierra cosworth with 498BHP fastest car I have ever owned-now sold
megabusa currently lots of fun
current Disco 3- broken at the moment
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| 9th Mar 2014 10:33 am |
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