The battery on my D3 died two weeks ago and wouldn't charge. I assumed it was a victim of a couple of bad frosts and it was of an unknown age so I duly sent for another. That arrived, the motor started and we used the motor for a couple of days, but didn't go far and once was at night (lights on...)
Then the battery went flat and after three attempts to charge it, it won't take a charge. I've left it overnight on a trickle (2 amps and no go). Last night I left it on a 4 amp charge with both terminals disconnected for 12 hours. This morning it showed 10 volts; it was 11 volts the previous evening.
The charger is putting out 12 volts, and I can tell red from black..
I may have bought a duff battery (supplier is changing it out) BUT, it came with a full charge and started the engine strongly when first fitted.. Can my D3 have developed a fault which is doing for the battery?? Beats the heck out of me, never come across this before.. Thanks for any replies..Make the most of this life, you may not have a Landy or skis in the next one.
2xS3, 1xD1, 3xD2, 2xD3, 2x110, 2x90TDi, 4x90V8, 4x90TD5.
Now: Jetta 2.0 TDi DSG, D3 auto gold.
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12th Dec 2012 8:15 pm
Baben
Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059
Have you checked the alternator?
You should have 14 to 14.5V at the battery when the engine runs
12th Dec 2012 8:25 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
When you get it running again, I suggest you check the voltage at the battery when the engine is running.
This will confirm if the alternator is undercharging. A healthy alternator should be kicking out somewhere in the region of 15 volts when running. A failing alternator can kill a perfectly healthy battery and it's documented here on the forum on a few posts.
Hope you get it sorted quickly but my money is on a failing alternator. Mods:
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12th Dec 2012 8:25 pm
Down&Dirty
Member Since: 17 Aug 2012
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Posts: 1292
Ref your charger you are using,have you put a meter on it? it should be showing more than 12 volts should be more like 13.1 v on trickle and more like 14.5 v on boost,and if you got fast charge should go to roughly 15.1 v.
just a thought
Many thanks for the quick replies. I didn't get a chance to check the alternator output as both batteries had gone dead before I had a chance.. Charger is pretty old but has been reliable but only gives 12 volts.. I have a CTEK on the way.. Looks like an alternator is required. Oh, deep joy,,!Make the most of this life, you may not have a Landy or skis in the next one.
2xS3, 1xD1, 3xD2, 2xD3, 2x110, 2x90TDi, 4x90V8, 4x90TD5.
Now: Jetta 2.0 TDi DSG, D3 auto gold.
That's the wife's toyboy.
Just one point, if the alternator was failing/ failed, shouldn't there have been a dash warning or fault message or just a red light?
It's a base model.Make the most of this life, you may not have a Landy or skis in the next one.
2xS3, 1xD1, 3xD2, 2xD3, 2x110, 2x90TDi, 4x90V8, 4x90TD5.
Now: Jetta 2.0 TDi DSG, D3 auto gold.
That's the wife's toyboy.
12th Dec 2012 9:24 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Some people get a red warning light almost immediately but others report the same symptoms as yourself, little or no warning then WHAM, dead battery.
At this time of year when driving with heated everything, lights on etc. drain will be heavy and possibly more obvious than when it's warmer.
Check to see if your battery warning light illuminates during the start up check.Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
Last edited by Narpy on 12th Dec 2012 9:35 pm. Edited 1 time in total
First sign I got of mine going was the flat battery followed 2 days later by the smell, that circuit board / hot wiring smell, followed by loss of all electricity / power as the car shut down bit by bit over half a mile Altox GSM FBH controller thread
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12th Dec 2012 9:35 pm
westderbysi
Member Since: 04 Feb 2012
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 79
my alternator went last week no warning all ok stopped engine went to start all lights on dash going crazy and turning over really slowly got it going 9.8v from the alternator took the alty off and checked the bushes they were toast so desolded them and put a new set in by the way ford focus bushes £8 quid put back together 15.1v at start up steady 14.2v there after sorted. everything looks brighter now !!
What's the verdict on the dead new battery, will it be scrap or could the awaited CTEK revive it? What does the faulty alternator do to the battery, anyone know..? Don't want to send it back for an exchange when I knackered it by ignorance..
Wesder'; Thanks for that, very encouraging..
Come back silver 90 TD5, all is forgiven!Make the most of this life, you may not have a Landy or skis in the next one.
2xS3, 1xD1, 3xD2, 2xD3, 2x110, 2x90TDi, 4x90V8, 4x90TD5.
Now: Jetta 2.0 TDi DSG, D3 auto gold.
That's the wife's toyboy.
12th Dec 2012 11:14 pm
westderbysi
Member Since: 04 Feb 2012
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 79
two things undercharging normally the battery will be ok and recharge back up but can damage in some cases but only rarely ie buckle a plate
overcharging fries them and there toast overchging battery no one ever talks about this i have seen it in the past
snippit from the web
Battery Heating
Overcharging of the battery by a defective or malfunctioning alternator will result in the battery reaching an overcharged state. When overcharged, the plates inside the battery shed material and lose their capacity to hold electricity. The battery resists further charging, and the excess electrical charge builds up and is radiated as heat. This has the effect of making the entire battery feel warm or hot to the touch after the engine has been running.
Swollen Battery
A battery being overcharged by a faulty alternator will create abnormal amounts of hydrogen gas. If the battery is poorly vented, or is a fully sealed type, this build-up of hydrogen gas can cause the sides or top of the battery to swell outwards, warping the battery's casing.
hope that helps
12th Dec 2012 11:23 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18519
westderbysi wrote:
my alternator went last week no warning all ok stopped engine went to start all lights on dash going crazy and turning over really slowly got it going 9.8v from the alternator took the alty off and checked the bushes they were toast so desolded them and put a new set in by the way ford focus bushes £8 quid put back together 15.1v at start up steady 14.2v there after sorted. everything looks brighter now !!
Any more information on exactly which brushes?06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
13th Dec 2012 12:22 am
westderbysi
Member Since: 04 Feb 2012
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 79
hmmm top secret info this lol
there 5x7x15 brushes on ebay for about 4 quid but there a bit crap but work as good as the good ones but dont last as long if anyone needs one redoing in the liverpool area i will do it free so we can get some pics up mines the v8 petrol but im 99% sure the tdv6 brushes are the same
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18519
Excellent info, thanks 06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
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13th Dec 2012 12:39 am
westderbysi
Member Since: 04 Feb 2012
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 79
no problem
also if you take your alternator off it will have the landrover part number and just below the denso number you can use that to cross reference the bushes
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it should be showing more than 12 volts should be more like 13.1 v on trickle and more like 14.5 v on boost,and if you got fast charge should go to roughly 15.1 v.
