Member Since: 17 Nov 2012
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 1135
I would like to learn some of the basics
4th May 2013 12:37 pm
MARKW
Member Since: 29 Aug 2008
Location: SW
Posts: 2390
A nice idea but there are so many variables it would be impossible to cover them all.
For the first thing I disagree with the way you have connected your hook. I would have and have been taught that the open side of the hook should be down. That way if the flimsy gate failed for whatever reason the hook wouldn't fall out of the shackle.
Others may disagree with what I'm saying.HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE
They shall not grow old as those of us left grow old. Age shall not weary them, nor the years condem. At the going down of the sun, and in the morning WE WILL REMEMBER THEM
4th May 2013 1:15 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I know what you mean about variables but keeping to the basics and warning of the variables that would have a safety impact would be a start for most. Watching people sling a strop over a towball shows that general knowledge of how to do this safely is not a given.
As for techniques, well we all have our teachings and some are up for debate. Hooks are my least favourite item but in some situations they have their uses and 'hooking up' is important.
Click image to enlarge
To stop the 'Luck in a Hook' from pouring out they should be mounted as above and not like the picture below. Should the hook fail under load the correct orientation will see it driven into the ground as it is snatched back, rather than propelled into the air which can be lethal. The throat latch should not take any load.
Click image to enlarge
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 14 Sep 2008
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 1249
Robbie that's some very clean recovery equipment you have , I'd be embarrassed to display mine at the moment it all needs a good wash, including moss growing on my winch rope
4th May 2013 5:31 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I was too ashamed to photograph the outgoing rope, but the straps stay quite clean and didn't need much rinsing (one direction only) to look new again.
I don't do much off-roading in my own vehicle and it mainly comes out to play in the winter. We have friends and family in remote places so the kit is essential but thankfully not called upon often.
I'm sure your wire rope will look fine after some WD40 or light machine oil on a rag.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Started on the article, got the photos and working on the text - takes longer than I thought!
Will edit this post as I add or remove content but open to suggestions, especially as I want to keep this simple enough for the beginner.
Discovery 4 Tow Recovery
1. This topic was prompted by the number of dangerous things I have seen people do when attempting a vehicle recovery. As with many disciplines there are many techniques to achieve the same effect but it is also a subject where there is a considerable amount of misinformation. This article will not attempt to cover everything and is aimed at basic recovery only. For more advanced techniques or use of equipment such as winches and kinetic recovery ropes there is absolutely no substitute for proper lessons at a recognized off-road centre.
Common things I see people doing incorrectly include:
i. Improper selection of equipment, without understanding load ratings and safety margins.
ii. Use of damaged, dirty or badly worn equipment.
iii. Improper use of equipment including using tow-balls, side loading bow-shackles, improper use of wire rope and hooking of straps/cables to themselves without understanding the significant loss of strength.
iv. Unsafe practices such as poor hazard assessment, not keeping the area clear, handling equipment with bare hands and poor communication.
v. Rushing to get it done.
The wrong way – Police D4 towing a bus via the tow ball:
Click image to enlarge
Safety
2. The forces involved in recovering a vehicle can be considerable; in all regards you are using potentially lethal levels of force. The damage caused by incorrect equipment, equipment failure, or improper operation, will kill or maim people – never underestimate the forces involved in what can otherwise appear to be a benign event.
Disco 3 damaged by a strap break:
Tow Recovery Equipment
3. The equipment may seem bewildering to the novice and at the advanced level the complications are genuine. But before diving into straps and ropes don’t forget that tow recovery should only be used when other techniques have failed. A shovel, gloves, torches and a toolkit are essential items to free a vehicle and will be needed to reduce the force required to recover a vehicle. For those deliberately aiming for off-road adventures other items will be needed (eg axe, saw etc).
Load Rating – What Do I Need?
4. [Insert text on rules of thumb, load rating, mire factors, gradient compensation]
5. [Insert text on rigging, choking factors and reduction in strength when joining straps]
6. [Insert text on rated values and safety factors]
Shackles, Straps and Ropes
Click image to enlarge
7. Every single piece of equipment used in a recovery operation, from vehicle to shackle to strap to shackle to vehicle must be capable of safely handling the loads that will be imposed. At all stages ask yourself ‘what if something breaks?’ and minimize the amount of metal that can be flung.
8. There are many types of shackles but in 4x4 circles the most prolific and useful is the rated bow shackle, sometimes known as a screw-pin anchor shackle. These can be used to attach ropes and straps to the front or rear recovery points. The rear recovery point lives under this cover:
Click image to enlarge
The shackle is attached thus:
Click image to enlarge
The shackle can then be used with a strap:
Click image to enlarge
Close up:
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9. [Insert text on plus and minus points of straps]
Or, less desirably, with a rated hook in the correct orientation:
Click image to enlarge
10. [Insert text on plus and minus points of hooks]
But never like this:
Click image to enlarge
Or my personal preference, a recovery rope:
Click image to enlarge
11. [Insert text on plus and minus points of rope]
Storage Of Equipment
12. Having the equipment and actually having it with you when you need it can be two different things. One of the reasons people use straps is that they store quite easily and take up little volume. I keep my straps coiled-up in the cubbies either side of the boot. The equipment must be stored clean and dry and there are special methods to clean straps to avoid ingraining dirt that will cause premature failure. The equipment must not be stored in plastic bags, but bin bags are handy for temporary storage when the kit has been used in wet conditions. If you don’t look after your kit it will turn green in shockingly short time.
Click image to enlarge
13. Ropes and shovels take up more room but for convenience I store mine in a small canvas toolbag, along with the shackles and gloves:
Click image to enlarge
14. The canvas bag is a perfect size for storing under the rearmost seats. I keep it upside down to keep the handles free of the mechanism:
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
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Don’t forget the toolkit I mentioned earlier:
Click image to enlarge
Tow Recovery Driving Technique
15. [Insert text on techniques and what to avoid]Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 1625
The Police D4 is hopefully doing it in accordance with their training and equipment (apart from the kit is probably not rated for a double decker bus!)
Although not sure about the shackle Tony
Club RLD Wheel Protector & Sump Guard
Club 4x4 Info activated
Last edited by ruggedpeak on 4th May 2013 6:42 pm. Edited 1 time in total
4th May 2013 6:39 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73042
What's wrong with hooking straight onto the recovery point?
4th May 2013 6:42 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Ok, I will clarify that bit, but slightly surprised the police would use the tow ball in such a way. When they fail they travel a long way!
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 16 Oct 2011
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 692
I find it crazy the fuss made over using a towbar as a recovery point.
Does Landrover provide ratings for the lashing hooks on the front and rear? Not that I have seen. They are for tying the car down, not even recovery.
The car can tow 3500kg. Even with a braked trailer the forces a towbar is designed to take should exceed anything you can do under a sensible recovery. Yes I have seen vids on Youtube of balls knocked off but they are stupidly ill thought out recoveries with cars accelerating at inappropriate speeds. Recovery is not supposed to be fast. Do some more digging, if a steady pull wont do it don't yank.
The Landrover combination towball and pin is excellent and I have them on both the Freelander and D3 and will happily use them for any sensible recovery usually using the pin.
The tow bar is tested and approved.
4th May 2013 6:56 pm
petersw
Member Since: 17 Nov 2012
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 1135
Excellent Robbie
Have you a recommendation of a simple "starter Kit"
4th May 2013 7:05 pm
ruggedpeak
Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 1625
Robbie wrote:
Ok, I will clarify that bit, but slightly surprised the police would use the tow ball in such a way. When they fail they travel a long way!
Hi Robbie
The Police do on road emergency recoveries where they are moving vehicles short distances on tarmac. With the weight of the vehicle supported by the road and a low friction surface they can safely move vehicles using the towbar. There are not huge forces involved. It's a very different process from trying free 3t of stuck D3!
The towbar is used as AFAIK only LR products have a proper recovery point built in, whereas most other vehicles used as Traffic cars (Shogun, BMW's etc) don't, but they all have towbar fitted for this purpose so the training is standardised. And frankly the D3 recovery point is a bit too fiddly IMHO when you are trying to get a shackle on in freezing rain in lane 3 on a live motorway, working between 2 stationary vehicles.
There is no reason not to use the towbar when pulling vehicles along, but once the forces increase if it's stuck then the recovery point is preferable.Tony
Club RLD Wheel Protector & Sump Guard
Club 4x4 Info activated
Last edited by ruggedpeak on 5th May 2013 11:14 am. Edited 1 time in total
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